94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Ok so I pulled off all of my egr crap and the air thingy, loL! So what do I do with the sensor that that has the vacum lines attached to it, remove it as well?????So do I just cap off the nipples on the intake or what? Pictures would be great in an exact delete of the clutter, thanks

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

If you mean the vacuum switch that is at the back of the intake manifold, then yes, unplug it from the wire harness and hoses and toss it. Make sure you do cap the vacuum lines that went to it also. i think when I removed mine I was able to reroute them somewhat and eliminate a T that was in one of them so there was no need for a cap. I think doing this may set off a CEL unless you have it removed from the tune. All the airpump stuff from the front of the motor can be removed and unplugged also. Make sure you cap the hole in the intake tube also.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

With deleting the AIR pump, you won't need to worry about an SES on your OBDI. Just make sure you have a good fuse in the system and it will be fine.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

So I have all of the air pump injection stuff removed, I have race style headers that don't thavethe option of EGR, I pulled all the metal hose crap off from the air pump, All I have left is the vacuum lines. Their's like waht 3 or 4 that hook up to the intake, plug all of those of and get rid up the sensor's and I should be good? Well of course the block off plates on the back of the intake are already taken care of with and ebay special! What about this fuse thing, Just up the fuse in it or what?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Leave the fuse in and call it a day. There aren't that many lines that plug into the intake for the EGR, so just be careful as to what you disconnect.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

There are 3 vacuum lines on the intake from what I disconnected, is this right? I'm thinking one came off of my fuel pressure regulator does this seem right? It was 2 weeks ago I did this so hmmmm! May have to look into the components behind the intake so I make sure I have the right stuff disco'd.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

you should have 2 vac lines on the passenger side that need to be connected still, like you said to the FP regulator and the evap switch I believe. the driver sides has a couple different sized ones, PVC also so make sure you don't leave the bigger ones unhooked. I believe the small one on that side is what goes to your EGR valve which you can now cap off. If you have a 94 car with OBD1 you won't have any issues on the air pump stuff don't need to do anything besides unplug and remove it.

saylorZ28

iTrader: (6)

is not one of them for the hvac controls

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

I stand corrected... yes 1 of the ones on the pass side is for ^^^^^

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

I have one line coming directly out of my factory wiring harness on the passenger side, yes this is a vacuum line of some sort just coming right out of the wiring harness bundle, I have no clue what it is to, on the driver side I had one off the EGR valve bull crap on the back. I know one is for the brake booster and the PCV valve but th e other sthrough me for a loop. Hell one is suppost to plucg into the throttle body. I don't have to have this do I even though I have throttle body be bypass???? I don't have the intake back on yet but It wouls sure be nice to know exactly what them lines are for!

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

the vac line going to the wire harness is for the AC/heat controls, needs to be attached to the manifold on the pass side. The driver side should have the PCV, brake booster, and the other one I believe is for the EGR only, so you should be able to cap that one or use it to do a vented Opti harness conversion. The lines that go to your TB should be for Evap and they come from the harness which has the fuel lines inside them. They should be attached still unless you are deleting the Evap system as a whole.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Well how will the car respond with the whole EVAP system pulled. I read that this portion is somewhere by the wheel well, is this correct? Just trying to clear up this clutter and also want my car to work properly as well, lol! So by the time I'm done I should only have the PCV and brake booster on the driver side. I should be able to do away with the EGR valve on the back of the intake and the EGR solenoid all together. That is the plug harness on the driver side rear. On the passenger side it is the EVAP solenoid that has been throwing me. I'm thinking of pulling all of this crap off. How does this vented optispark conversion work???? What will I gain or benifit from doing this conversion???

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

In my experience with my deletes, even after 'tuning out' my EGR, I had to leave the EGR solenoid plugged into the harness. Maybe it's a 93 thing, maybe not, but as soon as I unplugged the solenoid I got an SES. Turned the car off, plugged back in, problem solved. So I just capped off all vacuum lines for it (even the EGR for good measures heh) and let'r rip! While it's sadly gone back to how it was, after I deleted the AIR stuff my car idled like a brand new 4-6cyl. It was very odd... But alas, it's back to it's slight stutter at idle heh Oh well, if I wanted a smooth idle I'd have bought the V6 right? We're 8's, we have quirks we know will need to be put up with at some point in time. Like the ability to smoke almost anything on the road

There's been threads dealing in !EVAP, and it can be done, but I think that just hiding the canister and accompanying solenoid/wires is a better idea.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Right on thanks for the advice guys. I'll give er hell!