header burns threw plugwire
header burns threw plugwire need help asap im drivin to kentucky fri! ok next time i want to modify or work on my car kick me in the nuts and have a profesional do it. i was checking my header bolts as a few backed out earlier and was just checkin them and noticed some flashing under the driver side header. it looks like the header burned threw the wire which could help explain why its been running like crap. now im no mechanic ( but i do know the difference between brake fluid and oil ) but how should i go about this. can i just change one wire or do i have to change all( only have about 8k on plugs and wires). is it a easy job or a PITA? also how do i go about rerouting them with out takin the header off? can it be done? Im an idiot i know.
Yes, you can do just one...you just want to make sure you leave space between the wire and the exhaust EVERYWHERE. You also don't want it rubbing on anything sharp, routed ina manor that puts strain on the wire, etc. I recommend using the heat sleeves that you can put on the ends of the boot on the head side to keep them heat dampened and protected from chafing and burning...however, I understand your leaving soon. If you have time and some extra cash, I would definitely get some heat sleeves...they run about $60-$70 at local speed shops or you can order them from Summit or Jegs or something.
They will also have single wires that need to be cut down and crimped, etc. and you can make your own wire and run it however you need to get it back running and routed the way you want. Basically, just be smart about where the wires fall/lay/sit when installing them. If it is on a header, it will burn through...if it is too close it will burn, if it is resting on or rubbing on a sharp corner/radius it will be a problem...you get the idea.
It takes about an hour to run a single wire I would say if you jack up the front of the car enough to get under it...depending on which wire is burned of course.
They will also have single wires that need to be cut down and crimped, etc. and you can make your own wire and run it however you need to get it back running and routed the way you want. Basically, just be smart about where the wires fall/lay/sit when installing them. If it is on a header, it will burn through...if it is too close it will burn, if it is resting on or rubbing on a sharp corner/radius it will be a problem...you get the idea.
It takes about an hour to run a single wire I would say if you jack up the front of the car enough to get under it...depending on which wire is burned of course.
i believe its either the the 3rd or 4th one. now do i have to make the wire even if its a factory length? basicaly the best quick fix is to get those protective sleeves and replace the 1 wire and put those sleeves on all wires for now and leave them were they lay now untill i can reroute them over the valve cover?
Yea...basically. You don't even have to route them over the valve cover...it just eliminates a lot of the potential spots for burns than running it under everything. I would replace the one wire that is burnt...ohm them out. Anything over 1K is probably burnt...it will most likely read like 4-6k or something silly...basically you'll know which ones are burnt. Put those heat sleeves on the boot ends on the head side and try and route everything as clear of headers as possible. The heat shields will definitely help. I have them and a couple of my boots are very close to the header primaries on a couple and the heat shield is working well at keeping them unburnt. The issue I had was with chafing along the engine/compressor/misc. crap under the engine bay from the previous owners routing job. I will eventually be redoing it all the way I want it run. I ohms them though and found a bad one...replaced it...no more bad wires. It shouldn't be too bad of a job, but I would take the time and jack the car up and get a multimeter and ohm out all the wires to make sure which ones need replacing and if you have more than one first. It will save you trouble later.
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That is for the whole wire basically...it's a roll. You can do that for sure, but I was just thinking for the ends, like this:
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/insul-boot.php
They only cover the last 6" of the wire/boot and have a little metal ring inside them that go where the spark plug attaches to the spark plug wire and then you pull it back over the rest of the wire as far as it will go. Either or will help tremendously. The overall goal is to keep the wires from burning again, however it gets accomplished. My local speed shop had them...if you want to go to one near you so you see what they look like first.
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/insul-boot.php
They only cover the last 6" of the wire/boot and have a little metal ring inside them that go where the spark plug attaches to the spark plug wire and then you pull it back over the rest of the wire as far as it will go. Either or will help tremendously. The overall goal is to keep the wires from burning again, however it gets accomplished. My local speed shop had them...if you want to go to one near you so you see what they look like first.
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