on my 94 z ive got gmmg catback, moroso cai, highflow cat which came with a 1/4 inch bigger y-pipe, and a shift kit. whats should next mod be besides headers. i dont want to spend the money right now and the instalations a bitch. should i get a MAS, throttle body ? little help here thanks.

 

If you don't want to spend the money right now, save it, and get something worth your while. MAF and throttle body won't get you much, if anything at all with your mild amount of mods.

 

How about a tune to your PCM for your current mods?

 

You don't need to change the MAF ever unless it's bad the stock one is fine. With the mods you have now a throttle body wont really do anything. I know you don't want to hear it but headers would be one of the best things to do. Since you're auto you can do gears or a stall or suspension stuff. Like ss#502 said you could always do a tune for what you have now

 

Tune, headers, stall, gears. Or even suspension.

 

If you tell us your budget it would be easier to help. . I would recommend a 3500+ stall converter or headers.

 

do you mean i should get a dyno tune or a mail order tune?

 

n i t r o u s

 

Sub Frame Connectors.

 

I would say start on the suspension until your ready to do the headers. Then do the headers and get a mail order tune.

 

+1

 

Stay away from mail order tunes unless you have no other option.

If you drive your car hard you need SFC's at a minimum or you will twist the body.

You do not need a maf or tb with the min mods you have. I'd worry about those when and if you do a HCI package. Headers alone will not net you much HP since you are only opening up one side of the engine. I would do headers at the same time the hci swap was done.

My order of mods would be:

1. Subframe connectors to stiffen the body. it doesn't take much power to twist a uni-body

2. converter

3. at this time with added power and tq you will most likely be in need of a tranny rebuild. get it beefed up. 4L60e's can barely handle the power of the stock LT1

4. gears

5. any other suspension mods common to the f-body

6. nitrous

7. heads, cam and TB and at this time headers. more air in needs more air out.

8. stroked and forged bottom end.

 

I agree on the suspension route...I went full bolt-on before doing any suspension. After doing subframe connectors (I did 3 points), torque arm relocation w/ new torque arm, and LCA's - I felt a world of a difference! The power actually makes it to the ground, and the car is so controlled and far more predictable.

If you want to do a little HP mod, I would reccommend an electric water pump. It should free up a couple ponies and help out with cooling a little bit. Install is cake too. Good luck!

 

Mail order tunes are fine for bolt on cars, im pretty sure that our most popular tuners have done more than enough bolt on cars (mail order and dyno) to be pretty accurate with their tunes.

Headers are probably the biggest bolt on HP gain that there is (stock manifolds are a restriction even in stock form)

you will never need an aftermarket MAF, and unless you do a really nasty heads/cam combo you wont need a TB either.

put in a quality Trans cooler with the stall and your trans will be fine, i had a couple hundred passes on my stock trans in my 96 and i have a friend that has over 500 on his with a 3200 stall. when/if the trans starts to slip is when i would have it rebuilt.

 

Most sneaky, lethal combo;
Ls1 Lid
1.6 rr,pac springs
Full exhaust w/quiet muffler
Full suspension,Tq arm,SFC,LCAs etc.
Drag Radials
Tune
150 shot

 

I concur, drag radials and n2o will get you deep into the 12's so bang for the buck n2o all the way.

 

you can toss n2o on it and be fast and run 12s or you can do full bolt ons first and run 12s and then spray to 11s..i would do bolt ons,stall,suspension,gears and dr's..last would be juice..any top level n2o engine builder like fulton,naiser,r&m,nelson an such will tell you tune the motor to the most n/a power you can get out of it in n2o trim and then spray..

on a stock motor only getting 150 shot or so..n2o trim dont really happen..

 

That advice is pretty terrible. If he doesn't want to do a header install and spend that kind of money to pay someone to do it what makes you think he's got the money for all this stuff or wants to do it himself? And by the way mail order tunes are GREAT for bolton cars. When you get into cam timing, and fuel changes, that's when things get hairy. I mail order tune is good for 13-15 rwhp on stock cars and with a few boltons it could be a little more...not to meantion Bryan Herter and Ion Sultan (pcmforless.com and madtuner.com) can help out fuel economy, help the car run smoother, and again more hp. That should be the first thing you do from this point. And then when you add more you can get a retune for like $50. Well worth the money. You don't really need any kind of suspension at this stage other than maybe a set of control arms and maybe subframes if you want to stiffen the car up. UMI sells a 3 point bolt-in subframe that I would reccomend. I had them on my TA and LOVED the way the car felt. Nice firm ride and easy install. Only took like 30 minutes. Anyways that's pretty much the way to go and I'd stay away from nitrous for now. To do it right it costs money. You can get cheap kits yes...but if you do start saving up for a new bottom end.

 

If you reread his post he said his order would be. He not telling the OP to do everything that's just a good order to go it. That being said suspension will help you at any power level. You don't have to have a high hp car to need suspension work.

 

LCA relocation. it's cheap, easy and noticeable.