T56 swap questions
02-07-2010, 01:51 PM
#1
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T56 swap questions I have a 1995 Camaro Z28 currently is a T56 but previous owner swapped in the T56. He didnt take the time to do any wiring and because of that i have no speedometer, reverse lights, reverse lockout... the auto gear indicator is still hooked up and tapped in neutral so the car will start (no clutch safety switch). Im pretty new to the Camaro scene but I love the car, just wondering if i have to Install a manual trans Ecu or will the stock ecu work and how do i get my speed sensor and etc. to work?
any help is a +... thanks in advance
any help is a +... thanks in advance
02-07-2010, 03:20 PM
#3
You don't have to swap PCM's for either one..just get it reflashed.
K..this one is going to be a fun little project..got to love when people half-*** things..:Bang:
Is the Auto Tranny Plug still in the Harness? That will tell you that whoever did it kept the Auto Harness in. If they did then plug in the Speedo and that should have some kind of effect..it will be no where near correct.
If it was my car I would tear into everything and wire it like it was factory stock..I guess the best question at the moment is how much do you know about wiring and how comfortable are you doing it?
K..this one is going to be a fun little project..got to love when people half-*** things..:Bang:
Is the Auto Tranny Plug still in the Harness? That will tell you that whoever did it kept the Auto Harness in. If they did then plug in the Speedo and that should have some kind of effect..it will be no where near correct.
If it was my car I would tear into everything and wire it like it was factory stock..I guess the best question at the moment is how much do you know about wiring and how comfortable are you doing it?
02-08-2010, 07:58 AM
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I have a full book on the car from autozone that shows the wiring diagram for it. I am pretty secure about doing my own wiring. I notice on ebay they sell pigtail connectors and retrofit connectors for the VSS RLS and Reverse lights. could i get the pigtails and wire them up from the harness wires? and yes it still has the auto harness plugged in. its the only way i can use the ignition to start it... otherwords im stuff pop starting it. Im willing to do whatever it takes to make this work like factory.. I love this car and its not my only vehicle so down time is not a factor for me
02-08-2010, 09:18 AM
#5
Alrite..well this is what I would do if I were you..
First I would find someone to tune the PCM for a Manual setup.
Then I would start into the Wiring. Since you have the A4 Switch still in the car you are pretty much at the starting point.
I'm going to give you the same steps I took with mine, I have a 1995 car aswell so the interior wiring will be identical. The only thing that is different was I used a LS1 Harness, but I'll give you the necessary info to break your LT1 Harness down and have it correctly setup and functioning.
To start, take the Harness and strip it down to where you have all the wiring from the PCM Connectors, Wheel Well Connectors, Under-Dash Connectors, and everything to the Auto Tranny Connector exposed. Go to the BLUE PCM Connector, take the wire that is in PCM BLUE D6, and label this REVERSE LOCKOUT SIGNAL. Next go to the Auto Tranny Connector and trace the two Pink wires that are in it. One will go to the PCM, the other will go to the Wheel Well Connectors. Label the one that goes to the Wheel Well Connectors as TRANNY POWER, and remove the one that goes to the PCM. Once you have done this trace the two wires that you labeled REVERSE LOCKOUT SIGNAL & TRANNY POWER to the Auto Connector, clip them at the Connector, and set aside. Now take every other wire on the Auto Connector, follow it through the Harness, and remove them. Most of them will be in the PCM, carefully un-pin them and remove them.
Reverse Lights:
Start with an open Pin on the Harness Connectors that plug into each other under the Dash. Make sure that on both sides of the Connectors it's open. Wire that pin on both sides, and then wire it through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green(non power wire) on the Connector. It will help to have the Tranny to measure the length. I placed it about 6" down from the branch of wiring in the Harness that goes to the Transmission, made it about 12" in length. This will make your Reverse Lights work properly.
Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector (Speed Sensor), the wiring is about the same length. Take the green wire(non-power wire) from the Connector and connect it to the REVERSE LOCKOUT SIGNAL WIRE that you left in the Harness. This will make the Reverse Lockout function like it's factory when the Car is tuned for it.
Skip Shift: I didn't bother with this because I removed it from the Transmission.
Power: If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wire left. You are going to connect the pink wire to both of the pink wires on the Rev Lockout and Rev Light Connectors. Basically just butt-connect it to the wire Rev Lockout Connector, and then splice in the Rev Light Connector where it lines up on the Harness. This is the power for them 2 circuits.
Basically at this point you have removed all the Automatic Wiring and installed the Connectors for T56 Reverse Lockout, and T56 Reverse Lights. The VSS(Speed Sensor) stayed the same. Once everything is installed tape up all the wiring and loom it back up.
Next is the Interior wiring..
Basically with the Interior Wiring I removed all the Automatic Wiring and installed several things for the T56 Wiring. I wired the Reverse Lights, installed a Neutral Safety Switch for the T56, and I re-wired the Pedal Switches to dis-engage the Cruise Control as well.
Some of the wires in the Car will be power wires and they must be properly capped off if they are not removed.
Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch on the Shifter(Lime Green wire, can't really miss it..lol) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on the same pin that you installed on the Engine Harness side for the Reverse Lights.
Neutral Safety Switch:
To start dis-connect the purple wire from the Starter..you are going to be doing a little wire hunting. Make sure when you take it off it's not touching anything.
For your car since it's still stock wiring you are going to have to find the yellow wire on the Auto Shifter that is 12v hot when you turn the Key to START. Once you find this, then locate the brown wire that has 12v going through it when the Shifter is in Park or Neutral. Label those 2 wires and clip them from the Shifter. Every other wire on the shifter you can get rid of..some are 12v power wires so properly tape them up and isolate them.
As for the yellow and brown wires that you clipped and labeled, those will go to your Neutral Safety Switch on your Clutch Pedal.
**I did the N/S Switch a different way cause I had to remove the VATS Relay due to my LS Swap. This way should work for you though.
Cruise Dis-engage Switch on Clutch Petal:
There are 2 Switches on the Brake Pedal in these cars..one of the Switches has 2 Connectors going to it, the other has 1. The Switch with the 2 Connectors is for the Brake Lights(3-Wire Connector closest to Pedals), and for the Convertor Lock/Unlock. The smaller single-Connector Switch is used for the Cruise Control dis-engage.
What I did was move the smaller Switch over to the Clutch Petal, then I cut the Convertor Switch Wiring and wired that switch into the Cruise Control Switch wiring. Now what used to be the Convertor Lock/Unlock is now the Cruise Disengage on the Brake Petal. Since the car is now a Standard, this opens up this option, and it works like it did from the factory. For it to work right, both Switch Connectors must be wired in series with each other on the Cruise Control Circuit.
This bit of info should help you..it's everything that I did.
Here is my Swap Thread if you want to take a look at the pics I have too..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...onversion.html
First I would find someone to tune the PCM for a Manual setup.
Then I would start into the Wiring. Since you have the A4 Switch still in the car you are pretty much at the starting point.
I'm going to give you the same steps I took with mine, I have a 1995 car aswell so the interior wiring will be identical. The only thing that is different was I used a LS1 Harness, but I'll give you the necessary info to break your LT1 Harness down and have it correctly setup and functioning.
To start, take the Harness and strip it down to where you have all the wiring from the PCM Connectors, Wheel Well Connectors, Under-Dash Connectors, and everything to the Auto Tranny Connector exposed. Go to the BLUE PCM Connector, take the wire that is in PCM BLUE D6, and label this REVERSE LOCKOUT SIGNAL. Next go to the Auto Tranny Connector and trace the two Pink wires that are in it. One will go to the PCM, the other will go to the Wheel Well Connectors. Label the one that goes to the Wheel Well Connectors as TRANNY POWER, and remove the one that goes to the PCM. Once you have done this trace the two wires that you labeled REVERSE LOCKOUT SIGNAL & TRANNY POWER to the Auto Connector, clip them at the Connector, and set aside. Now take every other wire on the Auto Connector, follow it through the Harness, and remove them. Most of them will be in the PCM, carefully un-pin them and remove them.
Reverse Lights:
Start with an open Pin on the Harness Connectors that plug into each other under the Dash. Make sure that on both sides of the Connectors it's open. Wire that pin on both sides, and then wire it through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green(non power wire) on the Connector. It will help to have the Tranny to measure the length. I placed it about 6" down from the branch of wiring in the Harness that goes to the Transmission, made it about 12" in length. This will make your Reverse Lights work properly.
Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector (Speed Sensor), the wiring is about the same length. Take the green wire(non-power wire) from the Connector and connect it to the REVERSE LOCKOUT SIGNAL WIRE that you left in the Harness. This will make the Reverse Lockout function like it's factory when the Car is tuned for it.
Skip Shift: I didn't bother with this because I removed it from the Transmission.
Power: If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wire left. You are going to connect the pink wire to both of the pink wires on the Rev Lockout and Rev Light Connectors. Basically just butt-connect it to the wire Rev Lockout Connector, and then splice in the Rev Light Connector where it lines up on the Harness. This is the power for them 2 circuits.
Basically at this point you have removed all the Automatic Wiring and installed the Connectors for T56 Reverse Lockout, and T56 Reverse Lights. The VSS(Speed Sensor) stayed the same. Once everything is installed tape up all the wiring and loom it back up.
Next is the Interior wiring..
Basically with the Interior Wiring I removed all the Automatic Wiring and installed several things for the T56 Wiring. I wired the Reverse Lights, installed a Neutral Safety Switch for the T56, and I re-wired the Pedal Switches to dis-engage the Cruise Control as well.
Some of the wires in the Car will be power wires and they must be properly capped off if they are not removed.
Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch on the Shifter(Lime Green wire, can't really miss it..lol) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on the same pin that you installed on the Engine Harness side for the Reverse Lights.
Neutral Safety Switch:
To start dis-connect the purple wire from the Starter..you are going to be doing a little wire hunting. Make sure when you take it off it's not touching anything.
For your car since it's still stock wiring you are going to have to find the yellow wire on the Auto Shifter that is 12v hot when you turn the Key to START. Once you find this, then locate the brown wire that has 12v going through it when the Shifter is in Park or Neutral. Label those 2 wires and clip them from the Shifter. Every other wire on the shifter you can get rid of..some are 12v power wires so properly tape them up and isolate them.
As for the yellow and brown wires that you clipped and labeled, those will go to your Neutral Safety Switch on your Clutch Pedal.
**I did the N/S Switch a different way cause I had to remove the VATS Relay due to my LS Swap. This way should work for you though.
Cruise Dis-engage Switch on Clutch Petal:
There are 2 Switches on the Brake Pedal in these cars..one of the Switches has 2 Connectors going to it, the other has 1. The Switch with the 2 Connectors is for the Brake Lights(3-Wire Connector closest to Pedals), and for the Convertor Lock/Unlock. The smaller single-Connector Switch is used for the Cruise Control dis-engage.
What I did was move the smaller Switch over to the Clutch Petal, then I cut the Convertor Switch Wiring and wired that switch into the Cruise Control Switch wiring. Now what used to be the Convertor Lock/Unlock is now the Cruise Disengage on the Brake Petal. Since the car is now a Standard, this opens up this option, and it works like it did from the factory. For it to work right, both Switch Connectors must be wired in series with each other on the Cruise Control Circuit.
This bit of info should help you..it's everything that I did.
Here is my Swap Thread if you want to take a look at the pics I have too..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...onversion.html
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02-11-2010, 09:51 AM
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Alright thanks for the help. by chance would the PCM being tuned to A4 settings make me run rich while driving and drive rough in 6th gear? I changed the 02 sensors already my next choice was going to be the MAF sensor. O and I am buying an Aftermarket T56 crossmember, will that get rid of the clanking and rattling that sounds like my rear end bouncing around? ( they used stock 4L60 trans crossmember n welded a extension to bolt the trans up )
02-12-2010, 07:46 AM
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when idleing it will sometimes miss, then when in sixth gear it will act like in 6th gear trying to take off at a stop sign just bucks around... the torque arm does seem a little jiggly. that may be it but the trans mount it has just bounces around.
