My LT1 Trans Am
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: From NJ, in WV for school
My LT1 Trans Am Well, here's the rundown. Bought a Cherry Red Met. 1995 Pontiac Trans Am off this guy in MD for $4500 (as stock as stock can get, at least for the first week 
). LT1, 6-speed T56 Trans, leather, premium sound system, T-Tops, clean.
Now, I've heard from some people the 10-bolt is pretty bad for racing (plans are to go autox/road course/drag combo on this car) and that it'll probably grenade on this car, given it's the original with over 208k. I know this diff is leaking fluid (more of a seeping than dripping) and will need at least a gasket, and was wondering, should I go ahead and fix what I have, or just throw a 12-bolt in there and then sell the 10-bolt and call it a day? If I go 12-bolt or 10-bolt, what's the specs on the stock rear (splines? any other pertinent info? maybe even recommended parts?)
Mods, sorry if this was answered in a sticky or such.
- JR
Oh yeah, in the first week, logged my first two kills (1980's mustang 5.0 w/ mods, and a ricer with an integra who got on my last nerve). Plus, a couple deaths (ls1/supercharged/bottle (200???)/nitto 555's, and a 'stang mach 1 w/ 150 shot).
). LT1, 6-speed T56 Trans, leather, premium sound system, T-Tops, clean.Now, I've heard from some people the 10-bolt is pretty bad for racing (plans are to go autox/road course/drag combo on this car) and that it'll probably grenade on this car, given it's the original with over 208k. I know this diff is leaking fluid (more of a seeping than dripping) and will need at least a gasket, and was wondering, should I go ahead and fix what I have, or just throw a 12-bolt in there and then sell the 10-bolt and call it a day? If I go 12-bolt or 10-bolt, what's the specs on the stock rear (splines? any other pertinent info? maybe even recommended parts?)
Mods, sorry if this was answered in a sticky or such.
- JR
Oh yeah, in the first week, logged my first two kills (1980's mustang 5.0 w/ mods, and a ricer with an integra who got on my last nerve). Plus, a couple deaths (ls1/supercharged/bottle (200???)/nitto 555's, and a 'stang mach 1 w/ 150 shot).
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: From NJ, in WV for school
But yeah, for a stock LT1 to lose to that ... well, I'd hope for the other drivers' sake, that I lost.
EDIT> Just as an fyi, I ran the VIN on a decoder, and it came up with that I have the 3.42 : 1 ratio. If that helps any.
When you upgrade to a 12-bolt, the only thing that is reused are the brakes. The axles, housing, gears, etc., and everything else is completely different, so you don't really need to know anything about the stock rear.
FWIW, traction is what kills the 10-bolt. For auto-x, I wouldn't be too concerned. I'd only be concerned if it was going to see track-use with a sticky tire and an M6.
FWIW, traction is what kills the 10-bolt. For auto-x, I wouldn't be too concerned. I'd only be concerned if it was going to see track-use with a sticky tire and an M6.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: From NJ, in WV for school
When you upgrade to a 12-bolt, the only thing that is reused are the brakes. The axles, housing, gears, etc., and everything else is completely different, so you don't really need to know anything about the stock rear.
FWIW, traction is what kills the 10-bolt. For auto-x, I wouldn't be too concerned. I'd only be concerned if it was going to see track-use with a sticky tire and an M6.
FWIW, traction is what kills the 10-bolt. For auto-x, I wouldn't be too concerned. I'd only be concerned if it was going to see track-use with a sticky tire and an M6.
Once again, thanks!
- JR
It's one of those things man you can do mods a number of ways. You can do all the power stuff first and then deal with parts breaking or you can tuffen up the parts that need to be tuff first and enjoy not having to ***** foot it so you don't break anything. trans and rears on these cars can make up a lot of time on the track. Changing the rear so you have the gears you want in it ( just remember it takes more power to turn a 12 or 9inch rear), or building a tuff 4l60E with a good stall speed, or rear control arm relocation brakets. these all make time up on the track with out adding a lick or HP or torque from the engine.
Other then changing the gears if you want none. There is really no point in putting money in the 10 bolt if your m6 and going to the track with sticky tires. I would start with basic bolt-ons and suspension mods and it'll be a different car
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