LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

More Intake Porn!

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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 06:56 PM
  #61  
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Wow that looks great. I love quality fabrication like that.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 12:48 AM
  #62  
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damn that sux I was actually considering this but would like to know how much power is left on the table over a stock one. ALso what H/C did you go with?
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 08:20 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by 1997 Z71
Any HP numbers? That setup is the best thing I've seen in a while.
Thanks!! Sorry, I'm going back and answering some replies I missed. Maybe you already saw this thread by now?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-numbers.html

It made 486/441 N/A and 701/709 on the 200 jets.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by robsquikz28
damn that sux I was actually considering this but would like to know how much power is left on the table over a stock one. ALso what H/C did you go with?
Heads are AFR 210 Eliminator Competition heads straight out of the box. Cam is a custom LE grind done specifically for my setup. Valve lift is north of .650 on both sides, duration around 250 @ .050 on a 112 LSA.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #65  
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Just got my intake back from LE and N/O. That is a VIC E and not a JR right? Im trying to decide what elbow to use without changing hoods or cutting mine. Also Im wondering how you ran the fuel lines and regulator.
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 01:34 AM
  #66  
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I love the way a single plane looks on these motors...
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 04:44 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
Just got my intake back from LE and N/O. That is a VIC E and not a JR right? Im trying to decide what elbow to use without changing hoods or cutting mine. Also Im wondering how you ran the fuel lines and regulator.
Yeah, it's a Vic E. Ray is using the Nitrous Outlet elbow with the factory WS6 hood but I don't know if he had to do anything to make it work. Mine is a Suncoast so that's not gonna help you.

Fuel lines are run in series: pump to goes to the back of the passenger fuel rail, front of the rails are looped together, back of the driver rail goes to the regulator, then regulator goes to the tank return line. I cut a hole under the clutch fluid reservoir to run the lines under the fender wells.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/4641940758/http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/4641940758/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/tx20d/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/4641318077/http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/4641318077/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/tx20d/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/4641931378/http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/4641931378/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/tx20d/, on Flickr
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #68  
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Awesome that was kinda my plan untill I saw Quick95s, & SDs. I really like the way you run it the best and its the cleanest. Any draw back to it? Cant understand why it wouldnt work as well as the other set ups on here.
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 05:03 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
Awesome that was kinda my plan untill I saw Quick95s, & SDs. I really like the way you run it the best and its the cleanest. Any draw back to it? Cant understand why it wouldnt work as well as the other set ups on here.
At my power level, I don't think there are any drawbacks or at least I haven't seen any. I've seen plenty of 700 - 1000 whp cars with aftermarket rails run in series.
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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Cool that is the route Im taking then. From your pics it looks like that elbow will clear the factory hood. Ed Wright Said the Wilson elbow will fit but I dont see that happening after seeing other pics.
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