lt1 intake manifold bolts / studs
lt1 intake manifold bolts / studs I just bought a long block 383 to replace the original motor that is in my car. I also got a ported intake for it, but don't have any bolts. I know the originals have studs in some places and bolts in others.
Does anyone know what the specs are for these bolts and studs? I would imagine they are things I can just get a the hardware store, but have no idea what they are. I also need whatever bolt sizes are to hold on the throttle body and egr stuff as I would like to put on my newer larger throttle body and block off plates and not have to use the bolts currently on the motor
Does anyone know what the specs are for these bolts and studs? I would imagine they are things I can just get a the hardware store, but have no idea what they are. I also need whatever bolt sizes are to hold on the throttle body and egr stuff as I would like to put on my newer larger throttle body and block off plates and not have to use the bolts currently on the motor
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 420
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From: Kempner, TX
ARP and others sell the intake bolts as a kit. So you can log onto Summit, track down the bolt kit and the sizes should be listed. I know they're 3/8" coarse (18?).
As far as the studs, depends on the year and car as to where they're installed - 'Y' bodies and 'F' bodies are different in that respect too. Studs are probably going to be harder to find though.
Another thing to remember is the lengths matter; just a little too long and the tips of the bolts can hit the pushrods.
When I have a Representative bolt I just take it with me to the hardware store and match it up. That way I can go chrome, black, gold or what ever. Sometimes, as with studs, I've cleaned and spray painted them in order to better match the other bolts.
Then there's the heads of the bolts to consider. Depending on the intake you're running, some intake bolt holes could be very close to an obstruction. A bolt with a 9/16" head might not work because of socket won't clear. In cases like that you can go with Allen or Torx head bolts to give you that little extra clearance you need.
Anti-Seize the threads on all bolts that screw into aluminum too.
Hope this helps.
Jake
As far as the studs, depends on the year and car as to where they're installed - 'Y' bodies and 'F' bodies are different in that respect too. Studs are probably going to be harder to find though.
Another thing to remember is the lengths matter; just a little too long and the tips of the bolts can hit the pushrods.
When I have a Representative bolt I just take it with me to the hardware store and match it up. That way I can go chrome, black, gold or what ever. Sometimes, as with studs, I've cleaned and spray painted them in order to better match the other bolts.
Then there's the heads of the bolts to consider. Depending on the intake you're running, some intake bolt holes could be very close to an obstruction. A bolt with a 9/16" head might not work because of socket won't clear. In cases like that you can go with Allen or Torx head bolts to give you that little extra clearance you need.
Anti-Seize the threads on all bolts that screw into aluminum too.
Hope this helps.
Jake
