Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

I know this has been beat to deth a million times but I wanna know what you guys think.

will I have to raise the motor? never done it before so how to and is there anything I should be carefull about? i don't wanna have a motor mount I cant put bak in...

will I have to do something with the steering linkage? how do I do that?

Ppl please don't say search, I already did, thats y Im posting this thing. I just wanna know what I have to watch out for.

Theyre Pacesetter Long Tubes w/ emmissions..

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

PB blaster all of the bolts that need to come out otherwise you might be in for a world of hurt trying to drill out rusted studs. For LT's you will have to raise the engine for install, remove part of the steering knuckle, and remove the starter for more clearance. It's not bad (I've done it twice now) just get in there and take out anything that's in your way.

jrock692

iTrader: (4)

Just done it a week or so ago on my 95z. With pacesetters too. FUN!!!! I did not move the motor at all, but I did have to get the car off the ground like 16 inches or so. If you had access to a lift omg that would be awsome. Anyway, yes make sure the tires are straight and the steering wheel straight and remove the steering linkage. One bolt on top peice and one on the bottom. Remove both completly as it will not come off if they are not out all the way. That is pretty much it for the driver side then the other side, you will have to remove the alternator and the starter. And this is where the height of the car helps, cause the headers have to come in from the bottom, and to get them to go the car has to be up to get the angle enough to get it in. Get to this point and you will see what I am talking about. And as mentioned before, pb blaster that succka! And get band aids for your hands! lol

O yea and you have to remove the dipstick tube. And on the passenger side you have the egr tube that runs from the back of your intake mani to the stock exhaust manifold, and once you get the manifold loose, it will not come out till you get this off. There is one bolt that holds it to the manifold and you really cant get to it, so enjoy. lol

Good luck

creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

Just did a set of LPP copies on my LT1...fun as well. PB Blaster the night before...drive it even and let the heat soak in and then soak em again the morning you plan on doing the install and it WILL make life easier. I snapped no bolts into the head and only lost 2 on the stock manifold collector...but they were garbage at that point anyway as I was replacing them. I didn't have to remove my alternator, but x2 on the starter, steering link, and oil dipstick tube (also fun to remove and get back in...could use a second person on that honestly to make life easier).

I had to trim my K-member some for two of the primaries. You may not have to on Pacesetters though. If you have the oil cooler that runs lines from the radiator/water pump to the filter housing extension, you will probably have to remove that completely as well and eliminate it. In my case, the oil filter would not go back in without it removed and it was also in the way some for install of the headers...could have gotten a better angle maybe without it being there. Replace motor mounts while in there if you can. Also try and get the heat sleeves for the spark plug wires as it is easier to keep them from getting burned that way. Lastly, expect for it to take 3 times longer than you allot time for :-p

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Be advised that many cars are different. While some people need to jack the motor, trim the k-member, remove the oil filter, etc., some people do not. You should be prepared if you have to.

I did not have to jack the motor or trim the k-member for my Jet Hot install.

caldercay

As Joe said, all cars, even the same year model/type will have some quirks
and the headers too. For my Kooks, just for ease of install, I jacked the
engine up on both sides as required - I also changed out the motor mounts.
For the Kooks, I did zero modifications.

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

Ive never even touched the motor mounts let alone raised the engine. so how do I do it and whats the safest way? is having trouble putting the bolts back into the mounts a common problem?

also how do I remove the dipstick tube? Should I be prepared for oil coming out? I got about 5 qts if I remember right.

jeez, i sound like such a noob. lol...

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

i would highly recommend replacing the motor mounts. it will only help clearances.

the dipstick tube mounts to one stud on the manifold. it "pulls" out after that. i would replace it personally.

lining up the motor mounts can be tough, just have to pry the motor till it is close and get the bolt in. sometimes a hammer can help get it through when its lined up. each side has one bolt and one nut to secure the mounts to the k-member. the mounts themselves are three bolts to the block if i remember correctly.

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

what do you mean by "pry the engine"? and which bolts do I remove to raise the engine?

caldercay

Browse around in here and see if there is anything useful:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.cay

caldercay

You'll want to use a floor jack, with wood on top of the jack's platter and
under the oil pan and "tip" the engine on either side of the oil pan. Raise
the engine very slightly after you've removed the engine mount's "through
bolt" - that single bolt that runs (er, points) from the front to the rear of
the car. Once the tension is removed, that bolt will slide right out.

CAMJAG

iTrader: (34)

Do you need O2 extensions when you put headers on or no?

Even if it is OBD 1 or OBD 2?

caldercay

I had to buy O2 extensions. And yes, I had to use them, because for the
Kooks, the O2 bung is much further down the exhaust stream. You should
call your manufacturer to see if they require the extensions.

creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

Single wire O2? if it is single, can't you just splice a wire in there to extend it...like when you buy a universal O2 anyway? Just curious. So long as the wire is the right gauge and quality and you have a good quality butt/crimp connector heat shrinked in place?

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking about using the splicing kit that comes with the pacesetters but im not sure on that yet.

Ok, so basically lube every bolt up, take everything thats in my way out wich would be the dip stick tube, and unbolt the steering linkage while the tires are straight, and there is a slight chance that I may have to raise my engine (raise engine w/ floor jack and a peice of 2x4 untill tension is released from the mount so the bolt can slide out, raise from oil pan). When I put them in, they go in from the bottom. Do I got it right?

Now, onto the O2s...what are signs that I didn't put them in right or that they arent reading?

Should I use the splice kit that comes with the pacesetters or pay the $50 from texas speed for the plug n play o2 extensions?

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

sounds like you should be ok. if the o2's don't tighten up, you have a problem hahah. your car would run rich if the front o2's weren't working and the rears would throw a check engine light. they just monitor the cats are working. i don't see why splicing o2 wires would be a problem? if you want it to look nice i guess you could splurge on the extensions.

zlover129

iTrader: (10)

I know this sounds weird but when redoing my oil pan gasket a couple weeks back me and a buddy of mine decided to just pull the k-member off so i could completely pull the pan. Either way, wound up being a genius idea, not hard at all to just pull the LCA's as well as the k member together and leave everything else connected, makes it extremely easy to do anything including installing LT's. That's going to be my approach from now on, i kept putting off pulling my headers since i didnt feel like fighting them without a lift, this renewed my inkling to do it haha

96formulabird

i just put pacesetters on my car, but i did not have emissions stuff. first off spend the extra 40 bucks and buy o2 extensions. splicing the wires will just lead to problems. and as far as how to do it. i also took off all my air stuff and emissions stuff. take alternator off,starter,air intake,oil dipstick,then take loose the manifolds and rest away from head. then remove plugs. o yeh and take y-pipe off. then remove manifolds. then drivers side header i got in through bottom and passenger through top. but with emissions i dont know how well those will slid in. as far as steering i just removed the plastic gaurd around some of the knuckles on the steering shaft and then put it all back together. thats a basic on how to do it. its not that bad. it took me and my buddy on a 4 post lift about 20hours from start to finish. and this too was are first header install. but i am very mechanically inclined so that helped too. just be ready for the famous lt-1 busted knuckles. lol and have fun with it. also it took me and my buddy 20hours and we were goofing off the whole time too. if we would have been working with out messing around it would have got done a lot faster. good luck it really isnt that bad.

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

yeah 96formula bird, u had a lift. lol. Ima have a jack that can barely lift half a jackstand, lol jk, i got those covered. And yeah, ima take ur advise and just get the extensions to avoid any problems. Is it absolutly necessary to take off the starter, alternater and air intake? ive never messed with the alternator, ive seen it done on other cars so I should be alright...

creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

Starter has to come out...I did not have to remove my alternator.