edelbrock intake...worth it?

Don't bother with a throttle body till you make over 400hp, and unless you can get the Air Foil for $10-15, don't bother with it either
If you don't want to tear into your motor, the 3 best mods would be a quality CAI (better elbow might help a bit, but isn't required), a good catback and long tube headers. Mid tubes at the least, but skip shorties. If you have to dig down to do work on the Opti or Waterpump, my suggestion is this: Get a new Delco Opti (either from thepartsladi on eBay or a dealer), and if you don't have a 95-97 and have the option to get it w/o a cap and rotor, pick up MSD's since it'll give you vented then. That's if you're replacing the water pump. If you're replacing the Opti, still do what I suggested above, but also do yourself a favor by replacing the water pump. Opti hates water, water pump is right on top of the Opti, pump goes bad and it pisses over your new Opti
If you really can't afford to do all that at once, maybe save up, or at the very least do the MSD cap and rotor and then drill and tap the weep holes on the pump and thread in barbed fittings. Then run some vacuum tube from those fittings down under the car, so if it does go you'll still see coolant BUT it won't be leaking on your Opti!EDIT: hah took me long enough to type that new posts were made! No problem on that article, but realistically the Airgap isn't meant for near-stock/mild motors, so who knows how it's do on a wild LT1. First thing to go? Hmm not sure actually heh Since most people don't want to do the general Cap and Rotor change interval for an LT1, it's put off as long as possible. So I'd say a tune up down to the Opti would be the best start. If you have a Vette, you'll have to dig down that deep ANYWAYS just to do the damn plug wires heh If you have an F-Body though, you can get them from under the car (a hoist would work best).
but i went 383 with real lt4 heads and intake.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Main things to watch out for are the waterpump peeing on the distributor, the ICM, leaky intake manifold, and basic tune up stuff. If you are going to go with a cam I would wait until you're budget can afford you a good cam (CC306 or so) and at that time do all the valvetrain components.
Full-bolt-on's should net you around 280ish rwhp on an auto, and from there a good cam with all the trimmings would be around 350-360.
Later I did have an H Pipe install though. Sounded better 
And I'm pretty sure there are F-Body true dual kits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn7sGQ9ppOE i know it wouldnt sound exactly the same as that, but i think the 44's sound more beastly than the 80 series...btw what am i looking at for price wise with a cat-back setup with 44's? and is there different options like going with true duals with a h-pipe? thanks






