Cam choice
I am guessing MY version of streetable and a lot of other people's isn't exactly the same. You don't have to do head/porting work, but I think its money well spent and a head/cam car is more likely to make a better number and be more streetable than a car making the same hp on just a big cam. I'd rather not have a big lopey idle myself or a car that responds poorly at lower RPM's, but I guess that's just personal preference. A big cam is probably also going to need a bigger rear gear and that's another thing to think about. I suppose what I am really getting at is that a big lopey cam might sound great, but in everyday driving may not be exactly what is expected performance wise.
Of course a heads/cam car is going to make more power than just a cam-only car...that's just common sense. The OP indicated he wanted the biggest cam he could get with stock heads, not that he wanted the biggest cam ever made - he was quite clear of that.
Aside from that, I agree with you. It's definitely money well spent, but isn't for everyone's performance and budget requirements.Seems like this post got off-track quite fast. The guy is new - lets give him a break (and at least he admitted it). When I didn't know any better, cammed LT1s sounded badass. When you're young, that **** is cool and impressive. I made the mistake of putting a huge cam on stock heads but hey...it sounded kick-***. Everyone was there once. At least the OP has the sense to say "best with stock heads."
OP, go with the CC503 and read the cam sticky at the top of the forum.
Yep, you are right, I missed the "best with stock heads part", and really was focusing on what seemed to be more of "what cam SOUNDS best" and will work okay with stock heads. My mistake there. I also do agree with the 503 as a good choice.
One last thing though.
When people here say “stock” heads, what they are referring to is an unmodified casting. You will still need to at a minimum, change your valve springs to something that works with your cam. I am also going to suggest that you measure the correct pushrod length and replace the stock stamped rockers while you’re at it. Replace the stock pushrods with a one piece design. Trick Flow makes them in various lengths to fit and they are less than $100 and in stock (not custom made). A 1.6 roller rocker will give you more lift than the stock stamped parts which are really more like 1.45’s. Hope that helps more than my original statement about head work.
One last thing though.
When people here say “stock” heads, what they are referring to is an unmodified casting. You will still need to at a minimum, change your valve springs to something that works with your cam. I am also going to suggest that you measure the correct pushrod length and replace the stock stamped rockers while you’re at it. Replace the stock pushrods with a one piece design. Trick Flow makes them in various lengths to fit and they are less than $100 and in stock (not custom made). A 1.6 roller rocker will give you more lift than the stock stamped parts which are really more like 1.45’s. Hope that helps more than my original statement about head work.
Seems like this post got off-track quite fast. The guy is new - lets give him a break (and at least he admitted it). When I didn't know any better, cammed LT1s sounded badass. When you're young, that **** is cool and impressive. I made the mistake of putting a huge cam on stock heads but hey...it sounded kick-***. Everyone was there once. At least the OP has the sense to say "best with stock heads."
OP, go with the CC503 and read the cam sticky at the top of the forum.
OP, go with the CC503 and read the cam sticky at the top of the forum.
Yep, you are right, I missed the "best with stock heads part", and really was focusing on what seemed to be more of "what cam SOUNDS best" and will work okay with stock heads. My mistake there. I also do agree with the 503 as a good choice.
One last thing though.
When people here say “stock” heads, what they are referring to is an unmodified casting. You will still need to at a minimum, change your valve springs to something that works with your cam. I am also going to suggest that you measure the correct pushrod length and replace the stock stamped rockers while you’re at it. Replace the stock pushrods with a one piece design. Trick Flow makes them in various lengths to fit and they are less than $100 and in stock (not custom made). A 1.6 roller rocker will give you more lift than the stock stamped parts which are really more like 1.45’s. Hope that helps more than my original statement about head work.
One last thing though.
When people here say “stock” heads, what they are referring to is an unmodified casting. You will still need to at a minimum, change your valve springs to something that works with your cam. I am also going to suggest that you measure the correct pushrod length and replace the stock stamped rockers while you’re at it. Replace the stock pushrods with a one piece design. Trick Flow makes them in various lengths to fit and they are less than $100 and in stock (not custom made). A 1.6 roller rocker will give you more lift than the stock stamped parts which are really more like 1.45’s. Hope that helps more than my original statement about head work.
That makes sense. Your definition of "head work" and mine were different. I thought porting, you thought hardware. All the same,
Naw, you're right. I was talking about porting the heads. I'd honestly never spend money building a car and not have the heads ported. I only paid $400 to get mine ported locally with a 3 angle valve job. Best $400 ever spent. That being said, it still wasn't what the OP asked. I definitely want the OP to realize that you can't just slap a cam into a motor with everything else being stock and expect the motor to be reliable. Bigger cams (just like everything else) has supporting mods that should be done. I learned this myself the hard way and hope to save someone else the same grief
Jazz what kind of work was done?
Im looking at doing an lt4 hotcam and getting my heads opened up a little bit locally with new rockers and springs and all, but people are saying if im doing that to go witha bigger cam because the lt4 wont be sufficient if i do that?
What cam would you run with light head work? Given its a DD so driveability is key!
Im looking at doing an lt4 hotcam and getting my heads opened up a little bit locally with new rockers and springs and all, but people are saying if im doing that to go witha bigger cam because the lt4 wont be sufficient if i do that?
What cam would you run with light head work? Given its a DD so driveability is key!
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im building a car right now its a completly stripped 96 trans am ...for now im going witha cam and spray car while i finish the suspension and ect....so im trying to decide wat cam to get ...i want the biggest baddest but best cam for a streetable set up with stock heads ...i want a really loppy cam and to sound mean ....im a lil new to the internals part of the f-bodys so bare with me
..........but I'm bored and just have to throw out one more dig at you:
Don't be coming on here getting all "loppy" and asking people to "bare" with you........you could get banned for soliciting!.........lol!
You need the cam, springs, rockers, retainers, locks, seats, pushrods, guideplates (if you plan on a non self-aligning setup, highly recommended), non self-aligning rocker arms in the 1.6 ratio, a new timing chain (including the sprockets), and lifters if yours have wear or alot of mileage (LS7s preferred). You can also upgrade to 7/16" rocker studs too...just make sure you get the rockers for 7/16" studs.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 1
From: South Dakota
a custom grind cam is always gunna be the best!! hands down. the price is the same. off the shelf is one size fits all. engines arent vagina's. u shouldn't just stick anything u think is big in there.
most of any chicks will tell u, it's not the size its how its worked !!
most of any chicks will tell u, it's not the size its how its worked !!
You need the cam, springs, rockers, retainers, locks, seats, pushrods, guideplates (if you plan on a non self-aligning setup, highly recommended), non self-aligning rocker arms in the 1.6 ratio, a new timing chain (including the sprockets), and lifters if yours have wear or alot of mileage (LS7s preferred). You can also upgrade to 7/16" rocker studs too...just make sure you get the rockers for 7/16" studs.
hahaha thats sig worthy!
Originally Posted by Jazz-LT1
I only paid $400 to get mine ported locally with a 3 angle valve job. Best $400 ever spent.
