LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Pulled the Engine out..

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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 11:23 PM
  #21  
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I don't understand why you had such a hard time bleeding the power steering system and the brakes? It usually just takes several turns of the wheel lock to lock and you're done. I used to do it out the top and ever since the first time I went out the bottom that's been the only way I will do it on these cars.
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 11:26 PM
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With the LT1 I had I just unbolted the Resivoir and placed it ontop of the Engine. Then I took a 1/4 extention and the socket through the holes in the PS Pump Pulley and un-bolted the whole Pump when it came time to remove it so I could remove the Engine from the K-member. THis is how I did it when I dropped the Engine out the bottom.

I never went out with top with my LT1..but if I had to I would do the same and instead of resting the Resivoir on the Engine I would hang the Resivoir and the Pump somewhere on the Frame Rail out of the way. You can't see it in the pic but I have the whole PS Pump Assembly on the driver's side Frame Rail. The LS one is a little easier to work with since it's a smaller setup.

In a way I still don't understand why you would need to disconnect it..

Here is a pic of it on the K-member when I installed it..


Last edited by the_merv; Jul 5, 2009 at 11:32 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 11:30 PM
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I've done it both ways. I prefer taking it out from the top, to me it's just easier and more convenient if you lack the space/room to do it.
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 07:05 AM
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powerhousecamaro, the power steering should clear the bracket without the lines bending.
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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I don't know why everyone needs so many jack stands, ramps, etc. I just used a single floor jack and 2 jack stands (for the front frame rails). The car was also lowered and I still had more than enough clearance before the rear bumper hit the floor, and motor/trans came out with ease. I still prefer doing it from the top, to me it seems like less work. Depends if you like installing/removing headers or not I got it down to 45 min to remove lol
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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just did mine out the bottom over the weekend. not bad at all with all things considered.

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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
just did mine out the bottom over the weekend. not bad at all with all things considered.

Must be ******* nice having a lift

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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by fergymoto
I don't understand why you had such a hard time bleeding the power steering system and the brakes? It usually just takes several turns of the wheel lock to lock and you're done. I used to do it out the top and ever since the first time I went out the bottom that's been the only way I will do it on these cars.
If you didn't have problem bleeding the PS then you must have had one of three options that I did not have :

1- Luck.
2- Luck.
3- Luck.

Mine was simply impossible to bleed , it kept whining on me, I even replaced the pump twice and it kept whining (Sold the car with that noise back then). Went step by step EXACTLY like the "book" said and still I was unsuccessful man, I don't know why .

Adam
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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That's why we were telling you a way to do it without bleeding it..
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by powerhousecamaro
Every time I see this topic I have to read it . I've done it both ways and to make the story short here's my opnion :

First off, If you don't have a lift and a way to lift the car high enough, pulling it from the top is your ONLY option weather you want it or not.

If you DO have a lift or a way to lift the car high enough, then you BETTER pull it out of the bottom because it WILL save you a LOT of time and work compared to the things you need to do to pull it out of the top, picture above proves it .

However, there's a CATCH pulling it out the bottom, it's called POWER STERRING SYSTEM. Thant thing (To me at least) is a ******* bitch to bleed (You also need to bleed the brake system), these two things you SAVE by pulling it out of the top.

So, in few words, if you don't have a problem bleeding the power steering system and you have a lift, then don't even think about the top.
If you never bled a power steering system on LT1s, do yourself a favor, yes work extra 5 hours just to pull it out the top.

I will NEVER do it from the bottom again JUST because of the power steering and prefer working many extra hours like an idiot taking many parts off that I wouldn't have to take off doing it from the bottom ,just to save that steering hassle.

Good luck.
Exactly! Thank you for posting that. I will never understand why people carp about pulling the motor out of the top when it is really not that big of a deal. If you don't have a lift, you have to come up with these unsafe cumbersome ways of lifting the body off the cradle (2 7ton jacks, 2x4s, chaining the body to a cherry picker, etc.). Couple that with bleeding your power steerning system..eh, no thanks.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by powerhousecamaro
If you didn't have problem bleeding the PS then you must have had one of three options that I did not have :

1- Luck.
2- Luck.
3- Luck.

Mine was simply impossible to bleed , it kept whining on me, I even replaced the pump twice and it kept whining (Sold the car with that noise back then). Went step by step EXACTLY like the "book" said and still I was unsuccessful man, I don't know why .

Adam
Am I the only one who drops the PS reservior down with the engine effectively keeping the entire power settring system untouched and intact? Hence...no bleeding. Why would you do it any other way?
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by powerhousecamaro
Must be ******* nice having a lift

you know it!
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Old Aug 7, 2019 | 09:22 AM
  #33  
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Default LS1 removal

Hey guys, do I need to remove the wiring harness with the engine compartment. Can I just unplug all the essentials and leave it where it is? I have everything unplugged at this point and am wondering, is there some reason that it still needs to be removed. Please advise.
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Old Aug 7, 2019 | 10:11 AM
  #34  
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I have done both. I'd much rather unplug harness from all sensors w/in the engine bay and move them aside. It takes just a few minutes to do so.
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Old Aug 7, 2019 | 10:16 AM
  #35  
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Thank you for the fast reply. I appreciate it very much, as I have everything disconnected. Didn't want to go pulling the PCM, if I didn't need to.
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Old Jul 10, 2023 | 12:56 PM
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Default Install motor from top

Old old post, but couldn’t find a newer one to help.

Have motor ready to go back in 2000 SS.

I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get the motor in from the top even with a leveler on the hoist. I hit the windshield every time no matter the angle and the hoist isn’t long enough even with the front bumper cover removed.

With that said, how does one clear the windshield without taking out the cradle and all of that?

Last edited by Midget829; Jul 10, 2023 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2023 | 01:46 PM
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Custom lift plate or find a used "Happy Hooker" made by TPIS (no longer made).

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2020/...d-accessories/
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Old Jul 10, 2023 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Gojira94
Custom lift plate or find a used "Happy Hooker" made by TPIS (no longer made).

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2020/...d-accessories/
copy that. Carb plate should mount to the intake I would think. CID 4500 or I can use the bottom of L-brackets (the actual “L”) with a different leveler we have and just bolt those to the top of the intake so I can clear
the windshield. Basically acting like a lifting plate..
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Old Jul 10, 2023 | 01:57 PM
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You should remove the front bumper.
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Old Jul 10, 2023 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28Roxy
You should remove the front bumper.
Yes it is. It was a typo. My apologies.
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