Swapping '93 computer to '94-'95?
Swapping '93 computer to '94-'95? Alright I have a 1993 LT1 and now that I'm to the point of getting a tune for my heads/cam/intake setup I'm getting really sick of the chip burning speed density bs setup. I'm looking to swap it to the 94-95 computer and I'm wondering what this will all require? Basically what do I need to make this happen? Thanks!
94 harness and PCM. The 94 and 95 harness is different. You'll need to change just a few wires around at the kick panel connectors inside if you do the 94. It gets more involved for the 95. I can give you a diagram of the wires that need to swap around if you decide to go with the 94 setup, just PM me.
The IAC housing and IAC on the TB will need to change, the IAC and the way it attaches is different. The alternator is different, it has more amps and if I remember right maybe even a different harness connector. I swapped to the 94 alternator and also used the 94 power/ground cables that go to the battery, alternator and starter. I'm not sure the power cable swap was necessary as they looked the same except I think the positive connection for the alternator was a different terminal. I had the 94 around so I used it.
The oil pressure sensor is above the oil filter on the 93. I've read about but have never seen some very early 94's are there as well, but otherwise the 94-95 has the oil pressure sensor in the upper block rail behind the intake. You can either extend the wiring and keep your original sensor location, or you can get a 94 sensor and put it in the upper rail where it would be on the 94+. The hole for the sensor is there on the 93 block and it just has a little plug, which can be a real SOB to get out of there because it is a small square head that's a little soft. You will need a plug for the block where the old sensor was, I believe it is 1/4NPT.
You will need new oxygen sensors. 93 is the single wire 02, and 94+ got the 4 wire heated O2's which are going to be better for you anyway with longtubes.
You will need to change your gauge cluster to a 94-95 (possibly 96 but I've read they may have some slight difference because of OBD2 system..I never dug any further with it), otherwise your tach won't work right, and the water temp won't read right either (94 gauge starts at 160 not 100 like the 93). If you don't want to go away from the yellow lettering theme you can just swap the boards inside the cluster and leave the face the same, that will require pulling the needles off though, and then you've still got the issue of your temp not reading right if you're using that gauge. Otherwise it's a good opportunity to start getting rid of the yellow. The odometer is also swappable from cluster to cluster so your mileage will still read the same.
obviously will need a MAF and a CAI that will work with it unless you're going to tune it to run speed density.
can't think of anything else at the moment. I think that's about it for your 6 speed.
The IAC housing and IAC on the TB will need to change, the IAC and the way it attaches is different. The alternator is different, it has more amps and if I remember right maybe even a different harness connector. I swapped to the 94 alternator and also used the 94 power/ground cables that go to the battery, alternator and starter. I'm not sure the power cable swap was necessary as they looked the same except I think the positive connection for the alternator was a different terminal. I had the 94 around so I used it.
The oil pressure sensor is above the oil filter on the 93. I've read about but have never seen some very early 94's are there as well, but otherwise the 94-95 has the oil pressure sensor in the upper block rail behind the intake. You can either extend the wiring and keep your original sensor location, or you can get a 94 sensor and put it in the upper rail where it would be on the 94+. The hole for the sensor is there on the 93 block and it just has a little plug, which can be a real SOB to get out of there because it is a small square head that's a little soft. You will need a plug for the block where the old sensor was, I believe it is 1/4NPT.
You will need new oxygen sensors. 93 is the single wire 02, and 94+ got the 4 wire heated O2's which are going to be better for you anyway with longtubes.
You will need to change your gauge cluster to a 94-95 (possibly 96 but I've read they may have some slight difference because of OBD2 system..I never dug any further with it), otherwise your tach won't work right, and the water temp won't read right either (94 gauge starts at 160 not 100 like the 93). If you don't want to go away from the yellow lettering theme you can just swap the boards inside the cluster and leave the face the same, that will require pulling the needles off though, and then you've still got the issue of your temp not reading right if you're using that gauge. Otherwise it's a good opportunity to start getting rid of the yellow. The odometer is also swappable from cluster to cluster so your mileage will still read the same.
obviously will need a MAF and a CAI that will work with it unless you're going to tune it to run speed density.
can't think of anything else at the moment. I think that's about it for your 6 speed.
Last edited by Fbody4Ever; Aug 19, 2009 at 07:14 PM.
Mainly because there's nobody in my state that can tune it for me. I have to go through mailorder tunes which take too long and aren't always accurate. Then when it acts up like it has been we don't have the cable to read the computer. All my friends either have 94 or 95 so mine doesn't really fit in. I also have a friend that has the software and everything to tune a 94-95. So it just works out.
Mainly because there's nobody in my state that can tune it for me. I have to go through mailorder tunes which take too long and aren't always accurate. Then when it acts up like it has been we don't have the cable to read the computer. All my friends either have 94 or 95 so mine doesn't really fit in. I also have a friend that has the software and everything to tune a 94-95. So it just works out.
The cable is cheap too.
