BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

Yea, I thought about the balancer and flex plate after I posted that up. Not sure if they'll let you customize your kit. They have a kit for LT1's but it doesn't have forged anything...and thats a must for my combo. And I believe our engines are internally ballanced...correct?

Next question.

Ok, so I've figured out what crank, rods, and pistons I can use. What style balancer and flex plate will I need?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Depends on internally balanced/externally balanced rotating assembly. I have heard good things about ATI balancers. Don't know which one is best suited for you though, and I have no idea about what brand/type flexplate other than if it's neutally balanced or not. I don't mess with dem autos.

DVS LT1

You can get some pretty nice and affordable stroker kits out there. Eagle makes a popular kit with a 4340 forged 1-piece 3.75" crank, 4340 forged H-beam rods (already "stroker clearanced"), and whatever type pistons you want. I went with SRP's inverted dome pistons to achieve the compression I was after. Looking back I probably should have gone with a JE set (same company) as the forged metal is a bit tougher. My SRP's are forged also but intended for "mild" supercharged, turbo, or nitrous applications (still trying to figure out what that means).

I had dreamnt for billet Oliver rods and an exotic Cola or Callies Racemaster crank, but really I wasn't building a race car so there's no point. Actually I think now that the piston is the most important part (weakest possible link) in a motor. There's no way you are going to snap a cast iron crank before shattering a piston. I ended up getting a very nice 4340 Callies crank. It was their budget compstar (off shore forging) series which meh I heard some questions about... also went with their 6.0" 4340 Compstar H-beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts. Along with the SRP pistons the rotating assembly was internaly balanced and I think I paid something like $1500 for the entire setup (maybe a bit more - $1750? - it worked out to be a few hundred bucks more than a similar kit from Eagle). My engine builder had been preaching to me about a nice set of Oliver rods yada yada but he was very suprised when he saw those Compstar rods.

Funny but the rods had to be clearanced juuust a bit more for my block. One thing I've been told and learned since rebuilding my engine is that specs from manufacturer's don't mean squat. The tolerances and specs on some items can bo so far off what a dealer book says that its literally impossible to just order "LT1" stroker parts from a book and slap them all together.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

you won't want to go external IMO, any kit you buy that comes with such most likely won't clear the optispark from what I've been told

you'll want to get a balanced internal RA, you'll reuse the stock DAMPENER and just take the weight off of the stock flexplate

ls2pontiac

iTrader: (1)

Get a Compstar rotating assembly they are only 700 $ more than the eagle ones and supposed to be much better. i hope they are as thats what i got.

DVS LT1

For whatever reason at the time I purchased my compstar crank and rods (2 years ago?) they were a great new product for the LT1. I heard the LS1 parts (which I assume would only be the crank right, as the rods could work on any setup...) were not that popular yet. Most people say it is a step up from Eagle, which by its own right is probably a totally fine product for most if not all street applications; I had my eyes on the dragonslayer crank from callies or even the racemaster (all lighter) but the compstar was pretty well engineered and like I said those 6" H-beam rods were sweet. I've got some pics I will share later if anyone cares???

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Only $700 more

Rrrrrrright Toss some of that "pocket change" my way please!

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Cast Eagle smallblock crank is rated to 600hp while the forged eagle crank is rated to 1,000hp. Scat cast crank is rated at 500hp for smallblocks and forged is 900. Just those two brands cover pretty much all but the most unique race builds. I would only start looking into higher end stuff when runnign a lot of nitrous or boost - forged eagle parts are PLENTY for any all motor LT1 that you can dream up, and for an NA street engine rebuild on a budget Scat will get the job done.

ALL cranks should be checked and balanced before use, no matter what the label on them says. Scat and Eagle brands may cost you a bit more in machining and balancing, so factor in a bit of headroom into their costs.

IMO quality rod bolts like ARPs should always be used no matter what crank you are running. They are the most stressed fastner in an engine, and even if you don't go for the the huge L19 rod bolts(overkill for most builds) the ARP replacements have a higher tensile strength then what you would get in OEM style parts or lower end aftermarket.