150 shot on stock bottom end?
Wet or dry, either way you will be fine spraying 150 with the stock pump. From what I understand and researched 150 is pushing it but borderline okay to maintain an engine that remains in one peice. Many are running 150+ on a stock bottom but many say 125 is max. I am planning on 150 dry myself.
I see no issue and many including myself have ran 150+ in addition to a heads/cam setup.
personally I would put a fuel pump in if it's still original
I would suggest a window switch, bottle heater, NGK TR6 plugs and a Digital 6 box.
once you spray the car be prepared to want more
let me know if you need help with parts
personally I would put a fuel pump in if it's still original
I would suggest a window switch, bottle heater, NGK TR6 plugs and a Digital 6 box.
once you spray the car be prepared to want more
let me know if you need help with parts
A fuel pump is likely 12+years old, a perfectly functional stocker with good wiring might feed a stock engine +150 shot but is your's brand new with good wiring? You willing to bet your engine on it being good?
Guys have gone over 150 many a times and had the engine live IF they set things up competently. All it takes to lose the engine is assuming a 15yo pump is capable of feeding a 100 shot and not having safeties in place. Then you find out the very hard way the pump was weak but still OK for NA. The added demands of nitrous werre more tha it could supply it went lean and it destoyed the pistons.
Stock parts are often very good BUT at this age you have to think for a moment how old they are and if they are not old was the cheap parts store replacement truely stock equivalent.
You do things RIGHT and a heads/cam stock shortblock can take 150 shot of nitrous and even carry b-bodies into the 10s. You halfass it and you can blow it up running 13s.
Guys have gone over 150 many a times and had the engine live IF they set things up competently. All it takes to lose the engine is assuming a 15yo pump is capable of feeding a 100 shot and not having safeties in place. Then you find out the very hard way the pump was weak but still OK for NA. The added demands of nitrous werre more tha it could supply it went lean and it destoyed the pistons.
Stock parts are often very good BUT at this age you have to think for a moment how old they are and if they are not old was the cheap parts store replacement truely stock equivalent.
You do things RIGHT and a heads/cam stock shortblock can take 150 shot of nitrous and even carry b-bodies into the 10s. You halfass it and you can blow it up running 13s.
Well I plan on 150 shot for a stock bottom end. The motor is rebuilt stock in 06 with chromoly rings. So the mileage is low.
I want to use $40 summit racing window switch
FP safety switch
then the standard equipment.
Why use the digital 6 setup?
Also what liter output is the stock pump rated you think?
I want to use $40 summit racing window switch
FP safety switch
then the standard equipment.
Why use the digital 6 setup?
Also what liter output is the stock pump rated you think?
You want a real aftermarket ignition because the stock rev limiter will destroy the engine if it activates on nitrous. Would be wise to get an aftermarket ignition that handles window switch, rev limit and timing retard.
From what I have seen most basic "rebuilt" LT1s are a step BACKWARDS from stock so good luck with that none of us have any idea what was done so we can'rt really comment on whether this will work.
Again on the fuel pump thing, output when new with good wiring is unlikely to be the same as output today with stock wiring.
From what I have seen most basic "rebuilt" LT1s are a step BACKWARDS from stock so good luck with that none of us have any idea what was done so we can'rt really comment on whether this will work.
Again on the fuel pump thing, output when new with good wiring is unlikely to be the same as output today with stock wiring.
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Brett Foote At one point one of the b-body guys actually tested a stock pump as installed in the car. Too bad the website was finally down last I looked for it. It had been put together probably 7 years ago, car changed hands and eventually went high 10s on a stock shortblock, ported iron heads a mild cam and a two stage 200+80 nitrous shot. At that I have to think he tore it down and opened the ring gap otherwise I would expect a 280 shot to butt the ring and rip the top of the ring lands off.
I personally would install a new pump to play it safe, get a bottle heater/Mallory 685 box, this way you can pull timing & have a window switch, also drop in some TR6 plugs gapped at .033" too .035", i played it safe with mine, ran the #s in my sig. on just 100 shot, stock bottom end with 160K miles, running alittle 110 in the tank really works too, but i had no cats.
I personally couldn't do good heads on a stock shortblock and hit it with 150 jets, just too much to lose if the piston lets go and takes out the nice heads. I'm running a cam only setup right now in my rx7, we'll see what 175-200 jets will do later this year on the stock shortblock/stock heads. 
You have two basic choices Walbro sold under half a dozen names with slight variances that affect fitment or lack there of, or chinese garbage.
IMO Walbro is the choice and you should get it from Racetronix because they have the best kit including the filter sock and wiring upgrades. Not cheapest but best VALUE.
The Holley, Granatelli etc are all just reboxed Walbro anyway.
The chinese ones are fairly new to the market, a LOT cheaper and sofar look to last about as well as you would expect a cheap chinese one to last.
IMO Walbro is the choice and you should get it from Racetronix because they have the best kit including the filter sock and wiring upgrades. Not cheapest but best VALUE.
The Holley, Granatelli etc are all just reboxed Walbro anyway.
The chinese ones are fairly new to the market, a LOT cheaper and sofar look to last about as well as you would expect a cheap chinese one to last.
