--> I really really hate optis...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...g-episode.html
I put the new opti on. I cranked for the car for a second before installing water pump. Idled it about 20 minutes last night as I filled up the radiator. It had a couple of misses but nothing sounding bad. Tonight, I refilled the radiator and cranked her up to go for a road test. Let it idle for about 5 minutes while I checked for leaks. Then it died...tried to restart immediately but it just turned over. Tried again an hour later, still no start.
At this point, frustration level is high and my hand is itching for the lighter and gas can.
I checked everything I knew to check on this ****....even the opti venting and dowel length. The opti I installed is a lifetime warranty Advance Auto unit. I sure don't enjoy the idea of taking that sumbench apart again.
Anyway, I'm taking suggestions on the next course of action.
Oh, and thanks for listening....
Coil resistance check for obvious failure here:
http://shbox.com/1/coil_testing.jpg
And see if the ICM ground is good, with a buddy's help with the cranking part of the test:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test
And last (or maybe first) check the ignition fuse.

Could be other things, but see where your spark is first...
The 4 long wp bolts got a dose of black silicone. The other 2 didnt....
i know its expensive but i find it a good practice to replace all ignition components once you replace something on high millage cars.
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After seeing your information about the optis, I don't think they are the problem. Your first opti didn't seem to have any obvious serious problems, the second is new and it still doesn't run. I believe it is either the coil or the ICM, both inexpensive parts and it wouldn't hurt to change both.
You may end up wishing later that you did a different opti but I don't think this one is your immediate cause. If you take it for a stroll, you'll definitely know if you crossed 2 plug wires. I did it last time around with #4 & #6. Discovered that error right away.

edit: your tuner would likely have spotted weak/erratic spark while tuning if you had an ICM on the way out.
If nothing else obvious presents itself, take it for a near-distance drive for 15-20 minutes on surface streets and see if you can elicit an SES light.
If nothing else obvious presents itself, take it for a near-distance drive for 15-20 minutes on surface streets and see if you can elicit an SES light.
At least the car is running. Can you locate which cylinder is popping? Check the wires, then check for a cracked/damaged spark plug, possibly due to the initial backfire. Check for any vacuum leaks, especially the EGR system because if it's supposed to be blocked off and it isn't you will be lean and backfiring. You should be pulling a steady 17-22 inches testing with a vacuum gauge (directly off the manifold) perhaps a little less if you have a big cam.






