head gasket tips
Best thing to do is to pick up a Factory Service Manual or a Haynes Manual, and read read read. Both of those provide all of the small details you may not be able to find on the forums.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Keyser WV
Head gaskets Just put new head gaskets on my 96 formula, i recomend having the heads reconditiond, new head bolts, and i used a set of Felpro LT4 permatork gaskets for the heads, they seal great! You will need a degree gauge for your tork wrench as the head bolts get degreed not torked. Very extensive job though, took a lot of time. You will def need a service manual such as a Haynes or Chilton, you can get the Haynes from Advance auto. Good luck!!
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: Kempner, TX
All mating surfaces must be CLEAN, DRY and FREE OF ANY OIL, OLD SEALANT, ETC.
Don't rely on the head bolts to pull down the heads onto the block. If the dowel pins prevent the head(s) from sitting flat on the block, do what's needed to make the head(s) sit flush on the block.
Head bolts must have thread sealant applied to the the threads. I use Permatex #2; others have their own favorite sealant.
Use washers under the heads of all the bolts. Be sure to correctly install the washers on the bolts.
Follow the torque sequence shown in the manuals and use at LEAST three steps to torque the the bolts. I use four steps. After all are torqued, go over all of them one more time to verify the torque and that none of the bolts was missed.
Use a steady pull when torquing; steady and even. NO SUDDEN JERKY PULLS ON THE WRENCH.
Don't use a cheap torque wrench - buy or borrow a GOOD, calibrated one if necessary. Steer clear of the beam type; the ones with the long needle. I like the dial' type best and the 'Click' type next.'
New ARP bolts aren't essential, but are definitely a good idea. I'd say buy them if your budget allows.
You can continue to use the lb/ft torque procedure if you choose. The "new" (angle)procedure, in my view, is now being recommended to address the differences in torque wrenches and to provide more accurate clamping force as a result.
If you're using larger than stock springs, you may have to remove a couple of them to get the clearance need to torque a couple of the head bolts - no biggie.
I'm not sure if any of this is what you were looking for. Hope it helps.
Jake
Don't rely on the head bolts to pull down the heads onto the block. If the dowel pins prevent the head(s) from sitting flat on the block, do what's needed to make the head(s) sit flush on the block.
Head bolts must have thread sealant applied to the the threads. I use Permatex #2; others have their own favorite sealant.
Use washers under the heads of all the bolts. Be sure to correctly install the washers on the bolts.
Follow the torque sequence shown in the manuals and use at LEAST three steps to torque the the bolts. I use four steps. After all are torqued, go over all of them one more time to verify the torque and that none of the bolts was missed.
Use a steady pull when torquing; steady and even. NO SUDDEN JERKY PULLS ON THE WRENCH.
Don't use a cheap torque wrench - buy or borrow a GOOD, calibrated one if necessary. Steer clear of the beam type; the ones with the long needle. I like the dial' type best and the 'Click' type next.'
New ARP bolts aren't essential, but are definitely a good idea. I'd say buy them if your budget allows.
You can continue to use the lb/ft torque procedure if you choose. The "new" (angle)procedure, in my view, is now being recommended to address the differences in torque wrenches and to provide more accurate clamping force as a result.
If you're using larger than stock springs, you may have to remove a couple of them to get the clearance need to torque a couple of the head bolts - no biggie.
I'm not sure if any of this is what you were looking for. Hope it helps.
Jake
