96 Caprice
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96 Caprice I have a 96 Caprice with a 5.7 Lt1. I keep having an issue with the balancer or damper hub, I keep having an issue with the bolt that bolts it to the crank coming loose and backing out the Pulley/Damper/Hub from the Crank, ultimately throwing the belts. I know this year has a keyless hub, but the crank does have a notch for a key for the crank postion indicator. My question is can I use a keyed hub from a 96 camaro Lt1 and or 96 corvette LT1 or any after market keyed hub and use the keyway on the crank to keep the crank from slipping and ultimately backing out the bolt to the hub? when i put the original hub back on I noticed the key for the indicator was missing, i ran it anyway , it ran for awhile and i noticed no problem without the key indicator missing, but once again the bolt backed out. Help!!!
I have a 96 Caprice with a 5.7 Lt1. I keep having an issue with the balancer or damper hub, I keep having an issue with the bolt that bolts it to the crank coming loose and backing out the Pulley/Damper/Hub from the Crank, ultimately throwing the belts. I know this year has a keyless hub, but the crank does have a notch for a key for the crank postion indicator. My question is can I use a keyed hub from a 96 camaro Lt1 and or 96 corvette LT1 or any after market keyed hub and use the keyway on the crank to keep the crank from slipping and ultimately backing out the bolt to the hub? when i put the original hub back on I noticed the key for the indicator was missing, i ran it anyway , it ran for awhile and i noticed no problem without the key indicator missing, but once again the bolt backed out. Help!!!
The LT1 hubs are not keyed, but you can get it cut to use a key.
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I believe that I have torqued it down properly, but what is the best way to keep the crank from turning as you tighten it down? can you remove the dust cap from between the Tranny and the engine and wedge it so it won't move?
M6 - keep it in gear with the parking brake on.
A4 - Remove the inspection cover and lock the flexplate with a prybar engaged on the flexplate teeth.
Are you using a torque wrench?
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No I have not used a torque wrench. Also I think the Crank or the hub might be a little wallered from when it first came loose while running. The hub would be more likely to be worn before the end of the crank , would it not? Also if that is the reason it keeps slipping can you shim either the crank or the hub? lastly is it just more wise to replace the hub all together and have it keyed into the crank
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From: Kempner, TX
If you're worried that the interference fit isn't tight enough, just buy a hub that's been broached for a key or send yours off to, say, Golen Engines, to have your stock one broached. About $70
ThunderRacing sells one, already broached, that'll press right on; less than $100. All you'd need then would be a Woodruff key which you may be able to get from them or your local GM parts department. NAPA sells keys, too, but they come in all different sizes, so choosing the right on becomes a problem.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
ThunderRacing sells one, already broached, that'll press right on; less than $100. All you'd need then would be a Woodruff key which you may be able to get from them or your local GM parts department. NAPA sells keys, too, but they come in all different sizes, so choosing the right on becomes a problem.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
