383 almost done - How to properly break it in?
383 almost done - How to properly break it in? First off let me say this is my first ever engine build, and I am stoked to get this thing fired up . How do you properly break in a new or rebuilt engine? After all this time and money I want to make sure I don't screw it up!
Some details about the car....
93 z28 - Rebuilt Street/Strip trans, Eagle 383 stroker build, CC306 cam, keith black pistons, ported lt1 heads, ported lt4 intake, air delete, egr delete, long tube headers 3" true duals w/ spintech race mufflers, MSD pro billet optipark coil and wires, autolite plugs, 160 degree tstat, walbro 255lph, Metco adjustable FPR, Meziere HD waterpump, ect....
I'll be getting a tune from Solomon loaded up before I crank it for the first time. The engine has been built and has had oil in it for the last year. I think there is 10w30 in it. Is it bad to have oil sit that long in a never-been-fired engine? Is that viscosity of oil ok? Any info on good products/methods of breaking it in? Thanks in advance guys
Some details about the car....
93 z28 - Rebuilt Street/Strip trans, Eagle 383 stroker build, CC306 cam, keith black pistons, ported lt1 heads, ported lt4 intake, air delete, egr delete, long tube headers 3" true duals w/ spintech race mufflers, MSD pro billet optipark coil and wires, autolite plugs, 160 degree tstat, walbro 255lph, Metco adjustable FPR, Meziere HD waterpump, ect....
I'll be getting a tune from Solomon loaded up before I crank it for the first time. The engine has been built and has had oil in it for the last year. I think there is 10w30 in it. Is it bad to have oil sit that long in a never-been-fired engine? Is that viscosity of oil ok? Any info on good products/methods of breaking it in? Thanks in advance guys
If this is a fresh rebuild with 0 miles on it, your best bet is to run it like you normally would. In other words, run it hard. Let it idle for a short while (1 minutes) to check for good oil pressure, then go out driving. Do several 1/2 to 3/4 throttle blasts keeping the RPMs up. After 20 miles or so, change the oil, then go beat the **** out of it.
The worst thing you can do is be gentle on it. The rings only get one chance to seat.
The worst thing you can do is be gentle on it. The rings only get one chance to seat.
If this is a fresh rebuild with 0 miles on it, your best bet is to run it like you normally would. In other words, run it hard. Let it idle for a short while (1 minutes) to check for good oil pressure, then go out driving. Do several 1/2 to 3/4 throttle blasts keeping the RPMs up. After 20 miles or so, change the oil, then go beat the **** out of it.
The worst thing you can do is be gentle on it. The rings only get one chance to seat.
The worst thing you can do is be gentle on it. The rings only get one chance to seat.
Yeah i drove mine to the gas station took it home let it idle for about 15 minutes to check for leaks then I took it out and beat the hell out of it. And its ran perfect ever since
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I ran rotella 10-40 at first. I fired it it up, let it idle for a minute or so checked for leaks, varried the idle from idle to 3000 rpm for a few minutes. The I went and beat on it 1/2-3/4 throttle (varried speeds for different loads) for 50 miles or so. Changed oil and Have beat it ever since.
Good luck! Have fun.
Good luck! Have fun.
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you will spend some time bleeding the coolant system and checking for leaks during initial start up. once you do get on the road accelerate to 3500 rpm and then use your lower gears to decellerate. this loads the engine up/down and helps set the rings. do this a few times increaseing to 4500 rpm as you do it a few times.
change oil and filter and just drive after that...hard
change oil and filter and just drive after that...hard
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If this is a fresh rebuild with 0 miles on it, your best bet is to run it like you normally would. In other words, run it hard. Let it idle for a short while (1 minutes) to check for good oil pressure, then go out driving. Do several 1/2 to 3/4 throttle blasts keeping the RPMs up. After 20 miles or so, change the oil, then go beat the **** out of it.
The worst thing you can do is be gentle on it. The rings only get one chance to seat.
The worst thing you can do is be gentle on it. The rings only get one chance to seat.
I think I'm going to buy 2 bottles of Comp 159 additive, do the initial break in, change the oil w/ additive, drive for 500-1000 ish miles, then change the oil again. Will it be safe to run a synthetic after that? I was going to go Mobil 1 5w30.
The heads were done along with a 3 angle valve job by the master engine builder at NAPA. It was his last engine before he retired.
The heads were done along with a 3 angle valve job by the master engine builder at NAPA. It was his last engine before he retired.
I think I'm going to buy 2 bottles of Comp 159 additive, do the initial break in, change the oil w/ additive, drive for 500-1000 ish miles, then change the oil again. Will it be safe to run a synthetic after that? I was going to go Mobil 1 5w30.
The heads were done along with a 3 angle valve job by the master engine builder at NAPA. It was his last engine before he retired.
The heads were done along with a 3 angle valve job by the master engine builder at NAPA. It was his last engine before he retired.
The heads don't sound very promising to be honest. Were they ported at all?
As for the oil change I meant do the initial break in, change the oil, then drive it for like 500 miles, change the oil again, drive it 1000 miles, then switch to synthetic.
It's my understanding he hand ported them and took out as much metal as possible. Idk only the dyno will tell.
As for the oil change I meant do the initial break in, change the oil, then drive it for like 500 miles, change the oil again, drive it 1000 miles, then switch to synthetic.
As for the oil change I meant do the initial break in, change the oil, then drive it for like 500 miles, change the oil again, drive it 1000 miles, then switch to synthetic.
Your oil change procedure sounds good. Good luck!
LT1 heads do not respond well to old school porting. Old school was "take out as much metal as possible", modern heads respond better to finesse. Far as the valve job what do you think the stock one was???
A local guy had an LT1 rebuilt by a "good" local builder, afterwards I ran into a parts wanted ad of his and began trying to help him get the car together, the " good" old school builder has dropped compression into the high 8s, put a cast Eagle crank in it, put new stainless valves in the untouched heads, the thing is harder to turn over by hand t without plugs than mine is with over 230psi of cranking compression plugs in.
The fact a NAPA builder so old he retired did this is just one more reason to be worried about performance of the thing NOT a reason to be confident.
Enough dude I don't need you bashing my car which you've never even seen before with every post. I have enough to worry about, like just getting it started. Help is appreciated, but you can keep the snide comments to yourself.
Just like you assumed the crank was cast, it's actually forged. And to you MSD pro billet opti's are junk. They're not. They are as good if not better than OEM. The CC306 is still a good cam. Not as good as a custom grind, but still good. This will be a good build. I'm 20 and this is my first motor man, lay off a little.
Just like you assumed the crank was cast, it's actually forged. And to you MSD pro billet opti's are junk. They're not. They are as good if not better than OEM. The CC306 is still a good cam. Not as good as a custom grind, but still good. This will be a good build. I'm 20 and this is my first motor man, lay off a little.