Well the lifters are good and are being reused. They were in a car that ran well and now im putting them into another. I also adjusted the roller rockers.
Now do I have to start up the car and let it run to pump up the lifters AGAIN or not?

THe lifters were last used in october last year. So is the valve lash good to go or not?

thanks guys

 

When I put new lifters in my car I just got the rockers close enough to run then adjusted em with the engine running.

 

no the lifters do not have the be pumped up as your preload is set on the spring inside. I always soak them in oil for 20 minutes before installation but that has nothing to do with valve adjustment.

 

YOu should be good especially if they were already in a running car and now your using them and you already adjusted the rockers.

 

Me too!!

 

MOst people set them running, they find it easier

 

Just be careful when setting them as it's possible the the only load on the plunger is the spring which can make setting lash far trickier.

 

WEll i set the lifters already and im hoping to put the valve covers on and start it up with no worries. Should I reset them or not?

 

If you feel confident you found zero lash before start up then there's no reason to readjust them.

 

Easier, yes.....and quite a bit messier!


One thing to consider, especially if you're trying to set up the preload at some small increment like 1/8 turn, as the CompCams 875Rs require. Initially get the preload close, then let the engine fully warm up, then re-do them. With the aluminum heads and iron block, things warm up and expand at different rates, and it takes a while for everything to fully expand. Also, if you do a lot of your "mods" in the winter, while the car is off the road, as many of us "northerners" do, with the car quite cold, everything has "shrunken".

I had the 875Rs in my car for a while, and it was tricky getting them adjusted properly. It took several attempts before I was able to get them right, and as amazing as it sounds, having the engine fully warmed up (as well as being patient) was one of the keys in their proper adjustment. I don't drive the car in the winter, however I'll start the car and let it warm up 2-3 times during the off-season. I don't like leaving tension on half the valve springs for that long. Anyway, the 875s, even when propely adjusted, would be quite loud until the car warmed up....

 

fire it up see what it sounds like let it start throwing oil a little
if your questioning yourself take the 30 min it takes and redo them since the covers are already off, but the odds are they will be ok

 

Actually it's just the opposite if you consider the most often recommended method. Adjusting lifter preload with the engine running is out-dated "Old School" and if you check you'll find that virtually all the cam companies and engine builders no longer recommend that procedure.

You'll find that the IC/EO method is the procedure now recommended in the magazines, cam company catalogs and engine build up articles. More than 40 years ago the adjust while idling method' was the recommended method but no longer. Of course, some things die hard.

Times change and so do recommended procedures once a better method is found. In fact, I regularly set mine with the engine on the engine stand, bolt on the valve covers and install the engine, never having to touch the lifter preload again.

Jake

 

I wouldn't say it's better. More like there are fewer today who understand how to do so and there is far more legal/liability issues companies run into therefore it is far better to recommend a method that is damn near idiot proof. When adjusting valves with hydraulic lifters it's not rocket science. Any of the methods work just fine and if all are done correctly, yield the same results.

 

We could quibble over the use of the word "better" but why waste the time. To me, common sense says if the #1 cam company - CompCams - changes its recommendation from, say, "twisting the pushrod until slight resistance is felt" to a different method "move the pushrod UP and DOWN", there must be a reason. Common sense also tells me they would not change an existing recommendation to one that is worse/not as good/fill in the blank than the previously recommended method.


Some methods are clearly "better" than others even though any of them may give the same result. I could prepare and post here a listing of the different ways to properly adjust lifter preload, or degree-in a camshaft or the amount of preload that should be used. Industry R&D, feed-back from reputable engine builders, magazine editors, camshaft companies most often either specifically identify which method is better or by their continued use of a specific method indicate so.

Take as a recent example the dyno results of seven different camshafts in the same engine featured in Engine Masters. The results, in a couple of cases, fly in the face of what so many post here and on other Forums; that longer duration cams are needed to reach "X" amount of power. A guy running a HotCam is often told he needs more (longer duration) cam to reach his power goal, yet the dyno tells a different story.

Forum members can substitute another word for the word "better" should they choose, but hopefully they won't get lost in the meaning being conveyed.

No need to continue an extended back and forth on this. Suffice to say I always try to pass along the most often recommended, and yes, better way. In addition, I try to remain prepared to support my posts by having my sources available to cite rather than making unsupported claims.

Jake

 

I understand you and yes Its I would the best way as well but 90% of people have no idea what eoic even means and no what to do. SO thats why we tell them to do it running.

 

Which you've failed to do so in this thread. You've offered your opinion as have I. No biggie. It's of my opinion there is no better way to adjust a hydraulic valvetrain. They all work, they all have worked and they will continue to work as long as the tool behind the tool understands the concepts of each. As stated, it's not rocket science. Does that need the support of some article by Comp Cams or can that pretty much stand out alone as fact?

 

Very FUkn true ^ lol

 

i've always set mine with the motor running, seems pretty easy and accurate to me. It eliminates that whole problem of finding zero lash on a non running engine.

 

People love to overcomplicate this **** far more than it needs to be.

 

im not saying i disagree with your statement one way or another but companies often change recommended ways of doing things becuase of lawsuits or the fear of lawsuits.

someone at comp cams looks at it and goes ahh this isnt a good idea to recommend to customers to stick there hands near a running engine and have oil leak down on to hot manifolds in a garage while unlike but could catch fire.

on the other hand you adjust them on a non running engine and not much can happen.