Why a 355?
The only reason to go 355 is to save money on a build. A properly built 383+ will **** bag a 355 all day everyday! Yes I said preoperly built. No a stock head 383 woun't suffice. Put killer heads on it w/ a 24x dur cam and it's game over! Most 383's you see on here, are running stock heads w hot cams and **** in them. I agree a 355 will perform as well or better with those parts.
The only reason to go 355 is to save money on a build. A properly built 383+ will **** bag a 355 all day everyday! Yes I said preoperly built. No a stock head 383 woun't suffice. Put killer heads on it w/ a 24x dur cam and it's game over! Most 383's you see on here, are running stock heads w hot cams and **** in them. I agree a 355 will perform as well or better with those parts.
Well said. That's what I can't understand, all forged 355 to all forged 383, there's no price difference. I put my bottom end together for just under $1600. That's an all forged 383, everything minus the block machining and oil pump. And I won't have any worries when I spray it.
For an LT1 4.060 bore is about all you can safely get. However it is GENI bottom end parts so a 4.00" crank is feasable. IMO however I do not think anything bigger than a 3.75" crank is safe/durable for high rpm operation in one of these blocks with 350 mains. IMO I think that 3.875"+ strokes are too much stress for these blocks at high rpm (above 7k) and at extreme power levels. I know this opinion might stir up some **** but again its just my opinion, there are plently of 396's out there that run great. This is why I personally built a 385 instead of a 396 or bigger. Last edited by quik95lt1; Sep 22, 2009 at 01:04 PM.
Well, the "new" thing with the LTXs are 408-410cid. But you need to hack the hell out of the bottom of the bores. IMO the bigger (ie, over 396) should have a half fill done to them just to keep it safe.
The only reason to go 355 is to save money on a build. A properly built 383+ will **** bag a 355 all day everyday! Yes I said preoperly built. No a stock head 383 woun't suffice. Put killer heads on it w/ a 24x dur cam and it's game over! Most 383's you see on here, are running stock heads w hot cams and **** in them. I agree a 355 will perform as well or better with those parts.
If you're going to build a forged bottom end anyway, just do the 383. Same machine work (except the clearance work at the bottom of the cylinders that you can do with a 7 amp DeWalt grinder) and the total cost would only be about 20 bucks more. Check out Ohio Crankshaft for the crank and rods and Keith Black for pistons. I spent 475 on the crank,369 for forged h-beams, and 323 for KB forged aluminum pistons.
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Verdad Gallardo If you're going to build a forged bottom end anyway, just do the 383. Same machine work (except the clearance work at the bottom of the cylinders that you can do with a 7 amp DeWalt grinder) and the total cost would only be about 20 bucks more. Check out Ohio Crankshaft for the crank and rods and Keith Black for pistons. I spent 475 on the crank,369 for forged h-beams, and 323 for KB forged aluminum pistons.
If you're going to build a forged bottom end anyway, just do the 383. Same machine work (except the clearance work at the bottom of the cylinders that you can do with a 7 amp DeWalt grinder) and the total cost would only be about 20 bucks more. Check out Ohio Crankshaft for the crank and rods and Keith Black for pistons. I spent 475 on the crank,369 for forged h-beams, and 323 for KB forged aluminum pistons.
You running a 4 bolt or 2 bolt splayed setup?
Link to where you got your parts?
www.ohiocrank.com
www.summitracing.com
Last edited by 93Z2871805; Sep 22, 2009 at 11:46 PM.