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i as well as several people i know ran 1.6 on stock springs for years. It is SUGGESTED like stated by 31camaro. but is possible to run on stock. i had SA's for 2 years before my build now running NSA. if i had to do it over id start with NSA.
you can use a ls6 yellow spring with 1.7 rockers if your not planing on a cam swap anytime soon..if you are then just bite the bullet and get some comps,patriots or pacs.
an this time i would also say get a nsa rocker..
the 1.6 show around a gain of 9 or 10 on both sides and a 1.7 is another 9 or 10 a top of the 1.6's
heres the part numbers you need for a nsa deal
trick flow guide plates
tfs-30400623-8
arp 7/16th studs <- if you get 3/8th rockers then this will be wrong
134-7103
if you go with the ls6 yellow springs you will need these retainers
comp 787-16
then you will need a set of push rods unless your stock ones are harded already..some yrs came with harded push rods but always check
an this time i would also say get a nsa rocker..
the 1.6 show around a gain of 9 or 10 on both sides and a 1.7 is another 9 or 10 a top of the 1.6's
heres the part numbers you need for a nsa deal
trick flow guide plates
tfs-30400623-8
arp 7/16th studs <- if you get 3/8th rockers then this will be wrong
134-7103
if you go with the ls6 yellow springs you will need these retainers
comp 787-16
then you will need a set of push rods unless your stock ones are harded already..some yrs came with harded push rods but always check
Last edited by suicidal racing; May 6, 2010 at 08:49 PM.
ive been around long enough to know there are more ******** than you. I ment that some people have had success with simply rr installs, if i made it sound like coil bind, and valve float are of no concern, then why would I add the effect of coil bind and valve float at the end of my sentence? I just wanted to inform the OP of other options, options that include people that have had success with stock springs and aftermarket rr's.
When I decided on putting the 1.6's on, I'd say 70% of the people said you must change springs and the rest either said it was optional or wasn't needed. For the little bit of money I spent on my LT4 springs, it was a smart decision. It gave me the peace of mind and I didn't have to wonder if and when my engine was going to destroy itself......So I suggest you take everyones opinions with a grain of salt and make your own decision, thats what i did.
I know i have to get springs and was planning on pushrods also, i just wanted to know if it would be worth the money to do it and what rockers to get. Just tryin to squeeze out as much as i can before i do a cam...if i do a cam. I'm getting back into downhill racing after a while off becuase of a wrecked hand
you can use a ls6 yellow spring with 1.7 rockers if your not planing on a cam swap anytime soon..if you are then just bite the bullet and get some comps,patriots or pacs.
an this time i would also say get a nsa rocker..
the 1.6 show around a gain of 9 or 10 on both sides and a 1.7 is another 9 or 10 a top of the 1.6's
heres the part numbers you need for a nsa deal
trick flow guide plates
tfs-30400623-8
arp 7/16th studs <- if you get 3/8th rockers then this will be wrong
134-7103
if you go with the ls6 yellow springs you will need these retainers
comp 787-16
then you will need a set of push rods unless your stock ones are harded already..some yrs came with harded push rods but always check
an this time i would also say get a nsa rocker..
the 1.6 show around a gain of 9 or 10 on both sides and a 1.7 is another 9 or 10 a top of the 1.6's
heres the part numbers you need for a nsa deal
trick flow guide plates
tfs-30400623-8
arp 7/16th studs <- if you get 3/8th rockers then this will be wrong
134-7103
if you go with the ls6 yellow springs you will need these retainers
comp 787-16
then you will need a set of push rods unless your stock ones are harded already..some yrs came with harded push rods but always check
thats what i have gatherd..i would really say though probley a true 15rwhp though for sure..seeing dynos are diff and the conditions for weather and where they are all has to do with number resuilts.
im running the scorpion 1.7 7/16th..there is some 1.6 rockers on here or cz28 for sale..i seen them yesterday when searching for parts..
the scorpion part # is scp1026bl are the ones im running
im running the scorpion 1.7 7/16th..there is some 1.6 rockers on here or cz28 for sale..i seen them yesterday when searching for parts..
the scorpion part # is scp1026bl are the ones im running
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 11
From: centerville, ohio
I know i have to get springs and was planning on pushrods also, i just wanted to know if it would be worth the money to do it and what rockers to get. Just tryin to squeeze out as much as i can before i do a cam...if i do a cam. I'm getting back into downhill racing after a while off becuase of a wrecked hand
way back on the stock motor i used the crane golds for lt1 1.6 and left the stock springs and replaced the pushrods with a set of comps didnt have any floating issues till about 6800 but she was out of power that high anyway might be selling mine with pushrods if anyone is interested pm me there on the motor still and the motor is in the garage ill have to take them off but for op def worth it as a bolt on!
Joe is far from the name given, he and i have gone a few rounds before on this very same topic. He is setting an example on the proper way to add performance upgrades and there is nothing wrong with that!
Personally, i used to believe you HAD to change springs when 1.6s are added but after having a set on my bench i did some measuring,installed hight,actual coil bind etc. I found at this time that the factory roller cam is not aggressive enough to kill the factory spring especially when NOT exceeding 6100rpm.I have had my stainless 1.6s on the stock springs for 14 months driving everyday,racing as often as possible.....
NOW, i am not saying it is not a good idea to swap to a true PERFORMANCE orientated spring,retainer and lock kit!
The factory spring is 85lbs .500 max lift
Lt4 spring is 105lbs .525 max lift
Ls6 spring is 90lbs .551 max lift
The whole idea is valve control, if the valve spring is not adequate for the profile of the cam you will have trouble.
Take a look at these springs in a way that we really cannot see
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_Npz...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1...eature=related
Personally, i used to believe you HAD to change springs when 1.6s are added but after having a set on my bench i did some measuring,installed hight,actual coil bind etc. I found at this time that the factory roller cam is not aggressive enough to kill the factory spring especially when NOT exceeding 6100rpm.I have had my stainless 1.6s on the stock springs for 14 months driving everyday,racing as often as possible.....
NOW, i am not saying it is not a good idea to swap to a true PERFORMANCE orientated spring,retainer and lock kit!
The factory spring is 85lbs .500 max lift
Lt4 spring is 105lbs .525 max lift
Ls6 spring is 90lbs .551 max lift
The whole idea is valve control, if the valve spring is not adequate for the profile of the cam you will have trouble.
Take a look at these springs in a way that we really cannot see
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_Npz...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1...eature=related