LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Pulled engine with Canton pan and 4L60E attached out top

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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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Default Pulled engine with Canton pan and 4L60E attached out top

I used a Happy Hooker, WOW this is THE way to pull an LT1 out of an F body. Now it had a tube k member this will be harder with stock k member and Canton pan.

Had it out in 3 hrs. This included putting the car on stands and draining the radiator.

Pulled the radiator and everything off the front of the engine including the balancer ring to clear the core support. Removed oil filter, passenger motor mount(although I dont think I had to), Dipstick and tube.

It hangs at almost a perfect angle the the Happy Hooker with the trans attached. The car did not have to be WAY off the floor either it was just high enough to get under it and work.

Just thougth I would pass on the info.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:16 AM
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Nice where did you purchase the happy hooker got any pics of it?
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by meangreeneyz28
Nice where did you purchase the happy hooker got any pics of it?
Google is your friend

http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...y=Happy+Hooker
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:33 AM
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These guys originally made and sold them. See if they still do.

http://www.tpis.com/

SKIP TREE'D me!!


I have always used a Happy Hooker to pull LT1's just not with the trans attached.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:40 AM
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Here's another Happy Customer.
Originally Posted by sleepyTA
I have it and it has worked great several times, and the best thing about it can be used on several different setups like carb, LS1, and TPI motors too. The only thing you have to remove to install the Happy Hooker on your intake is the fuel rails and MAP sensor. You will have to remove the motor mounts, exhaust manifold or headers, accessory brackets, altenator, power steering pump, and unbolt the AC compressor and pull it forward out of the way. You can leave the water pump intalled, but you will need to remove the harmonic balancer pulley, but you can leave the hub on just turn it where one of the three flanges is pointing up. You will also have to remove the radiator and AC condensor. Once the transmission is loose along with the motor completely loose start pulling the motor up as far as you can then pull forward untill it hits again, then lift then pull. Just keep pulling up and moving it forward untill it comes out. One thing to be careful about is when you pull the motor and transmission together it makes the cherry picker very prone to tipping over. But if you don't pull the transmission still attached to the motor it won't tilt enough to pull it out of the F-body engine compartment. The Happy hooker was designed to tilt that way just for the F-body LT1 and LS1 cars. It works on both A4 and T-56 cars. When I pull motor I have a 15 foot tall A-frame with a 2.5 ton chain hoist. I can pull the motor out through the top in about 3.5 hours. But ideally you should use a two post lift and the motor and transmission is out in less than 45 minutes.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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David, does the hook also move side to side or is it welded solid?
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Michigan Skip
David, does the hook also move side to side or is it welded solid?
The "eye" is welded solid. I went and bought a swivel hook for my engine crane.

But is does swivel side to side where the "arm" attaches to the base plate.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
The "eye" is welded solid. I went and bought a swivel hook for my engine crane.

But is does swivel side to side where the "arm" attaches to the base plate.
Thanks.
$50 bucks ain't a bad price either.

If TPIS doesn't sell them anymore, I don't think it would take much to make one if a guy had the measurements off another one.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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that looks pretty bad ***. i would have never though those fuel rail threads on the top of the intake were strong enough to support the weight of a complete motor.
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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How was the clearance on it..it seems like it's tall..



Yea something of that nature works well..looks like the part I just made to help install my Engine through the top..



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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 12:00 PM
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Interesting...I still think it might be easier to just drop the k-member out of the bottom. I did it that way last winter and it was a piece of cake and we didn't have to remove anything (rad, etc).
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 94Z28rag
Interesting...I still think it might be easier to just drop the k-member out of the bottom. I did it that way last winter and it was a piece of cake and we didn't have to remove anything (rad, etc).
Exactly. With the right tools (furniture dolly or equiv and quality floor jacks) makes the job a piece of cake. Actually there is no reason to remove the struts from the top of the tower. It is far easier to remove the bottom bolts from the struts which fasten to the A-arm. That way there is hardly a struggle needed to line up and bolt the struts back onto the towers.
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 02:31 PM
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x2 ^ I agree with ya SS RRR....but you can drop the engine/trans/k member in bout the same time as well as pulling it from the top. Its all a preference and what tools and space you have for the job.
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