LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

True roller timing set

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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 04:01 PM
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LadyDriven's Avatar
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Default True roller timing set

My builder has requested I find him a true roller timing set, with at least 3 crank keyways for my LT1 385 build. Only problem is the local parts store is telling me there is no true roller timing set that's adjustable. What is everybody else running? This is my first build, and I keep running into problems!

Thanks,

Amanda
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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not many sets to choose from really with the opti in there. im still trying to figure out what im going with. ill probably go with the LT4 HD
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 04:39 PM
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This is where you step in to tell your builder that there is no point in running an adjustable timing set with an LT1 where the ignition timing is controlled via the PCM (unless you are running a dizzy/carb setup). May I recommend the Cloyes 3145 double roller, if you are converting to an electric water pump?
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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or a 3146
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
This is where you step in to tell your builder that there is no point in running an adjustable timing set with an LT1 where the ignition timing is controlled via the PCM (unless you are running a dizzy/carb setup). May I recommend the Cloyes 3145 double roller, if you are converting to an electric water pump?
Since when has there been no advantage to getting a cam degreed in correctly? If there was no advantage to advancing or retarding a cam there never would have been a timing set made that allowed it. As for the timing being off a degree or two because of advancing or retarding the cam that is easy to fix once the engine is running and on the dyno getting tuned.

To the OP
1. If your engine builder cannot figure out something as simple as this you
might want to shop elsewere
With that said

2. IF you are running a electric water pump. Get a Cloyes timing chain for a SBC with a factory roller cam. Then press the gear off of the water pump drive shaft (its the gear that normally runs off the back of the cam gear on a factory type setup). Then reinstall the shaft as you normally would. Everything should clear as I have never seen one hit but double check it first. This solves 2 problems at once as you now have a adjustable timing set to allow you to get your cam degreed in where you want it and it takes care of the hole in the timing cover without having to rig it up with a freeze plug and jb weld or some other combination to keep it from leaking.

If you are not running a electric water pump I would be suprised but if so I think the only choices are a regular replacement part or the LT4 setup but you wont be able to degree your cam in with them as they come you will have to modify them to use degree bushings. And with all that hastle to do that I think you will find it easier to switch to the electric pump.

Last edited by Doughboy692; Oct 21, 2010 at 08:56 PM. Reason: changed valve to timing, and tried to clairify a couple of things
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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If you are running an electric water pump here ya go. The one on the left is the correct timing chain set for the LT1.
Scoggin Dickey SDCS1090, nitraded, double roller. The one on the right, SDCS1040 is wrong.
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 07:13 PM
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FYI, forgot to add that the Rollmaster above is 1 lb lighter than the stock LT1 timing chain set and a hell of a lot stronger.
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