Some background info:

Bottom line up front. I am shooting for low 11 sec timeslips, 120 MPH traps and over 400 RWHP. I have mods and car set up in sig.

Just before I was deployed, I was in the process of installing a heads and cam kit on my stock shortblock 1996 Z28 when the hub bolt broke off in the crank. So now I am in need of a new bottom end. I did not have the time to fix this before I stepped on the plane.

Now that I am over here I am putting away some cash for a new bottom end when I get back. I plan to use the LE heads on the new motor wether it be 383 or 350/355.

I have a custom cam that was done for me to do those goals on a stock bottom end. I do have a fresh set of nice flowing LE heads/intake that are bolted on my engine now. I have all supporting mods covered. I do planning on buying some more odds and ends while I am overhere such as tubular K member, Racetronix fuel pump ect., but first I need to know which route to take.

I am having a hard time deciding on what to do for a bottom end. Here is what I am looking at:

1. Stock short/longblock from GM, maybe a 4-bolt version. I figure I could go this route and have a fresh engine that performs and have cash left over for a paintjob (it could use one). I just wonder how long one of these would last spinning it to meet my goals...

2. 355. Take my bottom end, source another stock crank and put it back together with some good pistons and drill it for 4-bolt mains. I could use my current set up with no changes.


3. Forged 383. Since I am going to need a new crank anyway, 383 is appealing, just costs more. Then I would also need to get another cam ground to get max performance. More expensive as well, but I could spin it and throw about anything at it and feel safe and the extra torque would be nice.


Any other sugestions are welcome. I wanted to hear from guys who have had past experiences with this and can offer me some hindsight. I figure I can spend about $5-6K in that ball park. I do not get back stateside to December so I got time to buy stuff.


After deciding on option 3. a 383, I have a few questions.

It was reccomended that a lightweight rotating assembly be used... I want to use compstar stuff. How much lighter are we talking? Have any comparisons or part numbers for rotating kits? Are these lightweight kits alot more exspensive?

One more question.... Cooks Performance Engines has a hell of a price on thier 383 shortblocks. Thier Compstar bottom end is the cheapest I have found and they have free shipping! I hope thier sale lasts till the end of the year lol

Anyone have experience with Cooks and thier engines?

Thanks again,
Jeff

 

4bolt and splayed aren't necessary depending on your intentions
(friend had a 2bolt 6" rod supercharged 383 making 528 rwhp and no problems)[no it's not huge hp, but it was reliable and quick]

383 will give you a little torque which is always good

after doing my 396 I'd never do a 355 ... but that's just me

 

What shortblock are you looking at from Cooks? Jacob cook is a great builder. I got mine 4 bolt CPE Racer for around 2800 bucks. I already had the heads and cam from the old motor so really it wasnt super expensive. Runs great! I dont have any dyno #s but it definitely has some serious sack. I also get 20-22 mpg with the cruise on. I'd highly recommend Cooks though if your going the 383 route.

 

I was going to go with the CPE Dominator 383. I like that it has the Compstar guts.

LT1 Forever- How long did it take you to get your engine from CPE? Did you assemble it yourself? Is he local to you? I was thinking of having my heads and stuff sent to him for assembly and to set the valvetrain up and degree in the cam ect and getting it back as a longblock.

I know its not nessasary but I think if I built it stout with high quality stuff, I can throw whatever I wanted to at it later on and not outgrow it unless I go forced induction.

 

Unless you want to run a cam that will want to be spun beyond the limits of the stock rotating assembly, or a lot spray, I would put a little more effort into removing the bolt from the crank snout. It can be done.

You could save your money and fix up the car, paint job etc.

 

^^^I agree, many crank bolts have broken on Lt1s. If the search function was working I'd tell you to search for the solution. I would drill it and use easy outs with a lot of PB Blaster.

 

We tried and tried to get the bolt out. Its in there. Broke drill bits and easy outs trying to get it out. I have given up on it and going the 383 route. I will have the money and am going to treat myself to somthing nice when I am back. An engine will be it.

 

I live in Southeas Iowa. It was about a 3 week wait just because their a fairly busy place. But I got a call every week giving me an update on the build status. Cooks is a very knowledgable company and very professional. As for having the rest of the motor assembled, I actually had a place called Mid America Racing assemble the motor. The Dominator would be a great choice as well.