Rod knock/spun bearing?
Definitely. I'd expect to pay over $2,000 for the machine work alone to get the block fully rebuilt and ready to use. That's bore, hone, align hone, square deck, cam bearings, heat tank, magnaflux, recondition the rods, cut/polish the crank, balance the rotating assembly, slight mill on the heads, valve job, polish the cam, etc.
That doesn't include gaskets and fluids.
That doesn't include gaskets and fluids.
Also, no one will know the extent of the damage until you tear open the block.
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I'll find out what the deal is when he calls me. This guy owns and works at his own shop, and only has one other mechanic who used to work at GM. So I'm sure they will do a thorough job of checking everything out.
I'm not bashing you it's just you hear that so often.
If you don't want to or don't have the budget for a full rebuild, then my vote is still for picking up a low mileage short block, or a rebuilt one. No use in investing in a high mile motor, that already had a spun bearing and a dead pump...
Wouldnt using the computer give you standard GM procedure to fix it correctly? Im not sure about that is since I never worked for GM. But that would be my guess.
Also he wont know the extent of the problem untill he opens it up.
Also he wont know the extent of the problem untill he opens it up.
Ask him to explain in detail what he plans to do about:
1) Inspecting the damage (what will he be taking off, what will he be looking at, etc.)
2) Machine work done (will he be removing the engine, align hone, reconditioning of rods, cut/polish crank, etc)
3) Warranty?
Like I said, NO one will know the extent of the damage until you get in there, so quoting you $600 dollars to fix "a spun bearing" is insane, and sounds like it will be a ghetto fabulous repair.
1) Inspecting the damage (what will he be taking off, what will he be looking at, etc.)
2) Machine work done (will he be removing the engine, align hone, reconditioning of rods, cut/polish crank, etc)
3) Warranty?
Like I said, NO one will know the extent of the damage until you get in there, so quoting you $600 dollars to fix "a spun bearing" is insane, and sounds like it will be a ghetto fabulous repair.
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Ok, well he hasn't done anything yet. I do remember him saying that for example if it's the crank, he'll have to send it off to a shop and such. I'll be sure to ask him all that, thanks.
Well that is a little more encouraging. But if you pull the crank, cut it, polish it, and add new oversized bearings, that sill leaves the issue of the seating surfaces of the new bearings. New bearings need a line hone and reconditioned rods, which can only be done after the engine has been removed and completely torn down. If that is his plan, then get it done quick, that's a hell of a deal. If not, get a quote for the real job, and then analyze your options.
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Thanks a lot for all of your advice... I'm going to get my car back, and my friend is going to help me do a rebuild ourselves.
It turns out he just wanted to do the band-aid method.
It turns out he just wanted to do the band-aid method.
Just start looking for a good used engine, swap it in and be done with it! Then sell the parts off your to get some money back.
holy crap! you just dodged a bullit bro! Where r u at? I know of a perfect 13,000 mile lt1 for 1000 bucks right now. It was pulled from a 1996 ss just to have a forged 355 with a blower put in. The engine is in a bag in a crate and sitting at a local speed shop (RMCR) here in colorado springs. That would definately be the way to go. That engine and freight would be far less than the rebuild of yours, and 13k miles is insane! I would buy it for my s15 gmc jimmy if i had the money.
holy crap! you just dodged a bullit bro! Where r u at? I know of a perfect 13,000 mile lt1 for 1000 bucks right now. It was pulled from a 1996 ss just to have a forged 355 with a blower put in. The engine is in a bag in a crate and sitting at a local speed shop (RMCR) here in colorado springs. That would definately be the way to go. That engine and freight would be far less than the rebuild of yours, and 13k miles is insane! I would buy it for my s15 gmc jimmy if i had the money.
I did the exact same thing 3 months ago, spun a bearing doing some racing. Came up on a crazy deal. I found a no mile crate engine LT1 that some guy had sitting in his garage for 4 years. Picked it up for $700.

Good luck with the transplant of a new engine. Might as well beef it up a little before you put it in.


