Building motor... need HELP!!!
For horsepower i think 400 would be achievable with a good set of heads and a cam. Ideally i would like it to be around 425-450 without N2o. I would like this car to run mid to low 11s on motor and push into the high 10s on N2o. Do you guys think this is a realistic goal? Also Im going to go with a new crank cause i had a od bearing go on the stock motor and by the time it was ground it wouldnt be much of a difference. Ok you said i need to decide on a piston first so im thinking a -5cc piston. What do you think on this choice? And i am currently looking at the LE2 heads.
Ok well im doing the 355. As for parts im thinking forged flat top pistons with aftermarket cast rods and crank from eagle or scat. Then the LE2 heads and a cam from LE as well. I think this should put me close to my goal of 425hp without spray with a good tune. What do you guys think of this set up???
Stock crank (buy one from someone on here)
Eagle SIR rods or Scat(come with arp hardware)
Any good Forged piston (JE, Ross, etc)
Get everything balanced
AI or Lloyd Elliot heads cam combo
should easily be 100 shot away from 10 sec pass.....
Of course with all the proper supporting mods.... suspension, bolt ons, tires, tranny...etc
Eagle SIR rods or Scat(come with arp hardware)
Any good Forged piston (JE, Ross, etc)
Get everything balanced
AI or Lloyd Elliot heads cam combo
should easily be 100 shot away from 10 sec pass.....
Of course with all the proper supporting mods.... suspension, bolt ons, tires, tranny...etc
Ok the problem i am running into is eagles i beams are rated at 400hp and so then i step up to h beams and have to get them as a full forged rotating assembly unless i piece it together and it doesnt make sense to pay to have my stock crank underground for what a new cast one costs. Then if i go to scat they want me to run a full forged assembly as well but the price is 400 more than the eagle assembly. I might just have to run a full forged rotating assembly.
You are underestimating the strength of the stock crank. Most aftermarket cast cranks are nowhere near as strong as the stocker. Having it reconditioned is well worth the money. It is a sound investment. There's no reason you can't run a stock crank, forged I-beam and a forged piston, buying the parts seperately.
AI sells exactly what you're looking for in a rotating assembly. Check it out.
AI sells exactly what you're looking for in a rotating assembly. Check it out.
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Verdad Gallardo Ok i checked out AI and they are selling the compstar h beams but either way not a big deal. My stock crank has to be ground since i had a rod bearing go on me. So I would have to pay for my crank to be ground and then for my rotating assembly to be balanced. By the time i do this i could buy the Eagle forged rotating assembly for $1500. So in the long run i dont think it will save me any money to keep my stock crank.
It's all going to have to be balanced anyway, regardless of the crank you use. To recondition a stock crank shouldn't be more than $200.
Trust me when I say it's been done before (time and time again) and this method is a very cost-effective solution.
Trust me when I say it's been done before (time and time again) and this method is a very cost-effective solution.
Yea or you can buy a stock crank from someone on here for a good price too..
I also think you are under estimating how strong the SIR I beams are... We ran them in a 383 solid roller motor hitting it with a 200 shot off the trans brake for 2 years...that was 3 years ago and the motor is still running fine...
balancing is a MUST no matter what setup you chose...even if it is suppose to come balanced it needs to be re checked....
I was told by Ellwein engines when i built my motor that if you are not running splay caps you want the lightest possible rotating assembly so i beams are better for this than H beams...
My setup is
Ross forged pistons
Eagle Sir Rods
Eagle crank (my stock crank staked a bearing and lathed the crank about a half inch and I got a great deal on the eagle)
ARP Main Studs
line hone and good balancing.
This was for a 400rwhp motor with an occasional 100-150 shot
I also think you are under estimating how strong the SIR I beams are... We ran them in a 383 solid roller motor hitting it with a 200 shot off the trans brake for 2 years...that was 3 years ago and the motor is still running fine...
balancing is a MUST no matter what setup you chose...even if it is suppose to come balanced it needs to be re checked....
I was told by Ellwein engines when i built my motor that if you are not running splay caps you want the lightest possible rotating assembly so i beams are better for this than H beams...
My setup is
Ross forged pistons
Eagle Sir Rods
Eagle crank (my stock crank staked a bearing and lathed the crank about a half inch and I got a great deal on the eagle)
ARP Main Studs
line hone and good balancing.
This was for a 400rwhp motor with an occasional 100-150 shot
On The Tree
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV..but originally from Oregon!!
Stock crank (buy one from someone on here)
Eagle SIR rods or Scat(come with arp hardware)
Any good Forged piston (JE, Ross, etc)
Get everything balanced
AI or Lloyd Elliot heads cam combo
Of course with all the proper supporting mods.... suspension, bolt ons, tires, tranny...etc
Eagle SIR rods or Scat(come with arp hardware)
Any good Forged piston (JE, Ross, etc)
Get everything balanced
AI or Lloyd Elliot heads cam combo
Of course with all the proper supporting mods.... suspension, bolt ons, tires, tranny...etc
and It'll be built for less using a local shop that builds PSCA motors for less than a cast crank shortblock from clayton or golen..
Ok Ill go with you guys and undergrind my stock crank or look for a good one. Then Eagle SIR rods and a good set of forged pistons for .30 over. As for heads and cam I am leaning towards AI possibly the 200cc.
On The Tree
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV..but originally from Oregon!!
