What plug wires with LTCC kit?
#1
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If anyone could help me with this i'd really appreciate it. To the people here that use LTCC or delteq, what plug wires did you use? I bought 2 sets that were ******* wrong. The ones I got were too long, they were for regular optispark use apparently.
Would these work? I can't figure out what length they are:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TA...n/?prefilter=1
Or do I have to buy LS1 wires?
Would these work? I can't figure out what length they are:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TA...n/?prefilter=1
Or do I have to buy LS1 wires?
#2
That's MISTER MODERATOR
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Length depends on where you put your coils. You'll have to make up your own set or wires.
You'll need a set with LS type sockets on one end and 90 degree plug boots on the other. I suggest high temp sleeves at the plug ends. I also suggest you stay away from Taylors.
The LTCC guide says you can't use low resistance plug wires. MSD wire should work well for you.
You'll need a set with LS type sockets on one end and 90 degree plug boots on the other. I suggest high temp sleeves at the plug ends. I also suggest you stay away from Taylors.
The LTCC guide says you can't use low resistance plug wires. MSD wire should work well for you.
#3
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http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/73811/10002/-1
I have these in the box waiting to cut them to fit.
I know of another guy running them with no problems.
I have these in the box waiting to cut them to fit.
I know of another guy running them with no problems.
#7
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I got a coil relocation kit from Thunder racing and they sent me a set of Taylor cut to fit 8mm wires along with LT1 straight boots to fit the coils and 90* boots for the plug wire end. I had an LTCC kit but sold it and I'm now using the EFI 24x setup with LS2 coils relocated to under the cowl.
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#8
That's MISTER MODERATOR
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Yeah guys, for LT1 applications, you'll want 90 degree boots and quickly learn that you'll want fire sleeving on them.
There was a report here on LS1tech that the Taylor wires burned through quickly and also arced. I popped my hood in the dark with the engine running and did find some arcing. After pulling them, two had arced through the insulation. Several other people reported the same issues.
I swapped to the MSD's and the problems went away.
Here's what to do guys: When you go to the race track and look at the professional cars that win a lot, look what they're running. MSD is what the big boys run.
Honestly, I'd like to give the Granatelli 0 Ohm wires a try but at $150.00, they'll have to wait.
There was a report here on LS1tech that the Taylor wires burned through quickly and also arced. I popped my hood in the dark with the engine running and did find some arcing. After pulling them, two had arced through the insulation. Several other people reported the same issues.
I swapped to the MSD's and the problems went away.
Here's what to do guys: When you go to the race track and look at the professional cars that win a lot, look what they're running. MSD is what the big boys run.
Honestly, I'd like to give the Granatelli 0 Ohm wires a try but at $150.00, they'll have to wait.
#10
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Hey:
Direct from Turbo Bob's website the maker of the LTCC:
8-#12558948 coil
Taylor Spiro-pro cut to fit wires or equivalent (NOT ultra-low resistance type).
1-LTCC Module/Harness
Coil mounting provisions
http://www.bailey-eng.com
Either LS1 or LT1 wire kits work and have to be cut to fit from wherever you mount your coils, I use straight wire ends at both ends.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Direct from Turbo Bob's website the maker of the LTCC:
8-#12558948 coil
Taylor Spiro-pro cut to fit wires or equivalent (NOT ultra-low resistance type).
1-LTCC Module/Harness
Coil mounting provisions
http://www.bailey-eng.com
Either LS1 or LT1 wire kits work and have to be cut to fit from wherever you mount your coils, I use straight wire ends at both ends.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; 12-12-2009 at 09:45 PM. Reason: spacing