chevydriverz28

I am gonna run a meziere electric water pump with a two and a half time thicker be cool radiator. I am very worried about fitting both of these and the stock fan in the cramped space of my 96 SS. Has anyone ever tried to fit this in or do what I'd like, vertically mount the radiator and ac condensor. Picks of your setups or any links to similar threads would be great.

Thanks in advance,
Brandon

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Why do you need such a heavy duty radiator. The stock radiator with reprogrammed fan controls is more than sufficient enough for cooling needs.

chevydriverz28

I already had the radiator, and the motor I'm putting in the car already has the block modification done and the electric water pump installed. The primary reason I want to run so much cooling support is because the motor has block fill lining the water passages and one sleeve. Between the two of these I fear cooling issues with the stock equipment. Please let me know if you think the stock radiator will work fine under these conditions. It would be SOOOO much less complicated.

Thanks,
Brandon

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Well you could modify the radiator cover and make it stand up a little more. And I would like to get a bigger radiator for my car since it heats up a little when cruising through town, but they are so damn expensive

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

subscribed.
I also have a becool and will be adding a ewp this spring.

MadMike 97 Z28

iTrader: (3)

I don't have any experience with a filled block, but I would just try the stock radiator with fans set to kick on early. I would be suprised if it wasn't enough.

please don't be like everyone else on this forum and assume that a 160 thermostat, electric waterpump, or big radiator is the only cure for a car that runs warm! (most of the time people don't even realize that it is normal for the car to run over 210 degrees at times.)

THINK! If you have a 180 thermostat it is open @ 180+ right? A radiator radiates heat right? So if the coolant is circulating once the engine is above 180, but the temp continues to rise in stop and go trafic then it is an AIR FLOW ISSUE! The radiator is useless without air flow across the core. You can have any thermostat you want and if you have no air flow its only going to circulate hot coolant no matter when its set to kick open. Now, it is possible for the radiator thermostat, or water pump to fail but 90% of the time its an air flow issue.

I only have a manual fan switch and if I leave it on the temp will never rise above 180 no matter how hot it is or how much traffic im in.

please make sure you actually need an oversize radiator before you pay a fortune for one.

Kmaroman

iTrader: (1)

I tryed telling my friend that, but he went ahead an bought an all aluminum one for like 4-500 bucks.

monster81

x1 on the air flow issue

nik1703

seems pointless... the stock radiator is more then enough to keep the engine cool under any circumstances...

have you actually taken it out? its HUGE.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Good job, way to respond like a dick. I'm not stupid I realize that if there is no airflow then the car will heat up. He was stating that he already has the radiator and I stated that I was thinking about getting one but they are expensive. I'm also wiring up a manual fan switch, but haven't got to that project yet.

So thank you for stating the obvious, we all appreciate it

chevydriverz28

Thanks for all the inputs... Sorry if I started some kind of eastcoast/westcoast beef LOL. To clear things up a bit. Last year after I purchased the car I did a fluids flush and noticed the former owner basically ran straight WATER so I was swimming in rust city. Since I didn't know how long the damage had been going on, I wanted to replace it. My mantality has always been brake it and build it better. There's no better way to avoid rusting up a radiator again than to buy an aluminum one .

What I really want to know is has anyone done mount that brings the radiator and ac condensor further away.

FYI: im needing the room for boost pipe in my supercharged front mount intercooler setup.

Thanks again for any inputs,
Brandon

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

You can trim your front radiator support out and mount the radiator straight up and down, but you may need a different radiator then because of the angle of the filler neck. Do a search on here (if it works) and you should find a few pics. There are a few guys that have done it and mounted a turbo by the balancer, so you should have plenty of room to run some piping. I was going to stand the radiator straight up to clean up the engine bay, but I don't have the cash for a new rad so I'll hold off for a bit.

Good luck

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Stock cooling setup with reprogrammed fans are fine for even a half filled LT1 block.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Just what I was thinking.

LOVE your sig pic dude!
If only you could get something similar with a 9" and draglites w/ MT slicks visible.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

My mantality has always been brake it and build it better...


WOW you just made a whole new word there... and it totally fits...

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Lol, thanks. The car will be getting a 12bolt once this rear (finally) goes out in a blaze of glory . Till then I'll run it like a rental - they are only like 50 bucks for a complete rear down at the local junk yards .

The diff cover has never been off, and it has seen low 1.6 60's . Stalled autos are babies on the rear ends compared to sticks, but it really is just a matter of luck...some last, some don't.

I figure as long as its not making any crazy noises or leaking yet I might as well enjoy the extra rwhp from the tiny 7.5" .