0 oil psi at idle
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wilmington NC
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ive got about 1000 miles on my stroker motor, and i was running non synthetic 20w-50 for break in, and i think from the back pressure and the infamous intake manifold leak it kept blowing out the rear seal on the manifold so im using 5w-30 and not having any oil leak problems now.
anyway, now that i switched my oil, when hot my oil psi eventually drops to 0 psi ( where as on 20w-50 it would get down to around 10) and makes my check gauge light come on. when i start my car is have 70-75psi oil pressure and it slowly drops when it warms up at idle. still very high psi anything above idle when the engine is warm but i just wanted some opinions about if i should worry that my gauge is reading 0psi. it kills me looking at it, i hate getting stuck at a stoplight.. and it makes it difficult to hear if there is anything damaging going on because of my cam and exhaust setup, but personally i dont think its hurting anything![Icon Neutral](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_neutral.gif)
on a side note i have heard the factory setup isnt very accurate. and im not using the factory pigtail i have a brass female 90 that threads onto the stem sticking out of the back of the block on one side and the sensor threads onto the other side. thoughts?
anyway, now that i switched my oil, when hot my oil psi eventually drops to 0 psi ( where as on 20w-50 it would get down to around 10) and makes my check gauge light come on. when i start my car is have 70-75psi oil pressure and it slowly drops when it warms up at idle. still very high psi anything above idle when the engine is warm but i just wanted some opinions about if i should worry that my gauge is reading 0psi. it kills me looking at it, i hate getting stuck at a stoplight.. and it makes it difficult to hear if there is anything damaging going on because of my cam and exhaust setup, but personally i dont think its hurting anything
![Icon Neutral](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_neutral.gif)
on a side note i have heard the factory setup isnt very accurate. and im not using the factory pigtail i have a brass female 90 that threads onto the stem sticking out of the back of the block on one side and the sensor threads onto the other side. thoughts?
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Embarassed](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_emb.gif)
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There is nothing wrong with using 20W-50 as this is exactly what I used on my motor for years (suggested by my builder) and I now use Synth 15Wx50. The only thing I can think would be a problem is the colder climate in NC as that 20W-50 during the winter would be think as hell. Not a problem for me down here in Houston.
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wilmington NC
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i was having electrical issues and my fans wern't coming on at all, and the 20w-50 seem to help everything run a little cooler. And i have 12.6:1 compression, it just seemed to like it better than the 5w-30. A local guy in my area that runs high 9s in his 383lt1 also reccommended it to me so i listened to him haha
thanks for info guys im gonna get a mechanical gauge soon
thanks for info guys im gonna get a mechanical gauge soon