New Dyno Tune But .....
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Joined: Oct 2007
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Sorry,I mean the springs LE heads come with,cranes. I had a very good guy set it up. I ran 2 tt's & 4 rounds in today a little better air,but not much, 12.79@106.3,,12.76@106.1,,12.74@109.9,,12.81@106.1,,12.72@107.1 & 12.71@107.1..DA 2962 Mechanically car seems sound. Stock TB too small ? Gears ? Tires ? Not surre where to look right now.
So your car runs pretty much 106.1-107.1 on all of the runs and then on the bolded one it runs a 109.9? I'm confused here. It should be consistent with an auto. That DA still sucks. Go out in some cooler air (50 degree) and you'll knock .2-.3 off of that. Yes your car could benefit from a bigger tb. I'd get a Summit 58mm one for $250ish. For the gears you'd have to tell us what rpm you are crossing the finish line at. You want to be in 3rd above 6000rpm, more likely 6500rpm or so. That will give you enough cushion to make some improvements to lower your et and still have enough gear to run. If you are crossing the line at say 6grand in 3rd, your car can easily use more gear in back or a smaller diameter tire. Keep in mind that noone expects their cars to run killer numbers right off the bat. It takes time to dial a car in and figure out what it wants. I chased stupid little nagging problems with my car and eventually dropped a full second without so much as touching a valve cover. All the little things add up. I found a semi-stuck brake caliper, crappy front end alignment, tweaked the tune numerous times, etc, etc..
How do you stage the car? For the lowest possible ET, you want to BARELY light the stage bulb. This will give you 8" of rollout before you start the et clocks. Might not sound like a lot but every bit helps. Basically it gives your car a split second of momentum before the timer starts. How much tire pressure do you run in the front? How much gas is in the car? Any crap in the trunk? Pay attention to all of the details and the ET will start to drop. Pretty soon the car will be running mid-12's in the heat, and then in the fall you'll get your low 12. When is the last time you checked your tranny fluid?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Portage Pa.
So your car runs pretty much 106.1-107.1 on all of the runs and then on the bolded one it runs a 109.9? I'm confused here. It should be consistent with an auto. That DA still sucks. Go out in some cooler air (50 degree) and you'll knock .2-.3 off of that. Yes your car could benefit from a bigger tb. I'd get a Summit 58mm one for $250ish. For the gears you'd have to tell us what rpm you are crossing the finish line at. You want to be in 3rd above 6000rpm, more likely 6500rpm or so. That will give you enough cushion to make some improvements to lower your et and still have enough gear to run. If you are crossing the line at say 6grand in 3rd, your car can easily use more gear in back or a smaller diameter tire. Keep in mind that noone expects their cars to run killer numbers right off the bat. It takes time to dial a car in and figure out what it wants. I chased stupid little nagging problems with my car and eventually dropped a full second without so much as touching a valve cover. All the little things add up. I found a semi-stuck brake caliper, crappy front end alignment, tweaked the tune numerous times, etc, etc..
How do you stage the car? For the lowest possible ET, you want to BARELY light the stage bulb. This will give you 8" of rollout before you start the et clocks. Might not sound like a lot but every bit helps. Basically it gives your car a split second of momentum before the timer starts. How much tire pressure do you run in the front? How much gas is in the car? Any crap in the trunk? Pay attention to all of the details and the ET will start to drop. Pretty soon the car will be running mid-12's in the heat, and then in the fall you'll get your low 12. When is the last time you checked your tranny fluid?
How do you stage the car? For the lowest possible ET, you want to BARELY light the stage bulb. This will give you 8" of rollout before you start the et clocks. Might not sound like a lot but every bit helps. Basically it gives your car a split second of momentum before the timer starts. How much tire pressure do you run in the front? How much gas is in the car? Any crap in the trunk? Pay attention to all of the details and the ET will start to drop. Pretty soon the car will be running mid-12's in the heat, and then in the fall you'll get your low 12. When is the last time you checked your tranny fluid?
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Report back here with the video!
Thread Starter
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From: Portage Pa.
What rear tires are you running? I'd like to see an in-car video of one of your runs. I would pay VERY close attention to the 1-2 shift. Does the car hang-up around 6000rpm for a second and then shift or does it shift really fast? Same thing on the 2-3 shift. 4L60E's are notorious for poor shifting. Having it rebuilt by a local tranny shop that doesn't specialize in them doesn't make it any better. Try to get a video of the car doing a launch and then a hard 1-2 shift. Have a friend film it with the camera pointed directly at the tachometer the entire time. Do it on a back road if you can get some traction.
Report back here with the video!
Report back here with the video!
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Something doesn't add up to me, which is why I keep asking about the tranny and the shifting. Your car is making 400hp at the wheels. You are running it in an f-bod. Even in 3100DA it should be running good times. Brakes are locked up, front tires are toed out, wheel bearings are smoked, rear end bearings are toast, etc, etc, something isn't right with the chassis/drivetrain that you have the motor bolted in to.
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From: Portage Pa.
Car has never trapped good,bone stock best of 3 runs was 14.6@96.5 with 2.73s and it did not go to 3rd till I was thru the traps.
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From: Portage Pa.
xs lol
Something doesn't add up to me, which is why I keep asking about the tranny and the shifting. Your car is making 400hp at the wheels. You are running it in an f-bod. Even in 3100DA it should be running good times. Brakes are locked up, front tires are toed out, wheel bearings are smoked, rear end bearings are toast, etc, etc, something isn't right with the chassis/drivetrain that you have the motor bolted in to.
Something doesn't add up to me, which is why I keep asking about the tranny and the shifting. Your car is making 400hp at the wheels. You are running it in an f-bod. Even in 3100DA it should be running good times. Brakes are locked up, front tires are toed out, wheel bearings are smoked, rear end bearings are toast, etc, etc, something isn't right with the chassis/drivetrain that you have the motor bolted in to.
start with bigger TB, bigger inj, new plug wires and have the tuner have another go with it. Get some data logs from his tune and post them up so we can see the AFG's, Knock retard, A/F ratio, l/r O2's & BLM's at every RPM and check fuel pressure to see if it is losing presure at high RPM.
The graph has a VERY strange TQ curve and especially for starting around 4000 RPM unless that is where ne hailed it at. It would be nice for him to nail it around 2000 RPM and keep it in 3rd gear for the pull to get a better feel of what the TQ curve really looks like.
Should definitely be closer to 12.1-11.6 (depending on 60 ft) @ 116-117 MPH thru the auto trans/stall with the heads/cam.
The graph has a VERY strange TQ curve and especially for starting around 4000 RPM unless that is where ne hailed it at. It would be nice for him to nail it around 2000 RPM and keep it in 3rd gear for the pull to get a better feel of what the TQ curve really looks like.
Should definitely be closer to 12.1-11.6 (depending on 60 ft) @ 116-117 MPH thru the auto trans/stall with the heads/cam.
Thread Starter
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From: Portage Pa.
start with bigger TB, bigger inj, new plug wires and have the tuner have another go with it. Get some data logs from his tune and post them up so we can see the AFG's, Knock retard, A/F ratio, l/r O2's & BLM's at every RPM and check fuel pressure to see if it is losing presure at high RPM.
The graph has a VERY strange TQ curve and especially for starting around 4000 RPM unless that is where ne hailed it at. It would be nice for him to nail it around 2000 RPM and keep it in 3rd gear for the pull to get a better feel of what the TQ curve really looks like.
Should definitely be closer to 12.1-11.6 (depending on 60 ft) @ 116-117 MPH thru the auto trans/stall with the heads/cam.
The graph has a VERY strange TQ curve and especially for starting around 4000 RPM unless that is where ne hailed it at. It would be nice for him to nail it around 2000 RPM and keep it in 3rd gear for the pull to get a better feel of what the TQ curve really looks like.
Should definitely be closer to 12.1-11.6 (depending on 60 ft) @ 116-117 MPH thru the auto trans/stall with the heads/cam.
Thread Starter
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From: Portage Pa.
Little update,,Talked with tuner yesterday said ther is some more in the tune.A friend's brother has a summit 58mm TB that he took of a 96 before he sold the car,said its fine & I cam put it on to try. Going to to put TB on,check a couple things then get it back to tuner. Tuner w/dyno is only 25 miles away, no charge for updates & he"s willing to work at it so I think we'll get it worked out. And converter was locked for dyno run & A/F is 12.15
Dave
Dave
Little update,,Talked with tuner yesterday said ther is some more in the tune.A friend's brother has a summit 58mm TB that he took of a 96 before he sold the car,said its fine & I cam put it on to try. Going to to put TB on,check a couple things then get it back to tuner. Tuner w/dyno is only 25 miles away, no charge for updates & he"s willing to work at it so I think we'll get it worked out. And converter was locked for dyno run & A/F is 12.15
Dave
Dave
nah, no fax but post them here or in tuning section with a link in this post.
e mail them to me if you want but I have not been able to open those attachments since my last computer crash a few months back.
Lloyd
e mail them to me if you want but I have not been able to open those attachments since my last computer crash a few months back.
Lloyd
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From: Portage Pa.
dave