Fixing a driver side header leak?
Fixing a driver side header leak? Any tips on fixing a leaky driver side header on a 1995 trans am? It has pacesetter longtubes with stage 8 locking fastners. I bought the car with the parts on and just wondering how hard are what is needed to do the job rite (what should i use on the bolt to thread seal, type of gasket, torque specs?)
Thanks ls1tech
Thanks ls1tech
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 384
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First things first, try retorquing the header bolts and see if that stops the leak. I guess the Stage-8 bolts shouldn't back out, but I've never used them.
Otherwise, shouldn't be too bad. Longtubes are generally a pain in the *** to get INTO the car, but once there, it's not bad to work on if you're at all mechanically inclined.
Generally, just unbolt everything. I'd probably pull the spark plugs so you don't accidentally break them off -- and look out for the coolant temp sensor on the cylinder head too (the electrical connector is plastic). You can get more clearance by removing the intermediate steering shaft -- two bolts (one bolt up top on the shaft to the steering wheel, one horizontal bolt across the bottom to the steering rack). Clean the gasket surfaces with a wire-wheel on a dremel, if you got one. Naturally, you'll have to unbolt the header from the collector under the car to do so.
I like the Felpro 1406 gaskets. They have hooks for the end bolts, so you can have the header bolted in place and just drop the gasket in (-much easier than fighting the header into place with a gasket dangling around). When reinstalling the bolts, DONT TIGHTEN ANY OF THEM until you have ALL of them threaded. If you put one bolt in and start tightening it down, you'll have trouble getting the other bolts threaded.
I don't bother torquing the bolts -- just snug 'em down tight, and retighten them after a few warm-up / cool-down cycles.
Pretty generic info -- we can get more detailed if you need.
Otherwise, shouldn't be too bad. Longtubes are generally a pain in the *** to get INTO the car, but once there, it's not bad to work on if you're at all mechanically inclined.
Generally, just unbolt everything. I'd probably pull the spark plugs so you don't accidentally break them off -- and look out for the coolant temp sensor on the cylinder head too (the electrical connector is plastic). You can get more clearance by removing the intermediate steering shaft -- two bolts (one bolt up top on the shaft to the steering wheel, one horizontal bolt across the bottom to the steering rack). Clean the gasket surfaces with a wire-wheel on a dremel, if you got one. Naturally, you'll have to unbolt the header from the collector under the car to do so.
I like the Felpro 1406 gaskets. They have hooks for the end bolts, so you can have the header bolted in place and just drop the gasket in (-much easier than fighting the header into place with a gasket dangling around). When reinstalling the bolts, DONT TIGHTEN ANY OF THEM until you have ALL of them threaded. If you put one bolt in and start tightening it down, you'll have trouble getting the other bolts threaded.
I don't bother torquing the bolts -- just snug 'em down tight, and retighten them after a few warm-up / cool-down cycles.
Pretty generic info -- we can get more detailed if you need.
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 13
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From: Chicago
Buy a good gasket set. I used the Percy double aluminum gasket and it seals great. As far as the bolts, put Permatex anti-seize paste on them. Not sure of the torque specs, I doubt you will be able to get a torque wrench on it. I went 1/4 turn past tight. The aluminum gaskets will crush and should seal tight anyway.
Drivers side should be pretty easy. Just unbolt and replace. Check if the previous installer left a stud on the foremost and rear most hole. This will help you hang the gasket in place while you try to tighten the bolts up again.
Drivers side should be pretty easy. Just unbolt and replace. Check if the previous installer left a stud on the foremost and rear most hole. This will help you hang the gasket in place while you try to tighten the bolts up again.
