LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

95 M6 PCM in 97 M6 car??

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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 04:29 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this, but there is NO SUCH THING as an LT4 knock sensor. There is an OBDI knock sensor, OBDII knock sensor, LT1 knock module, and the LT4 knock module.
Yeah, that is what I said it looked like above from listed part numbers. I wasn't 100% sure if it was same for all OBD2 or if maybe a LT4 sensor superceded for all OBD2 ones. It's good to see that they are (& were) all the same for 96+. The reason I had brought up an LT4 knock sensor in the first place was someone's post (somewhere on this forum) about swapping to LT4 module and sensor at the same time. Anyway, I plan on just swapping my knock sensor for the OBD1 style and throwing the 95 PCM in....then getting a friend to make the tuning changes for the EGR!, CAGS!, 160* T-stat, and, 4.10's. Is the AIR! anything to tune for? I don't think it throws any codes. Not sure.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by flame
In case you don't know it threads into a coolant passage in the block so be prepared to have antifreeze running down your arm.
Thanks for the warning. I wouldn't have known for sure if I hadn't read it last night in a thread about someone breaking off their sensor. They mentioned drilling it out, and several people replied that he should use a cordless drill. I'm sure he appreciates that warning alot. That would be an aweful way to go.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 10:28 AM
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I have a '96 Z28 that I'm interested in converting to a obd 1 car. I've read this thread, but it never seemed clear to me as to what exactly was needed.

Things needed:
obd 1 pcm
obd 1 knock sensors

Is that all?
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Old May 4, 2011 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Emoney81
I have a '96 Z28 that I'm interested in converting to a obd 1 car. I've read this thread, but it never seemed clear to me as to what exactly was needed.

Things needed:
obd 1 pcm
obd 1 knock sensors

Is that all?
Yes, but if your car is modded, then you will need a tune in your new obd1 pcm. If it's stock and you get one that is already programmed for the same trans and gear ratio then you are good to go. In other words...there are 3 different "primary" tunes so if you can get a pcm that matches your car already do it: 1. A4 with 2.73's. 2. A4 with 3.23's 3. M6 with 3.42's. (There were also early M6's with 3.23's, but I'm not sure if that was 93 only?...thinking it went into 94.) Also, anyone who can tune the obd1 pcm car take care of if your new pcm doesn't match pretty easily. There is only one knock sensor that you need to replace. It is in front of the starter in the side of the block. Drain your coolant first and be prepared for a good shower of antifreeze running down your arm even after you drain it. LOL

I've been running my 97 M6 SS off a 95 pcm from a M6 Trans Am. My car is a 3 channel ABS...it was a 4 channel, but that didn't make any difference. The only problem I had was that my rear gears were already swapped to 4.10 and I'd deleted EGR. A friend took care of that in the obd1 pcm with tunercat.

There are zero wiring mods to make. Just disconnect the battery, swap the knock sensor, swap the pcm, reconnect the battery and you're done. I didn't even think to disconnect the battery and had no problems, but I'd advise against leaving it powered.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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You can also tune out the knock sensor and need no knock sensor, and only a module of either origin just to complete the circuit.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WS Sick
You can also tune out the knock sensor and need no knock sensor, and only a module of either origin just to complete the circuit.
Safely tuning out a knock sensor requires running less timing than optimum to be safe from detonation. Otherwise with a KS you could raise the timing and in that rare instance it detonates even on a perfect normally knock free tune, it can pull the timing to save it.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by LSWHO
Safely tuning out a knock sensor requires running less timing than optimum to be safe from detonation. Otherwise with a KS you could raise the timing and in that rare instance it detonates even on a perfect normally knock free tune, it can pull the timing to save it.
I don't know how we did it without EFi for so long.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by WS Sick
I don't know how we did it without EFi for so long.
I guess you left the timing and carb set completely like stock. That definitely sounds plausible.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LSWHO
I guess you left the timing and carb set completely like stock. That definitely sounds plausible.
Nope the first thing you do is bump up the timing (and change springsand weights need full timing at 3500 ya know) and change jets.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by WS Sick
Nope the first thing you do is bump up the timing (and change springsand weights need full timing at 3500 ya know) and change jets.
So you disagree with me and think that when tuning out knock sensors you should tune it to the brink of knock? That sounds totally safe.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by LSWHO
So you disagree with me and think that when tuning out knock sensors you should tune it to the brink of knock? That sounds totally safe.
Yep my vast line of blown motors in my shop floor attest to my stupidity.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by WS Sick
Yep my vast line of blown motors in my shop floor attest to my stupidity.
At this point I can not tell if you are being sarcastic or not. I'll just sideline myself.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 04:15 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by LSWHO
At this point I can not tell if you are being sarcastic or not. I'll just sideline myself.
Sarcasm is a trait, at least thats what my granny tells me.

But seriously i agree with you partly that for your everyday drive around program to be on the conservative side , if the KS is tuned out, but I allways go agggresive when I know the quality of fuel.

For instance (I have tunercats and a wideband) when I drive to work or around town on 91 I do like you suggested and though the curve itself is somewhat aggressive the total timing would be about 4 or so down. When I am at the track I have a different program I load since I am running 100 plus unl.

In addition, if you don't want to take the time and tune your stuff for differnt situations you shoudnt be jacking with stuff...lol

Last edited by WS Sick; May 4, 2011 at 04:17 PM. Reason: additional thought
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Old May 4, 2011 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by socal
why not just do the efi connection thing and be able to use hp tuners and stay obd2 legal

http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/default.aspx
and it's not legal. it eliminates EGR which the PCM cannot control on the lt1.
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