cast crank/hp?
cast crank/hp? ok im sure this has been answered, and i have been looking around to see power people have made.
im thinking of doing a 355 cast crank, not sure on rods yet, and forged piston's so i can spray it. my question is how much power are you guys making on a cast crank?
at wont point do they go south?
im thinking of doing a 355 cast crank, not sure on rods yet, and forged piston's so i can spray it. my question is how much power are you guys making on a cast crank?
at wont point do they go south?
ok im sure this has been answered, and i have been looking around to see power people have made.
im thinking of doing a 355 cast crank, not sure on rods yet, and forged piston's so i can spray it. my question is how much power are you guys making on a cast crank?
at wont point do they go south?
im thinking of doing a 355 cast crank, not sure on rods yet, and forged piston's so i can spray it. my question is how much power are you guys making on a cast crank?
at wont point do they go south?
If staying with stockish displacement then use the stock crank, much better piece IMO than aftermarket castings. If you have to use one then I would guess about 600 or so fwhp would be pushing it. That said, I've never seen one break.
Yeah the stock crank is MUCH better than the chinese aftermarket cast cranks, I would honestly comepare it more to the $450 forged chinese stuff.
I do not recall any examples of anyone breaking the stock crank by overpowering it, seen them broken but always as a result of a piston or rod going first.
I do not recall any examples of anyone breaking the stock crank by overpowering it, seen them broken but always as a result of a piston or rod going first.
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I'm wondering a similar thing with my build. Parts I already have are a Scat 9000 3.75 crank and forged 4.040 pistons with Scat 5.7" Pro I-beams. Now that I plan on building about 12.3-12.5 CR E85 motor with either my LE3 heads or ported 21* TrickFlows, I was wondering if the crank would be safe. I plan on keeping the RPM's under 6600. Any opinions?
The stock crank can handle 7000rpm and alot of ponies like around 700 as stated in a previous post. It's a good solid piece. It's neat to say you have a forged crank and if you can afford it why not but it's not necessary unless you're pushing past the numbers stated above.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 145
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From: Dayton TX AKA hicktown
Yea in my many years I have never heard of a small block crank breaking. I have built a few 302 sbf's using the factory crank and have split many blocks down the middle never a crank failure. About 4 years ago we had a 87 roller motor SBC factory crank with 4340 I beam rods and Manley 12.5 forged pistons spraying a 250 shot car ran low 9's on gas. We ran it lean and blew the top off a piston destroying the block, head, and rod. When we removed the crank found no damage I even Magged the crank (dry mag) then Wet fluorescent magged the crank found no damage what so ever. This crank is still out there it's in his truck now just a factory rebuild nothing special. I wish to hell we had some dyno #'s on that engine amazing how nice those cranks are from the factory. I would love to see how much these hp these cranks can handle.
TECH Senior Member
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Unless you're talking in the 6,700 range, then that's pretty nice!Modern cranks are quite impressive. Like LM97Z said, you'd be surprised at what they can handle, not just in our LT or LS engines. Lingenfelter did 1100hp, boosted, on a 75% stock shortblock ECOtec! Pistons and rods were upgraded, but the crank and block among other tidbits were stock. I'm sadly having trouble finding the articles on it, as the search results are being flooded by the TT C5 making 1100-1300hp that he also built :\ I did find this vid of some of the runs it made.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhdGRJtVWIg
Anyways, you'll be more than fine with what you plan on throwing at it
TECH Enthusiast
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Seeing as our stock motors can safely do around 6,250rpm on a regular basis, you have nothing to worry about Unless you're talking in the 6,700 range, then that's pretty nice!
Modern cranks are quite impressive. Like LM97Z said, you'd be surprised at what they can handle, not just in our LT or LS engines. Lingenfelter did 1100hp, boosted, on a 75% stock shortblock ECOtec! Pistons and rods were upgraded, but the crank and block among other tidbits were stock. I'm sadly having trouble finding the articles on it, as the search results are being flooded by the TT C5 making 1100-1300hp that he also built :\ I did find this vid of some of the runs it made.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhdGRJtVWIg
Anyways, you'll be more than fine with what you plan on throwing at it
Unless you're talking in the 6,700 range, then that's pretty nice!Modern cranks are quite impressive. Like LM97Z said, you'd be surprised at what they can handle, not just in our LT or LS engines. Lingenfelter did 1100hp, boosted, on a 75% stock shortblock ECOtec! Pistons and rods were upgraded, but the crank and block among other tidbits were stock. I'm sadly having trouble finding the articles on it, as the search results are being flooded by the TT C5 making 1100-1300hp that he also built :\ I did find this vid of some of the runs it made.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhdGRJtVWIg
Anyways, you'll be more than fine with what you plan on throwing at it
Last edited by aboatguy; Mar 1, 2009 at 07:56 AM.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
what about this crank?
the reason im asking is b/c my original crankshaft in my project car, had 4 spun rod bearings, and the guy was still driving it! i really doubt that it can be turned.
if it can be turned then i use the factory, but im not holding my breath. it looks bad.
what about this crank?
the reason im asking is b/c my original crankshaft in my project car, had 4 spun rod bearings, and the guy was still driving it! i really doubt that it can be turned.
if it can be turned then i use the factory, but im not holding my breath. it looks bad.
They are over 50lbs, I would try and find one local first just because of the shipping costs.
The LT1 uses the same casting as other one piece rear main smallblocks but the balance is a little different, sounds like you are replacing more than just the crank through so you will be rebalancing anyway.
The LT1 uses the same casting as other one piece rear main smallblocks but the balance is a little different, sounds like you are replacing more than just the crank through so you will be rebalancing anyway.
