Starting my build
Starting my build Well i finally got a longblock to rebuild guy told me that is was from a 97. i was told differenty by the opti. he also said it had some kind of port job looks like chit to me more bad than good and a cam but dont know till the am need a hub puller. it blew a head gasket and looked like it sat forawhile like that. rod bearings look good and were STD size
what do i need to change the opti drive to the newer style. is it the same cover aswell?
My plain is Stock bottem end with a good set of pistions incase i spray all Arp hardware.{shold i go studded or bolts}
ported heads like the LE1's and a cam somewhere like the CC503
ill be going threw shorties as well need to stay smog legal
I WILL ACCEPT all pointer/info on parts. part numbers i should use.
What do you think happened to the heads would they still be good?
what does the numbers mean?
what do i need to change the opti drive to the newer style. is it the same cover aswell?
My plain is Stock bottem end with a good set of pistions incase i spray all Arp hardware.{shold i go studded or bolts}
ported heads like the LE1's and a cam somewhere like the CC503
ill be going threw shorties as well need to stay smog legal
I WILL ACCEPT all pointer/info on parts. part numbers i should use.
What do you think happened to the heads would they still be good?
what does the numbers mean?
build a stout 355 with the stock crank, 6" rods, and some good forged pistons. There are a couple of shops up in fresno that quoted me less than 400 bucks for manley forged h beams so there really is no reason why not go with rods as well. Definately get your heads worked and if you are looking for cam suggestions I would have to say Lunati 60121 is a great cam that easily passes smog and makes good power I made 339 on stock heads & shortblock through a stalled auto and pass smog creatively, dyno vid in sig
Yeah 400$ more isn't much might and do it right the first time.
I can't get the damn crank hub off I broke one of the ears off!!! Any suggestions, I have a correct puller wish I had a torch
I can't get the damn crank hub off I broke one of the ears off!!! Any suggestions, I have a correct puller wish I had a torch
there are numerous threads about the hub and the correct way to pull it off, if you just centered the puller in the hub and tried to pull it off that way than you are just pulling against itself and things are going to break. Make sure that you have something that will bottom out in the crank without marring the threads and push against that. Allen head bolts work good or a regular bolt then just put a socket (without ratchet) on the head of the bolt so the puller has a divot to help keep it aligned.
Well I got it off earler geez it was a pita. Cam was aftermarket 276HR-14
Valve Lift .510"/.510"
Duration At .050 220°/230°
Lobe Separation 114°
it looks to be in great shape minus some surface rust not sure if I want to use it or get a new one?!
Valve Lift .510"/.510"
Duration At .050 220°/230°
Lobe Separation 114°
it looks to be in great shape minus some surface rust not sure if I want to use it or get a new one?!
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