Ok i'm in the progress of trying to figure out everything I need to get to datalog my car. I know I need the cable for my laptop to hook up to my car. But what programs should I get? So far I herd of getting CATS, Scanmaster, Datamaster. I'm new to this so any help would be great!

 

Before getting too far into this I would call where you got the tune and ask if any adjustments were made to the knock module sensitivity. If nothing was done in the tune (i would do it either way anyway) get the LT4 knock module. If timing is being pulled in high rpm I would say that is the problem. The stock knock module will sense knock from simple bolt-ons like long tube headers or roller rockers. A cam will for sure cause knock. Try that and post results. Mine was only $35 from the dealership. It has been worth every penny.

 

You dont need the LT4 module. It wont be near as effective as the AR gets re-adjusted, again, so long as it is NOT real KR. Either way, both methods seldom will save your motor, if it is real.

 

No offense but if the stock KM is too sensitive for bolt-ons why would you want to keep it on a cammed motor? I had knock retard with just long tubes. The LT4 KM was my only change (no additional tuning or anything) and problem solved. I ran a 12.9 shortly after fixing this (13.4 before). Anyone can say what they feel is right but others may have luck on something that seems dumb. Again, no harm intended in this post. I'm just stating what works for me.

 

Ok that makes sense I'm going to email madz28 about my tune. Do you guys really think that KR could cause me to loose about a sec or more in the 1/4??

 

Yes. It is your timing. Timing plays a major role in how well the combustion is used. EFI lets you ride the timing much closer to real knock. (this is the point when the knock sensor backs off timing if real knock happens)
Real knock is when the charge ignites on the upstroke of the piston. (BAD) AKA pre ignition

There are 2 reasons you would have knock retard
1. Real knock
2. False knock

All of this is achieved by a small microphone (knock sensor) that is on the side of the engine.

This info is then processed by the knock module. (2 types)
1. LT1 knock module
2. LT4 knock module (less sensitive)

If you have a exhaust leak, tapping, really noisy rockers etc, you can have false knock.

The range of the sensor should be adjusted by computer programming, along with timing, but the only real way to not do this blindly is by taking a log of the engine parameters.

 

None take'n! People run what ever floats there boat, cammed or not. Thats why there is disparity between all F-body's performances. Some people know tuning and others dont. Recovery (AR) is more crutial to others at the track then others. I just prefer to re-work the tune (KR), which will yield better performance much more than the module. The aforementioned is only relegated to a properly running engine without actual KR. KR properties are very destructive to engine parts, here the module will work well, especially for ordinary street cars, cammed and all. All others who want that all-out performance, will work this out through their tune! That's all, chief!

 

I actually had my girlfriend take my car to get tuned last time so I have never seen the info on the tune. If it will help anyone I'm sure I can make a call and find out.

 

Well while I'm waiting for the my tuning software to come in. Anyone else have an idea what could be going on?

 

See if your tuner can send you a copy of your tunes bin file. Then you can send me a copy to review. Scanning your Z will clue you in immediately. Your Z does sound like it's still out of tune. Was your tune mail order (generic)? or dyno-celled specific?

 

Well I just sent ion an email about my car so hopefully he writes back soon. The tune was from MadZ28 which was a mail in tune

 

This is what ion sent me "Did you check your fuel pressure at full throttle? Is it constant at 43.5 PSI? This is a major power loss, so it could be related to transmission slip still or lack of adequate fuel pressure."

My question is whats the best way to check the fuel pressure at full throttle??

 

you need a fuel pressure gauge. it screws on at the back of the intake. There is a shraeder valve. It looks just like the air valve on a tire. you can get one from autozone.

 

I know that, but how do you check it at full throttle without having to tape it to the hood and drive around with it?lol

 

Mechanical gauge in your car or your method.

 

check out shoeboxs website. it has it in there somewhere. You have to remove a vacuum line or something and that simulates full throttle.

 

Well I finally got a chance to datalog my car and this what I got. Not sure if I did this right it hat my 1st time doing this. Any help would be great.
Both runs were done on the street with street tires.

 

Anyone??

 

....basic parameters, not what you need however, though I see nothing standing out. I need actual run-file for fueling, timing, engine load, KR, temp., MAF, etc! Create freeze frame option during open and close loop, then save file. Reformat, then post!

 

I'm sorry if i sound dumb but how do i get a run-file? I'm using freescan do I need a different program?