LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

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Old May 18, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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So i have my block apart, Im honing the walls re-ringing it and replacing all bearings. Should i replace the rod bolts also? Its basically a cam/bolt on car. and i dont plan on revving it the **** out of it
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Old May 18, 2010 | 10:52 PM
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Absolutely...that's something you should certainly do. You're doing a cam install so in order to use that extra power you're still going to need to spin past factory.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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I would.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 11:10 PM
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Damn i dont think ill ever be done ordering parts. What can i spin it to since my vavletrain can take it. Whats the recommended ring gap?
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Old May 18, 2010 | 11:23 PM
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I have stock rod and main bolts, and have been spinnin my car to 8000 rpms and have not had a problem. got about 6k miles on it so far, had to put an oil pump in it recently and the bearings looked fine.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 11:30 PM
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I would like some more info on the stock rod bolt 8,000 rpm motor
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Old May 18, 2010 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by blkm6formula
I have stock rod and main bolts, and have been spinnin my car to 8000 rpms and have not had a problem. got about 6k miles on it so far, had to put an oil pump in it recently and the bearings looked fine.
aren't the pcms only good to 7200?
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Old May 18, 2010 | 11:48 PM
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yeah they go full retard at 7,200 he may have an aftermarket ecu or perhaps converted to carb but either explanation seems unlikely that someone would build an 8,000 rpm powerplant with stock rods
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Old May 19, 2010 | 12:01 AM
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What kind of setup do you have to spin to 8k RPMs?
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Old May 19, 2010 | 05:42 PM
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Why dont you take the time to explain what you have and what your planning to do.

If your going to rebuild the motor I would at least do a hone, re-ring, new bearings, ARP rod bolts. If you can afford to do more main support would be nice.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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All depends on funds you have to put into it. If you're getting new rod bolts, you may want to have them sized, just to make sure. Then technically you would want to have the whole assembly balanced as you're removing material from the rods. At this point you'd be better off getting stronger rods and having it balanced to go in. But why stop there and get a set of .030 over forged pistons. Then go ahead and get a stroker crank and add some cubes. Now you're at a 383/396. and for what? $2K more? Easy enough. I personally just assembled a stock block, re-ringed and tossed in new bearings....that is it. Block got a cleaning, hone, freeze plugs, and cam bearings. and added a stock volume oil pump. No new bolts aside from head bolts...which weren't really needed but safe insurance. I think you'll be fine with stock bolts. They aren't known for the same failures that the LSx has. SBC rod bolts have been reused dozens of times and spun just as hard as you'd want to spin a stock bottom end any way. I wouldn't worry about it for now....that's just my $.02
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Old May 19, 2010 | 07:06 PM
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Rofl.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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Im going to disregard slomaro. but thank you for your input.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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What do you want to know, its a 95 trans am, with a stock crank and rods, with ross pistons, slightly worked heads and an 847 cam. 3600 stall, 3.73 gears, and a built 4l.

Duh pretty much nailed it.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackBird87
Damn i dont think ill ever be done ordering parts. What can i spin it to since my vavletrain can take it. Whats the recommended ring gap?
20 top ring and 24 middle ring
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