The only reason to go 355 is to save money on a build. A properly built 383+ will **** bag a 355 all day everyday! Yes I said preoperly built. No a stock head 383 woun't suffice. Put killer heads on it w/ a 24x dur cam and it's game over! Most 383's you see on here, are running stock heads w hot cams and **** in them. I agree a 355 will perform as well or better with those parts.

 

+1 Well said kinglt-1......385 cubes, 300+cfm of cylinder head and a 25x/26x cam = 10.80@ 128 missing a shift with two burnt plug wires in a 3515lb car!!!!! Theres no replacement for displacement!!!!

 

Well said. That's what I can't understand, all forged 355 to all forged 383, there's no price difference. I put my bottom end together for just under $1600. That's an all forged 383, everything minus the block machining and oil pump. And I won't have any worries when I spray it.

 

--HIJACK--

What are some other popular stroker sizing options out there? Like 396, 408, etc...

 

For an LT1 4.060 bore is about all you can safely get. However it is GENI bottom end parts so a 4.00" crank is feasable. IMO however I do not think anything bigger than a 3.75" crank is safe/durable for high rpm operation in one of these blocks with 350 mains. IMO I think that 3.875"+ strokes are too much stress for these blocks at high rpm (above 7k) and at extreme power levels. I know this opinion might stir up some **** but again its just my opinion, there are plently of 396's out there that run great. This is why I personally built a 385 instead of a 396 or bigger.

 

Well, the "new" thing with the LTXs are 408-410cid. But you need to hack the hell out of the bottom of the bores. IMO the bigger (ie, over 396) should have a half fill done to them just to keep it safe.

 

So I plan on using my stock heads (ported) so should I go with a 355? And I will have a blower. I am going fully forged bottom end and boosted. So would a 355 or a 383 be better? Thanks.

 

If you're going to build a forged bottom end anyway, just do the 383. Same machine work (except the clearance work at the bottom of the cylinders that you can do with a 7 amp DeWalt grinder) and the total cost would only be about 20 bucks more. Check out Ohio Crankshaft for the crank and rods and Keith Black for pistons. I spent 475 on the crank,369 for forged h-beams, and 323 for KB forged aluminum pistons.

 

Thanks so much for the great info!

 

Are you keeping the Vortech on it?

 

Ya, but getting a smaller pulley. Why?

 

What kind of cam did you have in mind, and who's doing the port job on the heads?

 

No idea on what kind of cam yet but I am most likely going to get the heads ported by LE

 

LE1,2,or3?

 

Not sure yet. I am going to talk to him to see whats best

 

Op; Le is a great choice on the heads. I would look at le3's for the 383.

 

I'd put my stock crank, eagle h beam rods, and wiseco pistons up against those parts any day on a nitrous motor. Like I mentioned I should've been just shy of 900 crank hp on that setup.

You running a 4 bolt or 2 bolt splayed setup?

Link to where you got your parts?

 

Eagle billet splayed caps and studded w/o windage tray. The pan I'm using has a built in one. I'm planning on a 2 stage setup. Ohio crank 4340 forged crank (43503750-1), Ohio forged h-beams w/ cap screw (H5700),and Keith Black forged aluminum pistons from summit (forgot the pn). Main journals are filleted and it's target bob weighted from Ohio. And the best part is that if the crank is too far out, they'll rebalance it for you for 150 and wont charge for the mallory (you'll have to pay for the shipping of course). Talk to Chip, he'll hook you up.

www.ohiocrank.com
www.summitracing.com

 

ohio crank makes good stuff imo!

 

^^^You're not kidding buddy!