lt1 build
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From: park hills
lt1 build i have a few questions about building a decent lt1 i got a 93 formula with a bad motor it dropped a valve and shattered a piston i want to build a decent engine other than stock i was wondering how good the stock pistons were? as i may order one to replace that one and if anyone knows anything about gm x rods and what they are good for and a decent cam or a real good cam im thinking about just buying a set of stock heads for now but i figure id add a cam while its apart its at the machine shop being sleeved and boiled and having the cranked turned now theres a cam sitting in the car suppost to be a performance cam but i know nothing about it as i didnt buy it and the guy i got it from said the comp cams box isnt the original there is a set of comp cams hardened push rods and stiffer springs sitting in the back seat and the car has a rebuilt 4l60 any info on what theyre good for stock? because im sure thats all it is and the car supposedly has 4.10s in the rear havent took the cover off to check yet... so basically what i need is any info on building a decently fast car and what i need oh and i can get some #s off the cam if anyone want to take a shot on identifying it thanks for any info and help i greatly appreciate it
Wow, take a breath. There is a period mark "." that is supposed to allow you to separate different thoughts.
From the one question I could decipher, stock pistons are poor in quality and should be upgraded.
Best of luck.
From the one question I could decipher, stock pistons are poor in quality and should be upgraded.
Best of luck.
For the shortblock, if you're keeping power under 450 rwhp or about there, the stock crank, rods, and pistons will be fine (if you aren't ever going to spray or boost the engine, then you'll need forged pistons). Basically have you crank turned, rods reconditioned, new piston(s), have it balanced, then secure it all with ARP hardware.
For the cam put up some #'s and we'll see if we can identify it. In general if you want a new one for stock heads you shouldn't go anylarger than the cc503 or similar.
For the cam put up some #'s and we'll see if we can identify it. In general if you want a new one for stock heads you shouldn't go anylarger than the cc503 or similar.
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From: park hills
ok thanks the #s on the cam are... at the fron in between the fuel pump lobe and #1s exhaust is 4714 and EP on the underside of that after the second cam journal is 2G on the underside of it is G4 right before the 4th journal is CWC and right after is D1 and C1 on the underside and on the back of the cam is 07-306-8 and VQ4617-06 does and one recognize the numbers?
somone told me that it should be a Comp Cams 5.10/5.40 lift at 230/244 duration at 0.50 with 112 degree lobe seperation does anyone know if thats correct i would like to have somewhere between 400-450 at the crank all motor no boost or spray id be real happy i have about 1500 to drop in at the moment so ive got to build it on a sort of budget i plan on using a stock set of heads and intake and everything at first ill upgrade later on that but im wondering if this cam is a decent cam if those are the right numbers for it... but the one thig i want to do before i asseble this motor is if my stock bottom end would not be able to support the numbers im shooting for ill replace them... once again thanks for any and all help and advice given i do appreciatte it
somone told me that it should be a Comp Cams 5.10/5.40 lift at 230/244 duration at 0.50 with 112 degree lobe seperation does anyone know if thats correct i would like to have somewhere between 400-450 at the crank all motor no boost or spray id be real happy i have about 1500 to drop in at the moment so ive got to build it on a sort of budget i plan on using a stock set of heads and intake and everything at first ill upgrade later on that but im wondering if this cam is a decent cam if those are the right numbers for it... but the one thig i want to do before i asseble this motor is if my stock bottom end would not be able to support the numbers im shooting for ill replace them... once again thanks for any and all help and advice given i do appreciatte it
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From: Elwood,il
Some people run this cam on stock heads but i would recommend bigger injectors with this cam. I is a cc306 cam from the numbers that you posted. Te biggest reason i dont recommend this cam is that it makes great power above 6000 RPM and most people don't want to rev a stock bottom end that high. with a fresh rebuild and all ARP hardware and good bearings you shouldn't have a problem though.
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i have a few questions about building a decent lt1 i got a 93 formula with a bad motor it dropped a valve and shattered a piston i want to build a decent engine other than stock i was wondering how good the stock pistons were? as i may order one to replace that one and if anyone knows anything about gm x rods and what they are good for and a decent cam or a real good cam im thinking about just buying a set of stock heads for now but i figure id add a cam while its apart its at the machine shop being sleeved and boiled and having the cranked turned now theres a cam sitting in the car suppost to be a performance cam but i know nothing about it as i didnt buy it and the guy i got it from said the comp cams box isnt the original there is a set of comp cams hardened push rods and stiffer springs sitting in the back seat and the car has a rebuilt 4l60 any info on what theyre good for stock? because im sure thats all it is and the car supposedly has 4.10s in the rear havent took the cover off to check yet... so basically what i need is any info on building a decently fast car and what i need oh and i can get some #s off the cam if anyone want to take a shot on identifying it thanks for any info and help i greatly appreciate it
I would...
-get the block bored and honed .030" over
-align hone the mains
-cut/polish the crank
-recondition the stock rods, use ARP rod bolts
-new set of Mahle forged 4.030" pistons, flat-top w/ valve reliefs
-install new quality bearings and rings
That should set you up for a stout bottom end capable of handling a good amount of power and rpm. You can top it off with a nice heads/cam package from Ai or LE. Should be able to get you in the 375-400 rwhp range w/ all the supporting mods.
Just remember that quality comes with a price, don't skimp on your engine.
With that new engine you will want a higher stall converter, trans cooler, and 3.73 gears. Should rip!
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From: park hills
okay well the block is at the machine shop they said the 7 pistons that are there arent wore at all and they can order a piston and they are gonna sleeve the one cylinder the rest are in great shape you can still see the factory hone marks the crank will have to be turned 10/10 and they said the block will have to be decked the guy i got it from who pulled the engine which aggervates me because he done alot of stupid crap like trying to beat the head gasket pins out with a hammer which he damaged the damaged the head surface of the block in the process which is why it has to be decked the machine shop here isnt too bad on theyre price so far it is 80 dollars for being decked 65 for being sleeved 65 for having the crang turned and 5 dollers per rod to be roconditioned i may just have them bore it .030 over and buy the .030 kit from summit racing or does anyone have any different recomendations and i am going to buy the arp rod bolts theyll be on theyre way soon heres the kit im looking at comes with forged pistons http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
Last edited by camarodriver15; May 20, 2009 at 11:01 PM. Reason: added some info
I wish I had a machine shop that resonable in my area, thats dirt cheap!
I would however disagree and replace all the pistons, even if they aren't worn the pistons can become weak and more prone to crack. This is partly due to age and any knock the engine had to endure (bad gas...) and the piston material (hyper pistons are rather brittle) I'd just replace them all and get it balanced. It shouldn't be that much more and is added ensurance against any ringland failure.
That summit kit really is a good deal IMO, comes with everything and only replaces the weak parts in the LT1.
I would however disagree and replace all the pistons, even if they aren't worn the pistons can become weak and more prone to crack. This is partly due to age and any knock the engine had to endure (bad gas...) and the piston material (hyper pistons are rather brittle) I'd just replace them all and get it balanced. It shouldn't be that much more and is added ensurance against any ringland failure.
That summit kit really is a good deal IMO, comes with everything and only replaces the weak parts in the LT1.
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From: park hills
alright thanks ill get with the machine shop tomorrow and have them go ahead and bore the engine and ill get order that kit and the arp hardware when its done if i could find someone to buy this big block and 400 tranny i have just laying around i would just say to hell with it and buy a good set of heads and a good set of h-beam rods and probably get a stroker crank but i have a feeling it wont sell before i assemble this motor thanks for the advice
