Valve spring change getting the best of me...
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From: Macclenny Florida
Valve spring change getting the best of me... Ok its official!! Changing Valve springs SUCKS!!
I Bought "Tim's Tool" I have been using the rope and TDC method...
Every time I go to compress the spring the valve goes with it..
I can not get the Keepers to separate for the life of me..
I have read all kinds of stuff...Tap the retainer with a mallet, Put a socket over the retainer and tap it with a hammer, Take a small socket and hit the keeper itself...
I have tried everything and have only managed to get 1 spring off... They are dual springs
Someone give me some insight!! Or just come do it..lol
I Bought "Tim's Tool" I have been using the rope and TDC method...
Every time I go to compress the spring the valve goes with it..
I can not get the Keepers to separate for the life of me..
I have read all kinds of stuff...Tap the retainer with a mallet, Put a socket over the retainer and tap it with a hammer, Take a small socket and hit the keeper itself...
I have tried everything and have only managed to get 1 spring off... They are dual springs
Someone give me some insight!! Or just come do it..lol
I hope you have a cyl. leakdown tool in the heads to prevent the valves from dropping in the bore? Yes you need to hit the springs before you put the tool on and while the tool is on. They should come apart with finess.
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From: Macclenny Florida
Matt
I see no reason at all to use rope or air. I think it unnecessarily complicates the process.
Go to shbox's website and get a diagram of what cyls are at TDC at what point in the rotation. You can use the crank hub pointer if it has not been changed from factory alignment, or you can see just use the firing order and you will know which cyl is at TDC next after the one you're currently working on.
Make sure you're completely at TDC with the cylinder you're working on and you should be good to go. A sharp whack will release the old retainers, and the new one should go in just fine this way.
The valve does drop a tiny bit even at true TDC but the tims tool will compress even my patriot dual springs enough to get it on the valve...
Go to shbox's website and get a diagram of what cyls are at TDC at what point in the rotation. You can use the crank hub pointer if it has not been changed from factory alignment, or you can see just use the firing order and you will know which cyl is at TDC next after the one you're currently working on.
Make sure you're completely at TDC with the cylinder you're working on and you should be good to go. A sharp whack will release the old retainers, and the new one should go in just fine this way.
The valve does drop a tiny bit even at true TDC but the tims tool will compress even my patriot dual springs enough to get it on the valve...
Thread Starter
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From: Macclenny Florida
I see no reason at all to use rope or air. I think it unnecessarily complicates the process.
Go to shbox's website and get a diagram of what cyls are at TDC at what point in the rotation. You can use the crank hub pointer if it has not been changed from factory alignment, or you can see just use the firing order and you will know which cyl is at TDC next after the one you're currently working on.
Make sure you're completely at TDC with the cylinder you're working on and you should be good to go. A sharp whack will release the old retainers, and the new one should go in just fine this way.
The valve does drop a tiny bit even at true TDC but the tims tool will compress even my patriot dual springs enough to get it on the valve...
Go to shbox's website and get a diagram of what cyls are at TDC at what point in the rotation. You can use the crank hub pointer if it has not been changed from factory alignment, or you can see just use the firing order and you will know which cyl is at TDC next after the one you're currently working on.
Make sure you're completely at TDC with the cylinder you're working on and you should be good to go. A sharp whack will release the old retainers, and the new one should go in just fine this way.
The valve does drop a tiny bit even at true TDC but the tims tool will compress even my patriot dual springs enough to get it on the valve...
Gregbob.....when do you usually give it a sharp wack? before you put the Tim's tool on or after you have it compressed??
About halfway compressed with the tims tool. You would want to be careful about having it all the way compressed, then whacking it as you could push the valve into the piston a little too hard. Putting some pressure on it with the tool though, and then whacking it should release the retainers, then tighten the tool on down enough to suck them out with a magnet.
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if they're not separating easily the valvetrain was NOT controlled. bouncing, floating, or whatever you want to call it. I guess that's a good sign for your problem hopefully getting solved. If you're going to BFH your valves or retainers do it with the spring NOT compressed.
If it's taking A LOT of force to get them to pop, to where you need to BFH them, dont compress the tool very much at all.
I compressed mine a few turns, and a sharp whack with a socket and something to lightly hit it with popped them loose.
If yours are harder than that, like I said be careful about smacking the valve into the piston.
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From: Macclenny Florida
About halfway compressed with the tims tool. You would want to be careful about having it all the way compressed, then whacking it as you could push the valve into the piston a little too hard. Putting some pressure on it with the tool though, and then whacking it should release the retainers, then tighten the tool on down enough to suck them out with a magnet.
Thanks
if they're not separating easily the valvetrain was NOT controlled. bouncing, floating, or whatever you want to call it. I guess that's a good sign for your problem hopefully getting solved. If you're going to BFH your valves or retainers do it with the spring NOT compressed.
Thanks everyone!!
Matt
It is nearly impossible to drop the valve completely out of the guide and into the cylinder. The piston would have to be a BDC for this to happen and I am still not convinced it would even happen then. I have had the valve fall down into the guide and a magnetic retrieve or turning the crank brings it right back up so dont freak out if it happens.
As it has been said above. As long as the piston is rather close to TDC, the spring can be changed and no other methods of holding the valve up are needed.
Best tool for spring chages.
Old Crane dual spring compressor hands down. Makes for very easy work.
As it has been said above. As long as the piston is rather close to TDC, the spring can be changed and no other methods of holding the valve up are needed.
Best tool for spring chages.
Old Crane dual spring compressor hands down. Makes for very easy work.
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From: Macclenny Florida
Thanks again! will do!
ok thanks!
Thanks for the tips! im gonna grab a cold drink and turn the radio on and just take my time through it...I have to re-shim all of the too..
I already bought the Tim's tool but if i ever buy another one i will keep that in mind!
Thanks!
It is nearly impossible to drop the valve completely out of the guide and into the cylinder. The piston would have to be a BDC for this to happen and I am still not convinced it would even happen then. I have had the valve fall down into the guide and a magnetic retrieve or turning the crank brings it right back up so dont freak out if it happens.
As it has been said above. As long as the piston is rather close to TDC, the spring can be changed and no other methods of holding the valve up are needed.
Best tool for spring chages.
Old Crane dual spring compressor hands down. Makes for very easy work.
As it has been said above. As long as the piston is rather close to TDC, the spring can be changed and no other methods of holding the valve up are needed.
Best tool for spring chages.
Old Crane dual spring compressor hands down. Makes for very easy work.
I already bought the Tim's tool but if i ever buy another one i will keep that in mind!
Thanks!
It is actually not possible for the valve to drop completely out. The valve stem is something like 5" long (forget off the top of my head) and there is only 3.48" of stroke. That doesn't mean you want to let one go though. 
