Alternator VS Valve cover
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On The Tree
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Alternator VS Valve cover Built my 1995 LT1 out of a vette (not sure if it matters for brackets or anything) into a 383. The new valve covers do not allow the alternator to clear by 1/8 of an inch. Instead of being ghetto and denting my valve cover, do any of you know of anything else I can do? Does anyone make an alternator with a smaller case?
This is the new valve covers that are not allow the stock alternator to clear.
This is the part that is hitting.
This is the new valve covers that are not allow the stock alternator to clear.
This is the part that is hitting.
You would probably need to find a used one. Even if you use the f-body bracket youll need to grind the alt or notch/dent the VC
This is the speedinc one hides the alt all together and you can run any VC you want
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...elocation-kits
This is the speedinc one hides the alt all together and you can run any VC you want
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...elocation-kits
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On The Tree
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I called Speedinc. Their LT1 relocation bracket is $500... bit high in my opinion.
I am trying to figure out which one of the kits on the second link you posted I will need. I am running power steering and AC. The only thing I need to relocate is the alternator... but since they are mounted to the same bracket do I need to buy the one for 500 that relocates both of them?
I am trying to figure out which one of the kits on the second link you posted I will need. I am running power steering and AC. The only thing I need to relocate is the alternator... but since they are mounted to the same bracket do I need to buy the one for 500 that relocates both of them?
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
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Never mind - I called and they said I had to get the one to relocate everything. What are your guys opinion. The car is done up for show a bit, should I relocate everything to clean up the engine bay or is 475$ a bit much? Am I better off just buying the F-body accessory bracket?
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On The Tree
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I read that if you simply unbolt alternator and rotate the case to allow the recessed part of the alt to be where current spot of conflict is and then just put the alt back togeather you are good to go.
cost = $0
...but in your pic you note the most recessed part already hits...
other option is Composite LT4 valve covers which I hear are getting hard to come by.
or just stock VC that have been trimed inside...to clear COMP Pro Mags RR
cost = $0
...but in your pic you note the most recessed part already hits...
other option is Composite LT4 valve covers which I hear are getting hard to come by.
or just stock VC that have been trimed inside...to clear COMP Pro Mags RR
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Savannah,Ga.
yes but i never done this before...saw it done on here(in pics) try to do a search..but like i said it is on the passenger side..dont know the difference in the spot u will have to grind vs them..good luck.
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On The Tree
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The prices for most of these parts are rather high. The relocation kit is looking like what I'll have to buy. Heck, the ugly LT4 composite ones, people are asking 270 for them used... Any other ideas or am I stuck with the relocation bracket. The motor is a 383 in a El Camino...
do a search on the alt grinding. I've done it and I have absolutely no issues even on my DD. Takes a little bit of time with a dremel and the alt and you're good. This will solve all your problems
The prices for most of these parts are rather high. The relocation kit is looking like what I'll have to buy. Heck, the ugly LT4 composite ones, people are asking 270 for them used... Any other ideas or am I stuck with the relocation bracket. The motor is a 383 in a El Camino...
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2007
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dang guys... Look at my pictures of the car. I guess I will have to grind it. It looks like the relocation bracket will be pushing everything into my power steering and frame since the LT is in a G-body, not an F-body...
