edelbrock intake...worth it?
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
For people who say they're on a budget but want decent HP, I can't help but recommend Speed Inc's Cadillac Cam, since it put down to the WHEELS 315hp on a car with only a CAI and Catback exhaust (meaning factory manifolds), NO tune. Did 325hp with a tune. It'll take you all the bolt ons to get there with an M6, and you'll be shy of it with an A4. If I ever get the time and money, I'm skipping bolt ons and going right for that cam 
Don't bother with a throttle body till you make over 400hp, and unless you can get the Air Foil for $10-15, don't bother with it either
If you don't want to tear into your motor, the 3 best mods would be a quality CAI (better elbow might help a bit, but isn't required), a good catback and long tube headers. Mid tubes at the least, but skip shorties. If you have to dig down to do work on the Opti or Waterpump, my suggestion is this: Get a new Delco Opti (either from thepartsladi on eBay or a dealer), and if you don't have a 95-97 and have the option to get it w/o a cap and rotor, pick up MSD's since it'll give you vented then. That's if you're replacing the water pump. If you're replacing the Opti, still do what I suggested above, but also do yourself a favor by replacing the water pump. Opti hates water, water pump is right on top of the Opti, pump goes bad and it pisses over your new Opti
If you really can't afford to do all that at once, maybe save up, or at the very least do the MSD cap and rotor and then drill and tap the weep holes on the pump and thread in barbed fittings. Then run some vacuum tube from those fittings down under the car, so if it does go you'll still see coolant BUT it won't be leaking on your Opti!
EDIT: hah took me long enough to type that new posts were made! No problem on that article, but realistically the Airgap isn't meant for near-stock/mild motors, so who knows how it's do on a wild LT1. First thing to go? Hmm not sure actually heh Since most people don't want to do the general Cap and Rotor change interval for an LT1, it's put off as long as possible. So I'd say a tune up down to the Opti would be the best start. If you have a Vette, you'll have to dig down that deep ANYWAYS just to do the damn plug wires heh If you have an F-Body though, you can get them from under the car (a hoist would work best).

Don't bother with a throttle body till you make over 400hp, and unless you can get the Air Foil for $10-15, don't bother with it either
If you don't want to tear into your motor, the 3 best mods would be a quality CAI (better elbow might help a bit, but isn't required), a good catback and long tube headers. Mid tubes at the least, but skip shorties. If you have to dig down to do work on the Opti or Waterpump, my suggestion is this: Get a new Delco Opti (either from thepartsladi on eBay or a dealer), and if you don't have a 95-97 and have the option to get it w/o a cap and rotor, pick up MSD's since it'll give you vented then. That's if you're replacing the water pump. If you're replacing the Opti, still do what I suggested above, but also do yourself a favor by replacing the water pump. Opti hates water, water pump is right on top of the Opti, pump goes bad and it pisses over your new Opti
If you really can't afford to do all that at once, maybe save up, or at the very least do the MSD cap and rotor and then drill and tap the weep holes on the pump and thread in barbed fittings. Then run some vacuum tube from those fittings down under the car, so if it does go you'll still see coolant BUT it won't be leaking on your Opti!EDIT: hah took me long enough to type that new posts were made! No problem on that article, but realistically the Airgap isn't meant for near-stock/mild motors, so who knows how it's do on a wild LT1. First thing to go? Hmm not sure actually heh Since most people don't want to do the general Cap and Rotor change interval for an LT1, it's put off as long as possible. So I'd say a tune up down to the Opti would be the best start. If you have a Vette, you'll have to dig down that deep ANYWAYS just to do the damn plug wires heh If you have an F-Body though, you can get them from under the car (a hoist would work best).
any suggestions as to which one? i just want a little more rump out the exhaust and more power...like i said, not rediculous power (yet), just some exra hp...and with a cam comes lifters, pushrods and rocker arms also? ive heard that the stock rockers arent that bad, but im sure theres better, any suggestions? thanks again
Some hi mile lt1's have been know to lose bearings when the heads and intake come off. not real common but it has happened. happened to me.
but i went 383 with real lt4 heads and intake.
but i went 383 with real lt4 heads and intake.
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any suggestions as to which one? i just want a little more rump out the exhaust and more power...like i said, not rediculous power (yet), just some exra hp...and with a cam comes lifters, pushrods and rocker arms also? ive heard that the stock rockers arent that bad, but im sure theres better, any suggestions? thanks again
good suggestion on the vacume lines to move the coolant away from the opti...as far as headers go, Ive seen good things from hooker, am i right? is there a better brand for LT1's? thanks again for the input
Depending on your budget and when you are looking to get headers installed, you could wait for the new LPP's to come out, they are stainless steel, similar to KOOKs. That will be the best headers you can get for the money. Otherwise, using Hooker or Pacesetter will be fine, get them ceramic coated.
You have an A4 so first things first, you will prolly want a stall and either a shift kit/computer tune/or rebuilt tranny. After that I would say invest in a CAI (K&N, SLP, or Moroso) then get into headers, ORY, catback, E-waterpump, Roller rockers, and the like.
Main things to watch out for are the waterpump peeing on the distributor, the ICM, leaky intake manifold, and basic tune up stuff. If you are going to go with a cam I would wait until you're budget can afford you a good cam (CC306 or so) and at that time do all the valvetrain components.
Full-bolt-on's should net you around 280ish rwhp on an auto, and from there a good cam with all the trimmings would be around 350-360.
Main things to watch out for are the waterpump peeing on the distributor, the ICM, leaky intake manifold, and basic tune up stuff. If you are going to go with a cam I would wait until you're budget can afford you a good cam (CC306 or so) and at that time do all the valvetrain components.
Full-bolt-on's should net you around 280ish rwhp on an auto, and from there a good cam with all the trimmings would be around 350-360.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Later I did have an H Pipe install though. Sounded better 
And I'm pretty sure there are F-Body true dual kits.
one more very important question...what octane gas is best? here in hawaii we got 92...i know the compressions at 10.3 to 1 or so...i dont know if 92 is necessary, especially at almost 4$ a gallon...but its either 87 89 or 92...thanks
or should i go with a cat-back setup and go with flowmaster super 44's?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn7sGQ9ppOE i know it wouldnt sound exactly the same as that, but i think the 44's sound more beastly than the 80 series...btw what am i looking at for price wise with a cat-back setup with 44's? and is there different options like going with true duals with a h-pipe? thanks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn7sGQ9ppOE i know it wouldnt sound exactly the same as that, but i think the 44's sound more beastly than the 80 series...btw what am i looking at for price wise with a cat-back setup with 44's? and is there different options like going with true duals with a h-pipe? thanks






