rr's
 

hey guys. I am thinking of just doing some 1.6 rr's, probubly comp pro mags. How mush would i pick up without a cam?

i picked up 9rwhp

Don't forget you will need new valvesprings.

^^^ x2 valve springs are suggested... but you can run the rr's on stock springs, but at high rpm they will float and bind

I have 1.6 Crane Golds on mine with LT4 springs, they worked great. I picked up 2-3mph, some people pick up more mph and some pick up less.....Mine are for sale btw w/ springs

Why did you even bother posting?!

why are you the resident asshole?

I'm providing information to help the OP while you make it sound like coil bind and float are nothing to be of concern.

There are far bigger assholes on this forum other than me. Apparently you haven't been around long enough.

i as well as several people i know ran 1.6 on stock springs for years. It is SUGGESTED like stated by 31camaro. but is possible to run on stock. i had SA's for 2 years before my build now running NSA. if i had to do it over id start with NSA.

you can use a ls6 yellow spring with 1.7 rockers if your not planing on a cam swap anytime soon..if you are then just bite the bullet and get some comps,patriots or pacs.

an this time i would also say get a nsa rocker..

the 1.6 show around a gain of 9 or 10 on both sides and a 1.7 is another 9 or 10 a top of the 1.6's

heres the part numbers you need for a nsa deal

trick flow guide plates
tfs-30400623-8

arp 7/16th studs <- if you get 3/8th rockers then this will be wrong
134-7103

if you go with the ls6 yellow springs you will need these retainers
comp 787-16

then you will need a set of push rods unless your stock ones are harded already..some yrs came with harded push rods but always check

ive been around long enough to know there are more assholes than you. I ment that some people have had success with simply rr installs, if i made it sound like coil bind, and valve float are of no concern, then why would I add the effect of coil bind and valve float at the end of my sentence? I just wanted to inform the OP of other options, options that include people that have had success with stock springs and aftermarket rr's.

When I decided on putting the 1.6's on, I'd say 70% of the people said you must change springs and the rest either said it was optional or wasn't needed. For the little bit of money I spent on my LT4 springs, it was a smart decision. It gave me the peace of mind and I didn't have to wonder if and when my engine was going to destroy itself......So I suggest you take everyones opinions with a grain of salt and make your own decision, thats what i did.

I know i have to get springs and was planning on pushrods also, i just wanted to know if it would be worth the money to do it and what rockers to get. Just tryin to squeeze out as much as i can before i do a cam...if i do a cam. I'm getting back into downhill racing after a while off becuase of a wrecked hand

9-10 over the 1.6's? So your saying i could squeeze out 18-20ish more rwhp?

thats what i have gatherd..i would really say though probley a true 15rwhp though for sure..seeing dynos are diff and the conditions for weather and where they are all has to do with number resuilts.

im running the scorpion 1.7 7/16th..there is some 1.6 rockers on here or cz28 for sale..i seen them yesterday when searching for parts..

the scorpion part # is scp1026bl are the ones im running

The mod list in my sig works for me on my '93.

way back on the stock motor i used the crane golds for lt1 1.6 and left the stock springs and replaced the pushrods with a set of comps didnt have any floating issues till about 6800 but she was out of power that high anyway might be selling mine with pushrods if anyone is interested pm me there on the motor still and the motor is in the garage ill have to take them off but for op def worth it as a bolt on!

u pushed the rev limiter to 6800 on stock springs and 1.6s? lucky you didnt drop a valve. impressive lol

Joe is far from the name given, he and i have gone a few rounds before on this very same topic. He is setting an example on the proper way to add performance upgrades and there is nothing wrong with that!

Personally, i used to believe you HAD to change springs when 1.6s are added but after having a set on my bench i did some measuring,installed hight,actual coil bind etc. I found at this time that the factory roller cam is not aggressive enough to kill the factory spring especially when NOT exceeding 6100rpm.I have had my stainless 1.6s on the stock springs for 14 months driving everyday,racing as often as possible.....

NOW, i am not saying it is not a good idea to swap to a true PERFORMANCE orientated spring,retainer and lock kit!

The factory spring is 85lbs .500 max lift
Lt4 spring is 105lbs .525 max lift
Ls6 spring is 90lbs .551 max lift
The whole idea is valve control, if the valve spring is not adequate for the profile of the cam you will have trouble.

Take a look at these springs in a way that we really cannot see
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_Npz...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1...eature=related

man i always love them vids..