LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Opinions on this Engine Break In Method

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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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Default Opinions on this Engine Break In Method

I wanted some opinions on this break in method. I've heard others comment on it before.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


Seems to make sense in theory. I have my motor running right now after working out some issues. 97 LT1 355, LE2 heads & LE2.2 cam, etc.

I have exactly 10 miles on the engine now. All miles were in the garage on jackstands. The rearend has a new 4.10 gear set I wanted to run through 2 heat cycles with. I let the engine reach operatine temperature. "Drove it" 10 minutes from 5-45 mph going through the 1st 4 gears, reverse, etc. for about 5 miles. Shut it down. Came back the next day did the same thing then shut it down. RPMS varied from idle to 3500 RPMS. Changed the oil & filter.

I'm ready to take it out & I would like to try the above break in method however, I don't want to beat on a new ring & pinion set . Would doing this method above adversely affect the breakin of the rear?

He also does not mention HOW many times to go WOT with it? Once? Twice? For the entire first 20? Thoughts?
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 12:16 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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The most important component to break in are the rings. That's it.
This is exactly the way I broke in my 395.3.
It clearly states what is necessary before break in. If you are going to do this on the street it's the same as what is explained about doing it on the dyno.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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It isn't an exact science. A few heat cycles at part throttle as mentioned, change the oil after 40 or 50 miles, and (in the words of my engine builder) "beat the **** out of it."
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