value of complete 4-bolt engine....
value of complete 4-bolt engine.... ... with a spun rod bearing?
friend's dad has one sitting in his garage and doesnt need it. thinking about making an offer on it. What is the most i should pay for it? Obviously if i can get a deal on it im going to snag it for my next build.
Also if a rod bearing went would the crank be bad too? Anything else i should check?
friend's dad has one sitting in his garage and doesnt need it. thinking about making an offer on it. What is the most i should pay for it? Obviously if i can get a deal on it im going to snag it for my next build.
Also if a rod bearing went would the crank be bad too? Anything else i should check?
Personally I'd offer him a couple hundred bucks. Chances are it's going to need a complete rebuild including a new crank, if the current one received enough damage....otherwise it may be able to be turned. I'd snag it and plan on a stroker motor build....it won't coast too much more than a 355 anyway......
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Tulsa, OK
Agree on the overhaul part...plan on it. It'll have metal all through it.
IMO no more than a 2-bolt. No one cares about a factory 4-bolt block anymore since most everyone who rebuilds an engine either sticks with the 2-bolt using stock or billet caps or has the block splayed. It has been proven a factory 2-bolt block can stand up to most any heads/cam application out there.
IMO no more than a 2-bolt. No one cares about a factory 4-bolt block anymore since most everyone who rebuilds an engine either sticks with the 2-bolt using stock or billet caps or has the block splayed. It has been proven a factory 2-bolt block can stand up to most any heads/cam application out there.
Most Agree the factory 4 bolt block is stronger than a splayed cap. Because of where the splayed cap is drilled has less meat.
Most all head cam combos should have no issues with a studded 2 bolt block.
Depending on how bad the bearing is spun the crank can probably be turned.
I run a studded 4 bolt factory block with stock caps.
Most all head cam combos should have no issues with a studded 2 bolt block.
Depending on how bad the bearing is spun the crank can probably be turned.
I run a studded 4 bolt factory block with stock caps.
Judging by the last argument over this topic it didn't look like most agreed at all. Basing it on the many different opinions as to which is stronger the argument goes both ways. Many argue where the outside bolts are tapped into the webbing on a factory 4-bolt block has less material whereas a splayed configuration is fastened to far more material in the block. It's like arguing the differences between a 5.7 and 6" connecting rod given the average heads/cam applications run on this site.
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Verdad Gallardo my concern for the main caps is not so much strength as it is stability. There are alot of 2-bolt cars running around making some serious power without failure - but i still question the lifespan of the bearings.