my set up! what you think?
It will not run good track times at all IMO.
Very very tiny cam for a 383 (218/224), stock stall, questionable heads, and low compression(why rebuild with the stock compression? They are already 10:4 from the factory!). You need more compression and a bigger cam for a 383...that is barely bigger then a stock cam.
I guess it is a start, and will pick up a LOT with a bigger cam and a stall converter, but for now it won't run any quicker then a stock shortblock with a good H/C package.
Very very tiny cam for a 383 (218/224), stock stall, questionable heads, and low compression(why rebuild with the stock compression? They are already 10:4 from the factory!). You need more compression and a bigger cam for a 383...that is barely bigger then a stock cam.
I guess it is a start, and will pick up a LOT with a bigger cam and a stall converter, but for now it won't run any quicker then a stock shortblock with a good H/C package.
He may be able to pull that dowel out to the needed length.....the 847 cam I bought came with the late lt1 dowel and I was able to gentley tap it in to work with my L98 based motor......
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idk i was told that i needed a low compression to run spray which i will be running. so with low compression how exactly is that affecting the performance? i just dont want a stall put in it. i really want a very drivable car not one that lopin everytime i pull up to a street sign. lol
idk i was told that i needed a low compression to run spray which i will be running. so with low compression how exactly is that affecting the performance? i just dont want a stall put in it. i really want a very drivable car not one that lopin everytime i pull up to a street sign. lol
Build the motor with more compression, get a larger cam, get a stall and gears. You need to optimize your set up, not throw parts together. Definitely stop listening to whoever it is that you are getting your prior information/knowledge from.
I agree that whoever is helping you may be mechanically inclined but they are clearly not familiar with LT1s.
Nitrous LOVES compression, LT1s are reverse cooled and are streetable with high compression, and most importantly IMO a cammed auto absolutely, positively NEEDS a stall to perform. It is not an option, a stock stalled auto will be a dog.
You can cut half a second off your time with the proper stall - no single mod besides nitrous comes close to that much bang for buck.
Nitrous LOVES compression, LT1s are reverse cooled and are streetable with high compression, and most importantly IMO a cammed auto absolutely, positively NEEDS a stall to perform. It is not an option, a stock stalled auto will be a dog.
You can cut half a second off your time with the proper stall - no single mod besides nitrous comes close to that much bang for buck.
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Verdad Gallardo I agree that whoever is helping you may be mechanically inclined but they are clearly not familiar with LT1s.
Nitrous LOVES compression, LT1s are reverse cooled and are streetable with high compression, and most importantly IMO a cammed auto absolutely, positively NEEDS a stall to perform. It is not an option, a stock stalled auto will be a dog.
You can cut half a second off your time with the proper stall - no single mod besides nitrous comes close to that much bang for buck.
Nitrous LOVES compression, LT1s are reverse cooled and are streetable with high compression, and most importantly IMO a cammed auto absolutely, positively NEEDS a stall to perform. It is not an option, a stock stalled auto will be a dog.
You can cut half a second off your time with the proper stall - no single mod besides nitrous comes close to that much bang for buck.
stalls don't make cars unstreetable, also don't let anyone tell you that anything over a 2xxx stall is totally unstreetable. many incompetent builders out there will say "oh no big stalls are bad and make cars undrivable blah blah blah" hence why many misinformed people have BS B&M holeshoot convertors rated around 22-2600rpm. I DD a 3000 stall and actually wish it was bigger.
If it is a 10 bolt as well I feel bad for it 
This is more left over information from the old SBC days of horrible restalled 12" stall converters. Back then even a mild 2200 stall felt loose, was extremely ineffecient on the top end, and put out loads of heat.
stalls don't make cars unstreetable, also don't let anyone tell you that anything over a 2xxx stall is totally unstreetable. many incompetent builders out there will say "oh no big stalls are bad and make cars undrivable blah blah blah" hence why many misinformed people have BS B&M holeshoot convertors rated around 22-2600rpm. I DD a 3000 stall and actually wish it was bigger.
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I'd go with a bigger cam. I'd get one custom made for your set up, and n2o usage plans.
Get some 3.73 gears as well.