A multi faceted LT1 Thread
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Rockstar
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From: I'm on a boat! in Shreveport, La
A multi faceted LT1 Thread So, I just got my Vert out of the shop, with a completely rebuilt and beefed up transmission and a shift kit.
It drives so damn good now, even compared to when it was working before it went out.
During normal driving now It chirps the tires 1-2 shift.
I broke the trans mount earlier, I had replaced it about 6 months ago, kindof a routine for me.
I went to the auto store to get one and the kid said that doesn't sound normal.
Anyways, what do you other LT1 guys making obscene amounts of power do about that? Use a better rubber mount? Or use a poly mount? Or just deal with it as needed.
Secondly, my rear tires are just about gone, and I want to keep the stock salad shooters. Their size is 16"x8", what is the widest tire any of you would squeeze on the backs without feeling unsafe?
EDIT: I should also mention that the Optispark in the hardtop bit the dust in traffic today. So to the guys with experience, is it any easier to replace if you take off the front bumper and components?
It drives so damn good now, even compared to when it was working before it went out.
During normal driving now It chirps the tires 1-2 shift.
I broke the trans mount earlier, I had replaced it about 6 months ago, kindof a routine for me.
I went to the auto store to get one and the kid said that doesn't sound normal.
Anyways, what do you other LT1 guys making obscene amounts of power do about that? Use a better rubber mount? Or use a poly mount? Or just deal with it as needed.
Secondly, my rear tires are just about gone, and I want to keep the stock salad shooters. Their size is 16"x8", what is the widest tire any of you would squeeze on the backs without feeling unsafe?
EDIT: I should also mention that the Optispark in the hardtop bit the dust in traffic today. So to the guys with experience, is it any easier to replace if you take off the front bumper and components?
Last edited by Johnny-LT1-runner; Apr 10, 2010 at 06:34 PM.
So, I just got my Vert out of the shop, with a completely rebuilt and beefed up transmission and a shift kit.
It drives so damn good now, even compared to when it was working before it went out.
During normal driving now It chirps the tires 1-2 shift.
I broke the trans mount earlier, I had replaced it about 6 months ago, kindof a routine for me.
I went to the auto store to get one and the kid said that doesn't sound normal.
Anyways, what do you other LT1 guys making obscene amounts of power do about that? Use a better rubber mount? Or use a poly mount? Or just deal with it as needed.
Secondly, my rear tires are just about gone, and I want to keep the stock salad shooters. Their size is 16"x8", what is the widest tire any of you would squeeze on the backs without feeling unsafe?
EDIT: I should also mention that the Optispark in the hardtop bit the dust in traffic today. So to the guys with experience, is it any easier to replace if you take off the front bumper and components?
It drives so damn good now, even compared to when it was working before it went out.
During normal driving now It chirps the tires 1-2 shift.
I broke the trans mount earlier, I had replaced it about 6 months ago, kindof a routine for me.
I went to the auto store to get one and the kid said that doesn't sound normal.
Anyways, what do you other LT1 guys making obscene amounts of power do about that? Use a better rubber mount? Or use a poly mount? Or just deal with it as needed.
Secondly, my rear tires are just about gone, and I want to keep the stock salad shooters. Their size is 16"x8", what is the widest tire any of you would squeeze on the backs without feeling unsafe?
EDIT: I should also mention that the Optispark in the hardtop bit the dust in traffic today. So to the guys with experience, is it any easier to replace if you take off the front bumper and components?
One more thing i like to do is clean the water pump bolts up with a wire wheel on a drill or something and put rtv on the threads because coolant can leak out from them. And make sure to lock tite the rotor on your new opti!
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2006
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I have an energy suspensions poly motor and trans mounts...they have around 8k hard mileage on them and are fine. My car is full boltons, small cam, and stall converter with a built transmission.
what the guy said before about the opti is correct, if you have a 93-94 lt1, the opti drive is splined and can only go in one way. the 95-97 lt1s have a dowel pin that can go in three slots in the cam, make sure you mark it when it comes out. You will also need a inverted torx for the opti..i think it is the e6 or e8 socket, they had it at autozone for a few bucks. Correct me if I am wrong, it is for all of the bolts including the distributor cover in order to loctite the rotor in the opti.
what the guy said before about the opti is correct, if you have a 93-94 lt1, the opti drive is splined and can only go in one way. the 95-97 lt1s have a dowel pin that can go in three slots in the cam, make sure you mark it when it comes out. You will also need a inverted torx for the opti..i think it is the e6 or e8 socket, they had it at autozone for a few bucks. Correct me if I am wrong, it is for all of the bolts including the distributor cover in order to loctite the rotor in the opti.
I have an energy suspensions poly motor and trans mounts...they have around 8k hard mileage on them and are fine. My car is full boltons, small cam, and stall converter with a built transmission.
what the guy said before about the opti is correct, if you have a 93-94 lt1, the opti drive is splined and can only go in one way. the 95-97 lt1s have a dowel pin that can go in three slots in the cam, make sure you mark it when it comes out. You will also need a inverted torx for the opti..i think it is the e6 or e8 socket, they had it at autozone for a few bucks. Correct me if I am wrong, it is for all of the bolts including the distributor cover in order to loctite the rotor in the opti.
what the guy said before about the opti is correct, if you have a 93-94 lt1, the opti drive is splined and can only go in one way. the 95-97 lt1s have a dowel pin that can go in three slots in the cam, make sure you mark it when it comes out. You will also need a inverted torx for the opti..i think it is the e6 or e8 socket, they had it at autozone for a few bucks. Correct me if I am wrong, it is for all of the bolts including the distributor cover in order to loctite the rotor in the opti.
Depending on the outside elements and how hard you are on your drivetrain completely dictates the life of your trans mount. If you introduce ample shock to the drivetrain then that will put a lot of stress on the components.
Keep the stock sized tires on those wheels. Much more effective footprint.
Take the fan shroud off to get to the opti. You'll have all the room you need.
Keep the stock sized tires on those wheels. Much more effective footprint.
Take the fan shroud off to get to the opti. You'll have all the room you need.
Thread Starter
Rockstar
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,582
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From: I'm on a boat! in Shreveport, La
Depending on the outside elements and how hard you are on your drivetrain completely dictates the life of your trans mount. If you introduce ample shock to the drivetrain then that will put a lot of stress on the components.
Keep the stock sized tires on those wheels. Much more effective footprint.
Take the fan shroud off to get to the opti. You'll have all the room you need.
Keep the stock sized tires on those wheels. Much more effective footprint.
Take the fan shroud off to get to the opti. You'll have all the room you need.
One last thing, does anyone else with a stock lt1 head unit know if they light up other than the clock, i.e. the buttons and white words on them? I know LS1 HU's do, but I haven't seen another LT1 stock HU for reference.
