Double roller
Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 127
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From: Brockton, Massachusetts
Double roller I'm looking for opinions on the best double roller timing chain set for a 1996 LT1. I had a LT4 hevy duty set and it stretched in like 10,000 miles. I'm not looking for the most expensive set on the market, but the LT4 set is like $275 so I know I can get a better set than that for about the same price. Thanks.
For a double roller, it needs to be deleted. There's no way around it.
Deleting it won't cause any harm. It's only used for detecting misfires and won't affect how the car runs. You can have it programmed out.
Deleting it won't cause any harm. It's only used for detecting misfires and won't affect how the car runs. You can have it programmed out.
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The OP has an OBDII car.
OBDII crank hub assembly goes like this:
Pulley + crank hub + CPS reluctor gear + crank gear.
OBDI crank hub looks like this:
Pulley + crank hub + crank gear.
The OBDII crank hub is slightly shorter because it has to fit the CPS reluctor ring while keeping the same overall depth. There are two options...use a 93-95 hub or shim your 96+ hub (I would just use a 93-95 hub).
Been there, done that.
OBDII crank hub assembly goes like this:
Pulley + crank hub + CPS reluctor gear + crank gear.
OBDI crank hub looks like this:
Pulley + crank hub + crank gear.
The OBDII crank hub is slightly shorter because it has to fit the CPS reluctor ring while keeping the same overall depth. There are two options...use a 93-95 hub or shim your 96+ hub (I would just use a 93-95 hub).
Been there, done that.
The OP has an OBDII car.
OBDII crank hub assembly goes like this:
Pulley + crank hub + CPS reluctor gear + crank gear.
OBDI crank hub looks like this:
Pulley + crank hub + crank gear.
The OBDII crank hub is slightly shorter because it has to fit the CPS reluctor ring while keeping the same overall depth. There are two options...use a 93-95 hub or shim your 96+ hub (I would just use a 93-95 hub).
Been there, done that.
OBDII crank hub assembly goes like this:
Pulley + crank hub + CPS reluctor gear + crank gear.
OBDI crank hub looks like this:
Pulley + crank hub + crank gear.
The OBDII crank hub is slightly shorter because it has to fit the CPS reluctor ring while keeping the same overall depth. There are two options...use a 93-95 hub or shim your 96+ hub (I would just use a 93-95 hub).
Been there, done that.
i guess i gotta find a OBDI crank hub to use now
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Sandhills of NC
I have a Cloyes 3145 on my '96 vette. After deleting the reluctor ring the hub is really close in length. I actually had to grind about 1/8 off the end to make the belt line up. Some have had clearance issues with the timing cover. Mine worked as is, no rubbing at all.
Although deleting the CPS has to be done I kind of miss it. It takes away a lot of the diagnostics of the OBDII. If I had to do it over I probably wouldn't. I'd just go with a good single roller chain.
Although deleting the CPS has to be done I kind of miss it. It takes away a lot of the diagnostics of the OBDII. If I had to do it over I probably wouldn't. I'd just go with a good single roller chain.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,143
Likes: 61
From: Little Rock, AR
Technically, no double roller or cam gear that has no teeth to drive the mechanical water pump will be shown to work on an LT1. But if you do the right mods, any SBC roller cam gear works. The 3145 is not spec'd to work on an LT1, either.
