I need more: Cam Swap +
I need more: Cam Swap + The bug has been getting to me, so I'm doing a mild cam and different heads.
Here's my list of things to get:
4 LT1 Cylinder Head Coolant Tube Seal
2 LT1 Valve Cover Gasket
2 LT1 Water Pump Gasket
2 LT1/LT4 Cylinder Head Gasket, .028" Thickness
1 LT4 Intake Gasket
1 LT1 Throttle Body Gasket, Fits 48 & 52mm
1 LT1 Timing Cover Gasket
1 LT1 Crank Seal
1 LT1 Driven Gear Seal
1 LT1 Distributor Seal, 1995-1997
All from Thunder Racing is about: $255
I plan to get a new timing chain. Which one I haven't decided on.
I have a lower mile opti to put back on and am having trouble getting new plug wires, so I guess I'll just use stock.
It may be leaking from the rear main also. suggestions?
If I missed anything, let me know. I'd like to do this before winter.
Thanks!
Mods: Non-dyno tune, Long tubes, LSx intake, 3.42's.
120,xxx Miles of DD
Here's my list of things to get:
4 LT1 Cylinder Head Coolant Tube Seal
2 LT1 Valve Cover Gasket
2 LT1 Water Pump Gasket
2 LT1/LT4 Cylinder Head Gasket, .028" Thickness
1 LT4 Intake Gasket
1 LT1 Throttle Body Gasket, Fits 48 & 52mm
1 LT1 Timing Cover Gasket
1 LT1 Crank Seal
1 LT1 Driven Gear Seal
1 LT1 Distributor Seal, 1995-1997
All from Thunder Racing is about: $255
I plan to get a new timing chain. Which one I haven't decided on.
I have a lower mile opti to put back on and am having trouble getting new plug wires, so I guess I'll just use stock.
It may be leaking from the rear main also. suggestions?
If I missed anything, let me know. I'd like to do this before winter.
Thanks!
Mods: Non-dyno tune, Long tubes, LSx intake, 3.42's.
120,xxx Miles of DD
The bug has been getting to me, so I'm doing a mild cam and different heads.
Here's my list of things to get:
4 LT1 Cylinder Head Coolant Tube Seal
2 LT1 Valve Cover Gasket
2 LT1 Water Pump Gasket
2 LT1/LT4 Cylinder Head Gasket, .028" Thickness
1 LT4 Intake Gasket
1 LT1 Throttle Body Gasket, Fits 48 & 52mm
1 LT1 Timing Cover Gasket
1 LT1 Crank Seal
1 LT1 Driven Gear Seal
1 LT1 Distributor Seal, 1995-1997
All from Thunder Racing is about: $255
I plan to get a new timing chain. Which one I haven't decided on.
I have a lower mile opti to put back on and am having trouble getting new plug wires, so I guess I'll just use stock.
It may be leaking from the rear main also. suggestions?
If I missed anything, let me know. I'd like to do this before winter.
Thanks!
Mods: Non-dyno tune, Long tubes, LSx intake, 3.42's.
120,xxx Miles of DD
Here's my list of things to get:
4 LT1 Cylinder Head Coolant Tube Seal
2 LT1 Valve Cover Gasket
2 LT1 Water Pump Gasket
2 LT1/LT4 Cylinder Head Gasket, .028" Thickness
1 LT4 Intake Gasket
1 LT1 Throttle Body Gasket, Fits 48 & 52mm
1 LT1 Timing Cover Gasket
1 LT1 Crank Seal
1 LT1 Driven Gear Seal
1 LT1 Distributor Seal, 1995-1997
All from Thunder Racing is about: $255
I plan to get a new timing chain. Which one I haven't decided on.
I have a lower mile opti to put back on and am having trouble getting new plug wires, so I guess I'll just use stock.
It may be leaking from the rear main also. suggestions?
If I missed anything, let me know. I'd like to do this before winter.
Thanks!
Mods: Non-dyno tune, Long tubes, LSx intake, 3.42's.
120,xxx Miles of DD
You should have no problems finding plug wires. MSD makes a set specifically for LT1 cars, and they are on the TR website (along with Summit, Jegs, etc.).
Also, what cam (and heads) are you going with? The rockers, springs, etc. are of far more concern than plug wires and gaskets at this point.
Doing the rear main requires removal of the transmission. Look on the back top of the engine. It is far more common to have the classic intake manifold leak.
For the timing chain I'd go with a new stock set (change the sprockets too).
You should have no problems finding plug wires. MSD makes a set specifically for LT1 cars, and they are on the TR website (along with Summit, Jegs, etc.).
Also, what cam (and heads) are you going with? The rockers, springs, etc. are of far more concern than plug wires and gaskets at this point.
Doing the rear main requires removal of the transmission. Look on the back top of the engine. It is far more common to have the classic intake manifold leak.
You should have no problems finding plug wires. MSD makes a set specifically for LT1 cars, and they are on the TR website (along with Summit, Jegs, etc.).
Also, what cam (and heads) are you going with? The rockers, springs, etc. are of far more concern than plug wires and gaskets at this point.
Doing the rear main requires removal of the transmission. Look on the back top of the engine. It is far more common to have the classic intake manifold leak.
GM 1.6 roller rockers with poly locks, 218,224 545,555 112 lsa, 600 lift springs, stock push rods. The heads are stock with some mild valve work.
As far as the wires, I was trying to get ones made to mount on the side of the valve covers. I just don't have the time to measure them for Nate. Was also going to do the coil at the same time. Both MSD
I've been told another stock chain set would be good too. And as far as the leak... the whole motor is covered in oil haha. I don't doubt the intake being the culprit.
I guess that would be good to mention!
GM 1.6 roller rockers with poly locks, 218,224 545,555 112 lsa, 600 lift springs, stock push rods. The heads are stock with some mild valve work.
As far as the wires, I was trying to get ones made to mount on the side of the valve covers. I just don't have the time to measure them for Nate. Was also going to do the coil at the same time. Both MSD
I've been told another stock chain set would be good too. And as far as the leak... the whole motor is covered in oil haha. I don't doubt the intake being the culprit.
GM 1.6 roller rockers with poly locks, 218,224 545,555 112 lsa, 600 lift springs, stock push rods. The heads are stock with some mild valve work.
As far as the wires, I was trying to get ones made to mount on the side of the valve covers. I just don't have the time to measure them for Nate. Was also going to do the coil at the same time. Both MSD
I've been told another stock chain set would be good too. And as far as the leak... the whole motor is covered in oil haha. I don't doubt the intake being the culprit.
Are you using self-aligning or non self-aligning rockers? NSA rockers provide some pretty nice advantages over the SA counterparts for marginally more $$$. Additionally, don't assume the stock length pushrods will work, especially if you are having the heads done. The best thing to do in this situation is to use a pushrod length checking tool, once everything is together, then order the correct length rods.
MSD coil is a good investment too. I've been running one for 10 years.
Make sure you replace the stock chain AND sprockets. They wear together.
The oil leak will be most easily tracked down using a dye kit. Clean everything up the best you can and see where the oil is coming from.
Oh I suppose I should also state that this head/cam setup has been used for 7,000miles already from someone I know well.
I'll have to ask about the rockers. I'm willing to bet they are SA.
How about miscellaneous parts like bolts?
I think I'll just take your advice and uses stock length MSD.
I'll have to ask about the rockers. I'm willing to bet they are SA.
How about miscellaneous parts like bolts?
I think I'll just take your advice and uses stock length MSD.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: Kempner, TX
Yes they can be re-used. They are not Torque To Yield bolts. No L98 or LT1/4 engine came from the factory with TTY head bolts.
Just because the torquing procedure was changed does not mean the bolts, themselves, are Torque To Yield.
Jake
Just because the torquing procedure was changed does not mean the bolts, themselves, are Torque To Yield.
Jake
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IMO, OTVC (or side covers) look tacky and are a pain in the ***, what with having to measure, cut, and crimp everything. I would go with MSD wires routed in the stock locations.
Are you using self-aligning or non self-aligning rockers? NSA rockers provide some pretty nice advantages over the SA counterparts for marginally more $$$. Additionally, don't assume the stock length pushrods will work, especially if you are having the heads done. The best thing to do in this situation is to use a pushrod length checking tool, once everything is together, then order the correct length rods.
MSD coil is a good investment too. I've been running one for 10 years.
Make sure you replace the stock chain AND sprockets. They wear together.
The oil leak will be most easily tracked down using a dye kit. Clean everything up the best you can and see where the oil is coming from.
Are you using self-aligning or non self-aligning rockers? NSA rockers provide some pretty nice advantages over the SA counterparts for marginally more $$$. Additionally, don't assume the stock length pushrods will work, especially if you are having the heads done. The best thing to do in this situation is to use a pushrod length checking tool, once everything is together, then order the correct length rods.
MSD coil is a good investment too. I've been running one for 10 years.
Make sure you replace the stock chain AND sprockets. They wear together.
The oil leak will be most easily tracked down using a dye kit. Clean everything up the best you can and see where the oil is coming from.
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Brett Foote I hated my OTVC wires too, which is why I ditched them. The MSDs fit pretty well, but I should note that I did not use the factory looms and used aftermarket wire separators. Some people drill out the factory looms to get them to fit, from what I understand.
Sounds good, I went ahead and ordered a set of MSD's today.
Ordered MSD wires today. About to order a few other parts too. Can I re-use the head bolts then? That's $60-70 I could use elsewhere.
My opti decided it is going to start misfiring on me. So I'm forced to do the cam swap at the same time.
My opti decided it is going to start misfiring on me. So I'm forced to do the cam swap at the same time.
If i were you id look into cc306/gm847. On stock heads its not reccomended, but it works, but ported heads that breath way better, it would be perfect and retain more driveability then you think. You could also do a custom cam.
Im just saying, if your gonna do heads, you should do a larger cam then that. You might kick yourself down the road throwing that cam in it.
EDIT: besides, if the bug hit you now, imagine what itll do if your not satisfied with this work haha.
Im just saying, if your gonna do heads, you should do a larger cam then that. You might kick yourself down the road throwing that cam in it.
EDIT: besides, if the bug hit you now, imagine what itll do if your not satisfied with this work haha.
Just buy new. I had a factory head bolt snap off in the block and yes i would have rather spend the 70 for a new set.
If i were you id look into cc306/gm847. On stock heads its not reccomended, but it works, but ported heads that breath way better, it would be perfect and retain more driveability then you think. You could also do a custom cam.
Im just saying, if your gonna do heads, you should do a larger cam then that. You might kick yourself down the road throwing that cam in it.
EDIT: besides, if the bug hit you now, imagine what itll do if your not satisfied with this work haha.
Im just saying, if your gonna do heads, you should do a larger cam then that. You might kick yourself down the road throwing that cam in it.
EDIT: besides, if the bug hit you now, imagine what itll do if your not satisfied with this work haha.
Changing the heads also lets me see the condition of the rest of the motor while it is apart.
Thanks for the P/N for the head bolts!
