Any input on this rear?
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From: Cheyenne, Wy
Any input on this rear? I will be blunt, I know almost NOTHING when it comes to rear ends. I still have the stock 10-bolt but with the mods I am doing I am probably going to shred it. I am looking for other options that will hold about 450rwhp on a track with slicks. Mprimary focus with this car is a daily driver that I take to the track every now and then so I dont plan on going much higher in power and I just need a rear that will hold up to what mods I have...
I was digging around and came across this....now like I said, I know NOTHING about rear ends so I am trying to learn here.
Will this work, can it be made to work, and if it doesnt work please educate me as to why not so I dont make the mistake again. Thanks!
http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=11702
I was digging around and came across this....now like I said, I know NOTHING about rear ends so I am trying to learn here.
Will this work, can it be made to work, and if it doesnt work please educate me as to why not so I dont make the mistake again. Thanks!
http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=11702
Wont bolt up, you will need to modify it. Looks like it would fit an old chevelle, and it has different bolt pattern then what you use.
To make it work, you need to cut the mounts off your old rear and weld them on to this one...gotta make sure there exact also. Since this rear doesnt have the mounting points for the TQ arm, you need to fab up a away to adjust the angle of the pinion.
To make it work, you need to cut the mounts off your old rear and weld them on to this one...gotta make sure there exact also. Since this rear doesnt have the mounting points for the TQ arm, you need to fab up a away to adjust the angle of the pinion.
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what bolt pattern would I use? they have a few more too but why wont it work? is it too long?
I know it would need to be modified, but if its only around 1100 bucks then I could have what I need welded on and still keep it cheap if it was possible couldnt I? Or is that too much to do?
I know it would need to be modified, but if its only around 1100 bucks then I could have what I need welded on and still keep it cheap if it was possible couldnt I? Or is that too much to do?
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here are the others...
http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=v...sub=!!Complete 9\" Fords With GM Metric Mounts
http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=v...sub=!!Complete 9\" Fords With GM Metric Mounts
What kind of budget do you have? Along with engine mods, a budget will limit what you can and can't afford.
If I had to do it all over again, I'd drop the 2k for a bolt-in ready Moser 9" or 12-bolt.
If I had to do it all over again, I'd drop the 2k for a bolt-in ready Moser 9" or 12-bolt.
here are the others...
http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=v...sub=!!Complete 9\" Fords With GM Metric Mounts
http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=v...sub=!!Complete 9\" Fords With GM Metric Mounts
To make it work, you will need to do this. He is using a Ford 8.8 but same principles applies to what you need done.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...8-8-build.html
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I HAD a good budget until I bought all my engine mods...that budget went away REALLY fast lol. I completely forgot about the weak 10-bolt until AFTER my purchases were made and now that I will be between 400 and 450rwhp, I know my rear is going to give out on me.
Due to my engine mods I am only sitting on another $1000 to $1200 MAYBE, and thats if I milk all my resources.
Due to my engine mods I am only sitting on another $1000 to $1200 MAYBE, and thats if I milk all my resources.
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It doesn't look like that comes with the 3rd member so you are not getting a complete rear end it looks like it is a complete rear end housing. Add 600 dollars for the 3rd member and add all of the fab to make it work = not worth it
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Strange S60 (9") with 3-channel ABS add-on and 35-spline Truetrac center section (PRSF05 & OPRS30) is $2500.00 catalog price direct, probably can get it for a little less. Moser 9" will run you closer to $2900.00 similarly equipped. Bummer is that you can get the housing or the center section but not both for where you are right now with the budget. Probably want to stay away from a spool or mini-spool setup, Detroit lockers are a mixed bag and take a little learning to get used to (especially when cornering under power). GM Trac-Lok will be characteristically similar to what you have now (clutch style). Wavetrac is the best of all worlds but it's over $800.00 by itself before you even buy the center section housing. Truetrac isn't great on ice/snow, etc. but is the next best thing to Wavetrac for a torque-sensitive differential.
A little right foot restraint while you save up more cash might be your best bet...
Look up the types of center section diff and decide what suits you best:
Locker
Clutch style (like factory)
Spool (drag/drift)
Electronic limited slip (speed sensitive, some traction control cars)
Geared (Truetrac, Wavetrac, Torsen)
Drop into a Moser or Strange 9" assembly and it's hard to go wrong...
Also, keep in mind you'll have to resize and rebalance the driveshaft or have one custom made ($320.00-$400.00 to have a new one made in high grade aluminum)
A little right foot restraint while you save up more cash might be your best bet...
Look up the types of center section diff and decide what suits you best:
Locker
Clutch style (like factory)
Spool (drag/drift)
Electronic limited slip (speed sensitive, some traction control cars)
Geared (Truetrac, Wavetrac, Torsen)
Drop into a Moser or Strange 9" assembly and it's hard to go wrong...
Also, keep in mind you'll have to resize and rebalance the driveshaft or have one custom made ($320.00-$400.00 to have a new one made in high grade aluminum)
Last edited by Gojira94; Feb 21, 2010 at 08:41 PM.