Help needed, car being a PITA
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 112
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From: West Lafayette In
Help needed, car being a PITA So after the build from hell... everything was running really smooth.. motor felt like it was running smooth, clutch felt amazing... was running open headers till i could get to the exhaust shop.. once i left the exhaust shop thats when it all seemed to start going downhill. When i picked the car up and first started i knew something wasnt right.. the header was now hitting the kmember.. told them it wasnt like that before, they put it back up in the air and pulled the header off the kmember... it was better since then which was yesterday.. today went to drive the car (saturday).. really bad vibrations going through the car at idle.. the clutch also feels a little differ then the days before.. there is some vibrations coming from the trans or clutch. when i push in the clutch they stop but when i engage it in neutral it i get the vibs again... while driving only at lower rpms do i get alot of vibrations from the trans/clutch.. shifts are smooth and fine with no slop... the mods i just did; poly motor mounts, lpp long tube headers to lpp ory, poly trans mount, spec 2+clutch, spec al flywheel, spec pressure plate, new radiator, tb bypass, new fuel filter, oil cooler delete... i know that with poly motor and trans mounts they will transmit vib through the car more.. but for the first two days of driving.. the car felt amazing.. and today.. it just hasnt been the same... i dont like it... the car feels like crap... help guys.. what could be the prob.. i want the car to feel how it did before the exhaust was finished lol...
if its a new clutch did you break it in right? and you would know if the trans was in wrong it would not work.... poly mounts do vibrate its like any other part was they break in or settle thats when you get the real effect
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: West Lafayette In
ohhh its hard to drive the car knowing that i cant get on it with all the new stuff added... i know you ahve to baby the car for 500 miles to break the clutch in.. 500 in town miles..
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Launching!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 280
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From: bodymore
Sounds like it's just starting to break in / needs to finish breaking in.
I got my clutch done in January and while I didn't like how grabby it was at first, I miss how grabby it was after it broke in. Literally moved the pedal a quarter inch and it was fully engaged, lol. Heavy too. Felt like a race car!
And like everyone else said, rubber is better at keeping vibrations out of the inside. Poly or solid mounts will make it worse.
Our cars are just louder and more vibration prone, I'm sure of it. My car has nothing wrong and it always made a vibration in neutral that would stop when I pushed the clutch in or when I was in gear with clutch in.
I got my clutch done in January and while I didn't like how grabby it was at first, I miss how grabby it was after it broke in. Literally moved the pedal a quarter inch and it was fully engaged, lol. Heavy too. Felt like a race car!
And like everyone else said, rubber is better at keeping vibrations out of the inside. Poly or solid mounts will make it worse.
Our cars are just louder and more vibration prone, I'm sure of it. My car has nothing wrong and it always made a vibration in neutral that would stop when I pushed the clutch in or when I was in gear with clutch in.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 112
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From: West Lafayette In
what i thought it weird.. that the clutch doesnt seem much different from a stock 116k mile clutch, pp, and flywheel as my new spec 2+, new pp, and al flywheel... i have driven a ta with the same clutch and al flywheel and his didnt feel much different than mine from stock to his before the install.. i figured with such a better clutch it would be differ...
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 280
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From: bodymore
It would be really grabby at first and over time it will settle down to more stock. These cars have no on car clutch adjustment either so as it wears down the engagement point in the pedal travel will rise (you have to let the pedal out further and further.)
A stage 2 is just a bit beefier than OEM, isn't it? So it wouldn't be ridiculously grabby like a race car after it breaks in, right? It really sounds like normal breaking in. It engages almost instantly at first, then after a week or two, you gotta let the pedal out a little bit more and more and over time you gotta let it out further until you need a new clutch.
A stage 2 is just a bit beefier than OEM, isn't it? So it wouldn't be ridiculously grabby like a race car after it breaks in, right? It really sounds like normal breaking in. It engages almost instantly at first, then after a week or two, you gotta let the pedal out a little bit more and more and over time you gotta let it out further until you need a new clutch.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 112
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From: West Lafayette In
another thing that i really dont like about my car... and i havent driven another z28 6 speed is that my engagement is almost all the way out on the pedal.. anyone else like this?.. ive driven a ta with a new slave cylinder and same clutch flywheel set up mine has on it, and there is no play in the clutch petal at all.. he has about 3.5 in of travel total where as mine has like 12 in it feels like lol..