96 WS6 Cam setup info
96 WS6 Cam setup info Ok so i read the cam and valvetrain thread but im wondering if i ran the gm847 cam, what all do i need to purchase specifically for this cam. I can do all the work myself but im rather new to the idea of camming a fuel injected car let alone a lt1. My car is basically stock except that it has full exhaust and 3.73 gears. I dont really want it for racing but i want the lope and still want the car to be fun. I read that it hurts bottom end power but im sure there are some other addons that will make that be less of an issue. But im also wondering how much of a loss is it? If its a big difference then i was considering building a 396 lt1 so i may go in that direction and possibly supercharge it if im going from the bottom up. Do heads, intake, cam, all that good stuff.
Everybody that hasn't run this cam will tell you that you shouldn't run it with stock heads and that the bottom end can't handle the necessary RPMs.
Everybody that HAS RUN IT on stock heads will tell you it will peak power at 5800-6000 making it perfect to shift at 6500 which is generally agreed upon as the limit of the stock shortblock. (dyno proven)
The other people will tell you that it's because their valvetrain isn't setup correctly, yet they still dyno 10hp more on average than any other shelf cam.
The same people will then argue that those 10 hp come at the cost of bottom end power, which true yes, the power under the curve below 3k is about 3whp lower on average... But what's most funny about this is that with proper gearing or a stall you don't exactly spend much time below 3k while racing... Do you?
Most cam only auto cars have stalls 3600+ (if they have a brain) and most manuals want to dump the clutch around the same (if they have the rearend) But they will argue that not everybody has this and that most will see better times from a smaller cam, yet if you aren't setting up your car for a specific cam then you can't expect good times anyway!
I also have seen GM847 cars trapping 114 or so mph. Similar modded cars with smaller cams all trap lower.
Being an M6 I'd get some 4.11 gears first.
BUT if you aren't going to set the car up for ANY cam DO NOT expect anything good. Make sure it's set up.
Everybody that HAS RUN IT on stock heads will tell you it will peak power at 5800-6000 making it perfect to shift at 6500 which is generally agreed upon as the limit of the stock shortblock. (dyno proven)
The other people will tell you that it's because their valvetrain isn't setup correctly, yet they still dyno 10hp more on average than any other shelf cam.
The same people will then argue that those 10 hp come at the cost of bottom end power, which true yes, the power under the curve below 3k is about 3whp lower on average... But what's most funny about this is that with proper gearing or a stall you don't exactly spend much time below 3k while racing... Do you?
Most cam only auto cars have stalls 3600+ (if they have a brain) and most manuals want to dump the clutch around the same (if they have the rearend) But they will argue that not everybody has this and that most will see better times from a smaller cam, yet if you aren't setting up your car for a specific cam then you can't expect good times anyway!
I also have seen GM847 cars trapping 114 or so mph. Similar modded cars with smaller cams all trap lower.
Being an M6 I'd get some 4.11 gears first.
BUT if you aren't going to set the car up for ANY cam DO NOT expect anything good. Make sure it's set up.
@ LSWHO - Well in that case in your opinion what would i need to do to have the car set up for that cam. I have listened to some vids of the cam and its really what im set on. I just need to know what all else i need to make it work. The cam is the only part that is decided. The rest is up for discusion. Oh and as far as gears go i would go with 4.11s but the 3.73s in my WS6, well actually the whole rearend came out of my Formula that burnt and they only have about 8000 miles on them so im gonna leave them for now and change them later.
