LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

procharger on a stock lt1

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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 06:21 PM
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Default procharger on a stock lt1

Okay so i'm thinking about slapping a procharger on my bolt ons only lt1(mods in the sig) with a good tune and some bigger injectors of course

my question is, will this hurt anything, i.e. is the motor strong enough to handle a procharger on stock heads, cam, and bottom end?
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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yea as long as u keep the boost low and get a good tune.
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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im saying like 6-8 psi, enough to give me a decent amount of power but still very streetable that doesnt completely destroy mpg, what about the tranny, its a 700r4 btw
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 06:54 PM
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8psi is a lot for a stock shortblock. I would try to get some bigger heads and thicker gaskets to bring down the compression a bit. It will last much longer and you will be able to some what "safely" run more boost.

Normally I see no point in a stock blown LT1 because you cant pulley it down enough for any big power gain(most blown lt1's are 400-425rw) when you can make that same power with heads and a cam. And be 1000% more reliable, but if you can get the compression down to 9.1 or 9.5.1 it would be another story.

Also the tune will be key.
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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the new issue of gmhtp magazine has a guy with a bolt on only lt1 running 9 psi with a procharger d1sc. it says he's going 10's and the only internal change in the motor was valve springs and rocker arms. he said the heads and intake has never been off the motor. stock cam too!
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by nickp
the new issue of gmhtp magazine has a guy with a bolt on only lt1 running 9 psi with a procharger d1sc. it says he's going 10's and the only internal change in the motor was valve springs and rocker arms. he said the heads and intake has never been off the motor. stock cam too!
this one? http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...ed-Formula.htm
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by nickp
the new issue of gmhtp magazine has a guy with a bolt on only lt1 running 9 psi with a procharger d1sc. it says he's going 10's and the only internal change in the motor was valve springs and rocker arms. he said the heads and intake has never been off the motor. stock cam too!
That's an extremely low mileage LT1 tho. I'm not convinced it will last incrediably long with that setup.
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 08:21 PM
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well from what i have been seeing, i can get a lloyd elliott heads and cam set up with most of the things i need for like 2k and i can get my tranny rebuilt and get a stall for abt 1k so i would be in for about 3 grand and have what should amount to around 400 to the wheels reliably, which seems like a better deal anyway
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 08:22 PM
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unless i find a blower for dirt cheap that is
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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You wont be disapointed and you can reuse those LE2 or 3 heads on a forged 383 build later. It is a good investment and a good stepping stone. You will expose all the weak links before you get the S/C. Build the bottom end to be ready for boost and it will be a monster once you slap the S/C on there. You can also have all the fun of opti problems and end up going with a EFI 24x system and ditch the tempermental opti once and forever. lol
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Tolley's94z28
well from what i have been seeing, i can get a lloyd elliott heads and cam set up with most of the things i need for like 2k and i can get my tranny rebuilt and get a stall for abt 1k so i would be in for about 3 grand and have what should amount to around 400 to the wheels reliably, which seems like a better deal anyway
umm my stall cost 750... its not something i would cheap out on
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 86formula
umm my stall cost 750... its not something i would cheap out on
Yeah and my rebuild kit was 550 and I'm not putting that in myself. I don't know where this guy is getting his trans rebuilt for 300 bucks but I don't want in.
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 12:02 AM
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Its called E-85. Know it, Use it, Love it. I dont see 10#s being a problem with a bolt on car with some corn. Its detonation that kills these motors or any motor for that matter. Get the tune nailed dow and it should live for long time. If your stock shortblock breaks go get another one for $500.
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 04:17 PM
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ya well good luck -- I started with a P1SC at 6 psi and had it dynoed (much more is needed, good opti, etc to get it dialed in)
with tune and extra's needed it costed my around $1500 and the motor lasted 600 miles before my head gasket blew.

car only has 50,000 miles --I have now forged and re-did entire engine (I'm am at about $14,000 into engine)

boost is awesome, but be prepared to spend the money and time!!!
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 04:21 PM
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i think i have changed my mind, im more of an n/a kinda guy anyway, and from what im reading, a good h/c car will give me good numbers/track times, and sound damn good while doing it lol
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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If you search you will see that nearly everybody who has boosted an LT1 with stock (10.5:1) or higher compression was made a believer that its bad AFTER they blew their motor up. You cant reliably boost that high of a compression ratio. Gotta go dish pistons with stock heads or aftermarket heads with bigger CC compression chambers to make it worth while.

I remember the old fox body 302 with 9 to 1 CR. You could bolt the Paxton on and rip **** up. Not in LT1 land though. Listen to these guys and do a head and cam which is equal to low poundage of boost. Or go all out but be prepared to spend some bucks.

The car in the article is seriously living on borrowed time or their is some going on.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
The car in the article is seriously living on borrowed time or their is some going on.
Nothing going on. LOL I actually considered pulling the pan last year to fix the rear seal that is leaking some oil(pretty common on forced induction combos), but will go with a vacuum pump and see if it picks up any HP. Haven't pulled the pan yet and the pump will usually solve the pushing oil problem. Have we been lucky with this car....probably, but I am pretty **** on pre-flighting this before we run it. It has been racing for 7yrs(with supercharger), a shitload of dyno time, and the only problem was a tensioner pulley on the supercharger took a dump...slung the belt...and wiped out the wiring to the fans. And all of this was while running 12.0:1 AFR across the board. Bob usually sends customer cars out at 11.5:1 or little less.

Keys to success. Keeping things fresh....plugs, fuel, changing fuel filters, etc. I have run Torco "Accelerator" boost additive thru the years, even dynoed year old stuff to find it does go bad. Year old Accelerator caused spark knock and loss of 30hp, the thing cut out like plugs flaming out.

After talking to Diamond piston several years ago, learned that a top killer of pistons is pre-detonation from oil. And when you are talking forced induction, that can be the same issue with my oil leak and that is oil rings getting short on life and pressure from the bottom pushing oil up....and the oil creates a heck of a hot spot. Hence another reason I am looking to a vacuum pump.

All in all no complaints with the Procharger on this. But actually quite tired and bored of having the stock engine in this (glad GMHTP called this year for an article) because a new block is in the garage. Not to mention the sound of this cam just sucks.

Jon

Sorry for hijacking thread!
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95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be

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